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Basic info on BHAVNAGAR: Travel, Stay & Eat
Bhavnagar is 170 km from Ahmedabad via the Bagodra-Dholera route. The roads are relatively empty and smooth for most part of the journey and you should reach in roughly 3.30 hr.
The best time to visit Bhavnagar is from Sept to Jan-Feb. The temperature in summers can go upto 38-40° on avg.
Where to stay- At the top of the heap is Nilambag palace, a heritage hotel and home to Bhavnagar's royal family. If you are travelling with family, there are many other mid-range hotels. For an affordable dormitory-style stay, If you are a backpacker like me, I recommend Sweet dream dormitory (mixed dorms) Ph# 076230 09009 rs.250/ dorm bed. They have comfy cubicle style beds with privacy curtains. The cubicle is fitted with your own little tubelight, fan, hooks and luggage compartment. The washrooms are common and gets a bit crowded during morning hours, but otherwise relatively clean- with shampoo and body wash dispensers and running hot water. Another good thing is that the hostel is located in the city center and just 1km from GSRTC Bus stand.
What to see and do in & around BHAVNAGAR
Commuting-
Kala naka | gangajali talav | GSRTC Bus stand, Panwadi is the city's orientation from where one can find autos, private shared vehicles and S.T. buses to places in and around the city.
Here are my Top 3 recommendations to make the most of your trip here.
1. TEMPLES & Heritage sites within Bhavnagar
BHAVNAGAR was founded in 1723 AD by Bhavsinhji Gohil and thus the GOHIL DYNASTY ruled Bhavnagar until it got integrated into an independent INDIA.
A) Takhteshwar temple
This temple was built in 1893 during Raja Thakhtasinhji's reign and located atop a small hillock in Bhavnagar. This small temple in marble is dedicated to Mahadev/ SHIVA It is well within walking distance of the city.
B) Khodiyar mandir Rajapra highway
There are many Khodiyar mata mandirs, but the original one is off. RAJPARA highway. You should find shared autos from Kala naka Rs 20-25/pax, then walk left for 800 metres to the temple.
Khodiyar mata is a form shakti and is represented alongside a crocodile. Typical Shakti worship with generous red vermillion, coconut instead of 'bali' is used here. The crowd is usually moderate on normal days.
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| Khodiyar mata mandir, Rajpra highway Bhavnagar (shakti temple) |
Tip- Share autos on the BHAVNAGAR-SIHOR route are less hassle and cheaper than a private auto.
C) Sihor mata mandir, Sihor
After visiting Khodiyar mandir return to the Rajpara highway and wait there, shared cabs will pass by that will take you till SIHOR Rs.10/pax.
Bhavnagaris hold Sihor mata with great reverence. The temple located on a hillock in Sihor is where they head to every Sun & Tue (main days) to pour out their heart to the goddess. She is especially important to childless couples and the photos of kids hanging on the tree inside the temple compound clearly indicate that their prayers are being answered.
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| Neola or Indian grey mongoose atop a hillock |
Tip- If you visit Sihor mata mandir around noon hours, the temple provides free meals. But do rinse the plate before being served.
Tip- there is a long flight of steps to be climbed, which is not too difficult if you go slow and easy.
D) BAPS Swaminarayan tmple
Swaminarayan temples are sprinkled all over Gujarat and there is one such beautiful temple in Bhavnagar as well. The campus has the feel of an Akshardham temple with decorated corridors. One can partake of the delicious and free lunch meals.
E) Heritage buildings
Since Bhavnagar was established is 1723 a number of historic buildings are from that period. Foremost among them is the Nilambag palace- however it is out of bounds for tourists unless you plan to stay there. Ganga deri- is a chhatri in white marble situated beside the Gangajaliya talav. It is among the group of structures commissioned by Takhtsinhji in 1875 CE. The talav looks well placed in the city center but seems rather neglected in its upkeep. Shantilal Shah High school and the nearby High court- both buildings have incredible character of the good 'ol royal days but again not so well maintained. Since located within the busy market area these might escape your sight. The Barton library (1882 CE)- is the best kept among the lot. It is named after colonel L.C. Barton, a British politician, and is a true old-world charm where one can sit and read in peace.
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| Heritage buildings in Bhavnagar |
2. VELAVADAR BLACKBUCK NATIONAL PARK
How to get there ~
The Blackbuck N.P. is situated midway down Ahmedabad- Bhavnagar route approx 45 km from Bhavnagar. Incase you don't have your own vehicle, get on a bus going towards Ahmedabad/ Vadodara and ask to be dropped at ADHELAI. From there an auto to Blackbuck N.P. entry gate.
Park timings and safari details~
Velavadar Blackbuck N.P. is closed between June to Sept. Best time to spot wildlife is Nov to Feb. Safaris are conducted mornings and evenings. Cost of safari is a bit steep. You can take your vehicle inside the park but guide is compulsory. Park entry ticket 400 rs + guide charges 400 rs
Since I was solo and without a vehicle~ I asked whether it's possible to tag with a group safari, but didn't get any proper response, hence I had to abandon my plan for the moment.
Where to stay at Velavadar N.P~
The safari can be done in a day from Bhavnagar. However, getting the early morning safari can be cumbersome and hence it's ideal to stay overnight. They have private rooms as well as dormitory. The dormitory is further away from the park, closer to the road Dormitory cost: 250/ rs per bed/person.
How to book the stay-
The forest guest house [Kaliyar Bhavan] is available and bookings can be done at the forest booking office at Bahumali bhavan, Bhavnagar. This office is located a bit further from the Bhavnagar GSRTC bus stand.
Alternatively contact the forest guest house (Dormitory) directly at ph# 6353215151 (speak to Milan)
3- Palitana: towards a spiritual awakening
Palitana is the reason why the vast majority of people visit Bhavnagar in the first place. The Shatrunjaya hill in Palitana is home to over 900 exquisitely carved Jain temples. The word Shatrunjaya means 'victory over one's inner enemies' and as part of the Jain pilgrimage circuit, it is believed that the daunting climb of 3500 steps will lead the devout closer to salvation.
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| The 24 tirthankaras of Jainism |
Points to note when visiting Palitana
The temples atop Shatrunjaya hill remain closed during monsoon. The best time to visit would be winters from Nov to Feb. It is advisable to start the climb really early if you wish to escape the midday heat. Dolis are available at a charge, and a big relief in case you have any health ailments.
Temples open around 6/ 7 am and close at 6 pm. It is required to leave then as no stay is allowed to stay on the sacred hill after sunset.
Water & eats- this will be a tiring climb hence carry your own water in a metal container as they do not permit plastic bottles on top. Also carry your own eatables as these too are not sold here. It is a no commercial zone- no guides, souvenir shops etc.
Where to stay at Palitana-
The Palitana town at the base of the hills has many stay options. There are also Dharmashalas.
Om Shanti Bhavan Dharamshala
Near Taleti road, Behind Parna bhavan,
PALITANA Ph# 09375861523
Please call in advance to book your stay
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