An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner
I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape.
Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely?
Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it.
The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list.
This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai.
I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint.
Each Itinerary is a day-wise plan, to help you make a personal choice of which places you want to see and those you would like to skip. It's practical, convenient and designed to cover India on your own terms and pace.
💡 Clicking on the blue link🔗 takes you to the related post.
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The most populated and vibrant city in India; you will need more than a few days. This itinerary is designed keeping in mind the challenges in commuting from one place to another. You could stretch this plan to 20 days allowing at least 2 days for rest. If you wish to know more about 🔗Mumbai - its origins and history,
South Mumbai skyline
Disclaimer-
Starting my journey from Mumbai was a personal choice. You too are free to make your own personal decision and choices depending on your conveniences.
The 🔗Itinerary for Mumbai itself is broken down area-wise to help you pick out- all 'or' any area that suits the time you have at hand.
2- Mumbai to Goa coastal road trip - 15 days
🔗Mumbai to Goa coastal route seriesis an adventurous 'no hurry' leisure journey along the west coast of India- starting from Mumbai and ending in Goa. Whether it is going to be 15 or 20 days depends on your will-power to resist staying longer on some of the less frequented gorgeous beaches of the Konkan coast, or continue your journey ahead.
a ferry crossing on my Mumbai to Goa coastal trip
Which is the best place to start for a first-timer to India?
3- Go GOA, Keep it Simple
If you are a foreigner and this is your first time in India, Goa and South India is the perfect place to start; giving you more time to get acclimatised, before moving on to the sights, sounds and chaos of North India.
Along a coastline of 7500 km, what makes it special isn’t just its laid-back beaches, but a chilled out lifestyle and unique goan hospitality. After 450 years of colonial rule, the Portuguese finally left Goa in 1961, leaving a legacy of lavish baroque renaissance style churches and old portuguese homes. The 70’s brought in the hippie culture. Fascinated by the beaches of Anjuna, Vagator and Baga, they lived their lives among the locals for a good many years. Goa still holds its charm with tourists to this date.
sunset at Anjuna beach, Goa
The best way to cover Goa is by breaking the itinerary into 3 parts :
The Western ghats (Sahyadri range) that runs north to south, traversing the Indian states of Gujarat, Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamilnadu covers an area of 160,000 km2 (62,000 sq mi) and runs parallel to, and separates the plateau from the western coast of India. Even UNESCO has stated that the Western ghats to be older than the Himalayas.
Chikmagalur, Karnataka
4- Karnataka (Coastal +Western Ghats)
Karnataka is a big state. There's so much to do here- from beaches to trekking the western ghats, to seeking solace and peace at its important spiritual sites. But it's not possible to pick and visit places at random. And that is the purpose of a well-planned itinerary- to help you achieve more, in the easiest and most practical way.
Stay options : Except Gokarna, all other places until Mangalore you can find typical hotel rooms in the range of 600rs and above.
Vidyasankara temple, Sringeri Karnataka
If spirituality is what you seek, then this region called Tulunadu has at least 🔗10 holiest placesyou can visit.
The Western ghats is quite popular with trekkers, especially from cities like Bangalore and Mysore. Some treks I could do with the help of professional trek organisers (found on facebook) are 🔗Kodachadri trek- 2 days
Kerala is a beautiful state of India stretching from the south of Mangalore, Karnataka till almost the tip of India Kanyakumari. Tourism is the main economy which explains the tourist-friendly attitude of the people.
Kochi, Alleppey, Varkala and Kovalam are among the top tourist-friendly destinations in Kerala. It's easy to find a wide range of accommodations that know their art. From high-end luxury hotels to resorts with swimming-pools and in-house restaurants, to guest houses that offer private rooms. Many of these have great locations overlooking the sea, which is good value for money.
my guest house overlooking the sea at Fort Kochi, Kerala
The most appealing option for a budget backpacker however, are the many classy but affordable backpacker hostels. They all provide free WiFi. Some even provide continental breakfast every morning.
The hottest months in India are March-April-May just before the monsoons, with temperatures soaring to as high as 44 to 50 ℃ in some parts of the country and average at 35 ℃. Global warming and climatic conditions have made summers worse with each passing year.
Most schools and colleges across the country close for summer vacations. Families make elaborate plans to spend their well-earned holidays at a hill station- There's packing to be done, snacks and drinks to be stacked for the road, loo breaks and dhaba stopovers before reaching the final destination. This is peak holiday season with hotels, tour operators and all the rest can finally make it all worth their while.
If you are a leisure traveller who hates crowds, and would like to keep the cost low, Feb - March is the perfect time to head to the hills.
The hill stations of 🔗Ooty ~ Coonoor (5 days vacay) in the Nilgiris are popular and synonymous with holiday, so expect crowds. If you love treks/ hikes, 🔗trekking the Kotagiri hills will take you through scenic tea and coffee plantations. (see pic above.
Far from mindless modern construction, dirty alleyways and ugly hoardings; life in the jungle is unadulterated. I did a real forest hike and an 🔗adventurous 3 days in the jungles of Mudumalai before moving north to the 🔗City of Royals: Mysore (6 days). The holiday season was now at its peak, so Lina, my gracious and kind friend from Mysore suggested I stay back at her place. That was an excellent decision as I had a great deal to catch up on, besides many other 🔗short trips from Mysore (3 months).
Which are the best cities to find work in South India?
Whether it is manufacturing, industry or white-collared IT sector jobs~ both Bangalore (Karnataka) & Chennai (Tamil nadu) tops the list as the cities with the most job opportunities and highest payscale. While Bangalore leads in the field of IT in India as a whole, Chennai (Tamil nadu) and Hyderabad (Telangana) are not too far behind.
7(i)- Bangalore the IT capital of India
Despite covid pandemic the 'think out of the box' Information Technology (IT) sector has proved its mettle and bounced back. Infosys, Wipro, TCS, Accenture, Oracle, IBM are a few names of the top MNC / IT companies in Bangalore.
Whether you are an experienced professional or just starting out. The city has something for everyone. Bangalore's mixed, cosmopolitan workforce are much less locals and a far greater floating migrant population from other parts of Karnataka and India.
Except for the hills of Tamilnadu, the rest part of this coastal state is HoT 🔥 throughout the year. Dec to Jan however offers some respite from the sweltering heat.
Tamilnadu's capital city has held the imagination of the world for centuries. A confluence of ancient temples, traditional values, the coast and a bustling metropolis that it is today, Forbes Top 10 has listed Chennai among one of the fastest growing cities in the world.
CHENNAI is a confluence of ancient temples, traditional values, the coast and a bustling metropolis
Many among us who walk along the paths of life, prefer to forsake the 'greater good' in pursuit of materialistic goals and self-gratification. The Journey of Spirituality is picking up the values of morality, decency, reasoning, love, understanding and compassion discarded by those who walked along this road, and making these your own.
We set out on a journey to the temple towns of TamilNadu. Our journey is broken into 2 routes in order to make the best use of time, a bit of leisure and gain as much spiritual experience.
Note~ All temples are closed during afternoons. So plan your visits during mornings and evenings, leaving the afternoon for meals and relaxation.
What to wear~
Most temples have a dress code. No shorts or revealing outfits. Women ideally wear saris, salwar kameez, long skirts. Men can wear shirt pant, Veshtis (like a lungi).
We preferred a few days break at India's own French Riviera ie. 🔗PONDICHERRY [3 days] before journeying further south into the spiritual and cultural heart of Tamil Nadu.
Temples of TamilNadu total tour duration: approx 1 month
THE DECCAN
The Deccan plateau lies between south and central India. As a traveller, it's good to know the History and Geography of this region.
Geography: Deccan plateau is all that lies south of the Narmada river. Narmada is India's 5th longest river, that starts from the pilgrim town of Amarkantak in Madhya Pradesh. The river flows westward, cutting through the states of Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat before draining into the Gulf of Khambat (Gujarat) into the Arabian sea.
History: The Deccan is steeped in history. Stories of ancient India's empires~ (Vijayanagaras, Chalukyas), maharajas and great emperors, wars that were fought here... This was the scene of action.
Hyderabad (5 days), India's top IT hub is also a historical city. After a weeklong respite of pubs, good food, relaxing stay and touring, I proceeded westward to Pune where I took up suitable lodgings. Pune is well-connected to the Marathwada (Deccan) region. So I packed up for a road trip to Aurangabad, Daulatabad and Khuldabad (3 days), the popular Buddhist pilgrimage circuit of Ajanta Ellora (3 days) and further northwest to Lonar (3 days).
10- The Sahyadris
Pune, located at the foothills of the Sahyadris is at the heart of Maharashtra's rich history and vibrant culture. In recent times it has boomed into a major IT and manufacturing work hub, thereby promoting an increase in the city's workforce. Youngsters from all over pour into the city each day to earn their livelihood. The dire need for housing can be seen and felt as the deafening sound of construction activity and dust chokes you. Since I haven't been commuting during peak hours, I can't comment much on the traffic and pollution, but Rani, my roommate, thinks it's reasonable for a city like Pune.
After a busy week, the best way to find respite from the city is to get outdoors where the air is purer. My rental pad at Baner, close to the main highway is within a few hours from Pune's excellent weekend getaways~ Panchgani Mahabaleshwar is hardly 2 hours from Katraj junction.
Pune was a Maratha jagir since 1577 CE and is closely associated with Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the warrior king who fought Muslim invasions and the British in the pursuit of Hindavi Swarajya.The Great Maratha trail took me to some important and strategic forts~ Pratapgad, Raigad, Purandar,
Note- Due to the onset of summer months (April, May) plus other work commitments there are many forts that I have left out, but certainly hope to visit them at a later date.
Here comes the rain!
The Western ghats and Sahyadris witness heavy to very heavy monsoons from June to end August, and yet is the most sought for destination during the rains. The smell of wet earth and a multitude of waterfalls that gush down these scenic green mountains makes this region truly Magical!
(Above video) reverse waterfall, Naneghat
Lonavala - Khandala, Kamshet, Mulshi, Malshej ghat, DEVKUND waterfalls and Kaas pather (1 day) are a few places to experience the beauty of nature during monsoons. There are a host of group trek/ tour operators from Pune who organise an all paid tour with pick and drop in private vehicles to these places. I have found them knowledgeable, cost-effective and professional. Kindly do random checks on facebook for more details.
💡Which are the alcohol prohibited states in India, and Which states have tax-free/ cheap alcohol?
Sikkim, Goa, U.T. of Daman & Diu, U.T. of Pondicherry (ie. Puducherry, Karaikal and Yanam) are places where one can get tax-free cheaper booze than the rest of India. Gujarat, Bihar, Mizoram and Nagaland are on the other hand dry states in India where alcohol is prohibited.
11- Gujarat, Daman and Diu
After a spell of monsoons in Pune, I can feel the fresh air clear my thoughts~ it was now time to pack my bags and move on. "Where will you go next?" asked the curious Rani, as we sipped our evening cuppa on the balcony. "Gujarat," I replied.
Making future plans over a cup of tea
Gujarat is a colorful and lively state; always a festival here, a celebration 🎉 there.. But it's also a big state! Gujarat alone has a coastline of 1,600 kms the longest among all coastal states in India, besides it also shares its border with our hostile neighbour, Pakistan. However, taking a step forward in the right direction requires meticulous planning andattention to detail.
Daman & Diu U.T. (union territory)
Daman and Diu are strategic port towns that belonged to the former Portuguese colony of India's- Goa, Daman & Diu. Both places are situated snug, within Gujarat's coastline, though geographically far apart. Daman will be my first port of call (2 days).
Suggested read- The Battle of Diu for an understanding of Portuguese influence in India.
Gujarat's once obscure small towns are now booming industrial and business hubs; take the case of Surat (7 days)- it is now a major hub for textiles and diamonds. The once princely state of Vadodara (7 days), just 155km/ 3½ hrs north of Surat is also now an industrial belt.
Ahmedabad is also an excellent travel hub connecting mainland Gujarat to Saurashtra, Mount Abu, Rajasthan (2 days) and further north to Delhi.
Saurashtra coastline whirlwind road trip
Saurashtra or Kathiawar is the peninsular region of Gujarat jutting into the Arabian sea. It is home to some of Hinduism's sacred pilgrimage sites. Starting from Ahmedabad, this itinerary will require apprx 16 to 18 days.
The story of Delhi is it's history, the kings that ruled here, its inhabitants, their traditions, customs and the way they lived. Layers upon layers of ancient civilizations have been unearthed. These provide an insight into New Delhi's Pre-Islamic history.
Legacy [monuments] of muslim rulers in Delhi
MUHAMMAD GHORI~ who is reputed for bringing Islam into India belonged to the GHURID DYNASTY. He died in 1206 CE, leaving his legacy in the hands of his general QUTB AL-DIN AIBAK. Aibak was a Mamluk (meaning slave) and now the new Sultan in control of North-NW India. He instituted Lahore and later Badayun (present-day U.P.) as the capital of his Sultanate. Aibak was succeeded by his son-in-law, ILTUTMISH, whose reign (1211 CE onwards) was marked by a contentious struggle for the control of Lahore. And that is what prompted ILTUTMISH to make DELHI his new capital (1214 CE). Thereon the city gained importance as the seat of power for the Delhi Sultanate . The Mamluk and Khalji dynasties ruled from 1206 until 1320 CE, before the TUGHLAQ dynasty took over (1320 to 1414 CE). Thereafter followed the Sayyid and Lodi dynasty (1414 to 1526 CE). The most prominent among muslim invasions to India was The Mughal Empire (1526 CE). They were intercepted briefly by the Sur dynasty but continued until 1857 CE. All these invaders had just one goal in mind~ to convert the infidels to Islam and take over their land. So they destroyed innumerable hindu temples and built their own monuments and mosques, many of these still exist in Delhi.
The British considered Kolkata as the headquarters of the Empire, before once again switching to Delhi. It has remained India's capital city till this day.
Delhi's USP is the Delhi metro. It's an amazingly efficient and convenient means of conveyance within the city. A tour of Delhi by metro [15 days] is a great way to experience the city.
THE HIMALAYAN REGION
The Himalayan range runs east to west across countries such as Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet and the northern Indian States of Jammu & Kashmir, Ladakh, Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim, West Bengal and Arunachal Pradesh.
13- Garhwal, UTTARAKHAND
My first stop is UTTARAKHAND: A state that proves howGlaciers turns to rivers and rivers into goddesses. As the fertile river basins of the Gangetic plains flourished, it gave birth to a rich civilisation and Uttarakhand became Devbhoomi, a sacred place of pilgrimage. Starting at Haridwar-Rishikesh (7 days) where the waters of the Ganges is worshipped, I continued my journey northward to DEHRADUN (5 days)- the state capital.
The cool climes of Mussoorie have now become a hotspot for tourism, while the upper region is famous for the annual CHAR DHAM YATRA pilgrimage starting around April/ May until October. All this means greater footfall which it seems the state might have well underestimated. I was told; within the last couple of years these humble tourist haunts have witnessed an increasing number of vehicles on their narrow 2-way roads.
The engine gave such a screech that made my head jerk up. I had travelled a long way from Dehradun. The Shivalik Express was yet another 4 hours before my next destination~ SHIMLA, the capital of Himachal Pradesh. The mystery, romance and adventure of 🔗Shimla's British past (4 days) can be found amongst the numerous cottages and lodges built during the Raj era. Plus, 🔗Shimla's evergreen coniferous forests (3 days) and crisp climate make it an excellent destination during Spring-Summer.
A reasonable 1 week vacay should suffice. However, the pretty rustic settings and a favourable climate tempted me to find a a place where I could stay back for a month.
The perfect destination for a digital nomad
Hedged between the Indian mainland and Tibet is the forbidding, stark landscape of Spiti valley; a cold desert in the Trans-Himalayan region of Himachal Pradesh. Its picturesque landscape has since held the imagination of adventure seekers and casual tourists alike. But travel to this region is mostly dictated by climatic conditions. It is snowed in for the most part during winters, with the average temperature being -18°C. Being a mountainous terrain, roadblocks are common due to snowfall and landslides.
A bird's eye view of Kaza, Lahaul & Spiti, H.P.
The most suitable time to travel towards Kinnaur & Spiti is during the summer months from April to June.
WHY IS IT A GOOD IDEA TO EXIT THE HILL STATES AT THE ONSET OF MONSOONS ?!
The Hill States of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand have witnessed an unprecedented growth in tourism since the last couple of years. As a result hotels, guest houses, restaurants and all the rest needed to sustain these tourists have sprung up like crazy. Plus the effect of global warming is clearly visible ~ locals of Shimla and Mussoorie admit they didn't receive any snowfall last year, ie. 2023. Flash floods and cloudbursts are common and so are consequent landslides. According to the Himachal state Disaster Mgmt dept the cause of floods is rapid snowmelt, coupled with cyclonic occurrences in coastal areas.
That is why it is in your best interests to avoid the hills from June to August. Here are some visuals of the devastation.
The devastation of Monsoon 2023 in Himachal Pradesh- 8, 9 July pics
15- Haryana, Chandigarh & Punjab
Monsoon is a tough season in India, whether it be coastal areas, congested cities or the Hill States. The safest bet closest to Himachal Pradesh in my opinion was the planned city of Chandigarh. However, unable to find any suitable accommodation just then~ I had to settle for nearby Pinjore, Haryana.
Kalka-Pinjore is 20 kms away and may seem like a village in comparison to Chandigarh, but it has some nice new residential areas with classy bungalows and no water-logging. All I needed was an affordable remote work staycation, do some laundry and get my meals in the rent.
My New rental guest house (above) and bird's eye view at Pinjore Haryana
1 Day Explorations from Kalka-Pinjore
Kalka-Pinjore is located midway across Southern Himachal Pradesh, Chandigarh & Punjab, making it an excellent travel hub to places of interest within these states. From Pinjore, There are some easy 1-Day Explorations, such as:
1) The British era cantonment towns of KASAULI (1 day) and DAGSHAI (1 day). With a mix of history from the British colonial days and an opportunity to experience raw nature, these places are perfect for a rejuvenating weekend.
2) Chandigarh is India's Iconic city built during the post-independence era. A 2/3 days tour of Chandigarh showcases the beauty of modern architecture.
Punjab~ land of the brave
Punjab, the land of 5 rivers; Sutlej, Beas, Ravi, Jhelum and Chenab is situated at India's north-western frontier bordering Pakistan. Its fertile alluvial plains are as rich as its history. This is where Sikhism was born from the Pangs of Persecution. Guru Hargobind (6th Sikh guru) introduced the Akal Sena to withstand religious intolerance and persecution from Mughal rule. A series of Mughal-Sikh wars were carried out during his time. Later on Guru Gobind Singh (10th Sikh guru) absorbed Akal Sena into the Khalsa fauj. Mughal-Sikh wars between Mughals and Khalsa Sikhs continued throughout Guru Gobind Singh's lifetime.
The perfect season to cover the Golden Triangle circuit ie. Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are during spring from Feb to March.
An excellent strategy to do more than just Delhi-Agra-Jaipur, is to extend your journey into the Himalayan region [April, May and June], OR into the desert state of Rajasthan prior [Nov to March].
Kashmir's natural beauty gets ready to unfold by March. The snow has already melted and the trees are stark naked, as if waiting to adorn in beautiful shades of colors.
The average temperature of Srinagar in March during this period ranges from around 4°C to 18°C. The occasional showers contribute to a drop in temperature.
But most often it's sunny 🌅☀️. So I stepped out a bit to seize the day 😎
To reach Srinagar, you first need to get to Jammu. Refer to the IRCTC app/ website and board a convenient train to Jammu-Tawi railway station.
Since 2023, major construction 🚧 work ie. new tunnels system to facilitate bypass of landslide prone section has been ongoing on this Jammu-Srinagar national highway route. So it's advisable to check the road conditions before you head on. #jkupdates
Jammu-Srinagar national highway between Baniyhal to Ramban
Latest update (May 24)
MEMU train: 04640 Baramula- Sangaldan train is on track. This train passes through Srinagar; which means you can travel by road upto Sangaldan or Baniyhal, and then take the MEMU train from here to Srinagar. There are many more MEMU and DEMU trains that pass through Srinagar- please check Google for the latest update.
After spending over a week exploring Srinagar, it was time for me to set out on perhaps the most exciting and highly-anticipated journey of my life. There are innumerable accounts of people who have undertaken the Srinagar - Leh - Manali route by road, and they swear to it being nothing short of a nail-biting experience, requiring a major shift in both— Attitude and Altitude.
18- Kangra valley, H.P
Kangra region is situated to the extreme west of the state of Himachal Pradesh, bordering Jammu. Popular touristy places in Kangra are Dalhousie, Bir Billing, Dharamsala, Mccleodganj and Dharamkot. Mandi town is an excellent connecting hub to Kangra. Read blog 👇🔗
The best time to visit Kangra valley is during spring-summer (March to June) or Autumn (Sept to early Nov). Temperatures begin to drop around end-Nov until Feb.
19- Madhya Pradesh
MADHYA PRADESH is a state at the heart of India. Bhopal is it's capital and Indore is the largest city. It borders the state of Uttar Pradesh to the NE, Chattisgarh to the E, Maharashtra to the S, Gujarat to the W and Rajasthan to the NW. It is rich with impressive Tiger reserves, monuments, palaces, Buddhist pilgrimage sites and more.
When to visit Madhya Pradesh
The best time to visit Madhya Pradesh is during the spring months (Feb, March, April) or during autumn (Oct-Nov).
The northern and central parts of India are bitterly cold during the winter months and scorching hot during summer. I totally recommend visiting during the pleasant months of spring and autumn for an enjoyable holiday.
For the next few months, I will be embarking on a journey of the northern Indian states and NEPAL (Himalayan country bordering U.P. and Bihar). Some of the things that make the Hindi heartland of India unique; its seeped in politics and has had a bad law and order track record. Much to my discomfort and apprehensions given the 'not so positive' reviews; I ultimately undertook the challenge as a solo woman traveller. Will it work out fine for me or not 🤔 I wondered?!
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