On my previous visit to Kasauli, I met a local guy who told me about another colonial British era town just 13 kms away. Dagshai, he stated has a haunted graveyard, and its old jail has some sinister stories attached to it. Frankly, I'm not the type to get carried away by ghost stories. But on second thoughts 🤔 "What's the harm in exploring this place and finding that out for myself," I wondered?!
Brief history of Dagshai
Dagshai is an old cantonment town of Himachal Pradesh that was founded in 1847 by the East India Company. The town was established by securing 5 villages 'free of any cost' from Maharaj Bhupinder Singh ji of Patiala. Before the British it was under Mughal rule. The Mughals branded the foreheads of their worst criminals and dispatched them to live here in exile, thereby lending the town its name Daag-e-Shahi, meaning 'a royal stain'. The name might have gotten corrupted into Dagshai during British rule.
Before we go ahead however, here are are some basic frequently asked questions that will help you explore this place.
FAQ (Frequently asked questions)
1) Where is Dagshai located and how to get there?
Dagshai is located in Solan district of H.P. approx 13 kms from Kasauli and 30 kms from Kalka. All buses on the Chandigarh/ Kalka to Solan/ Shimla route stop here. Request to be dropped at Kumarhatti Dagshai.
2) How to explore Dagshai?
Basically there are 3 main things to do here~ explore the jail museum, visit the cemetery and experience #RawNature.
You can explore Dagshai by your own vehicle or by foot. There are no regular buses on this road. Hiring a private auto is a option to save time and energy. A leisurely hike by foot 5 kms/ 3 hrs approx is a great way to experience the sights and sounds of nature.
From Kumarhatti Dagshai walk towards the flyover. To the right side of the flyover you will see 2 paths-
👈the left one is a motorable but gentle steep road for 3 kms or so. This could prove somewhat challenging for a casual hiker, but perfect if you have your own vehicle. The road has some rough patches and may prove to be bumpy ride/ drive. Return by the same route.
👉the right one is the hiking path. There is a a stairway after you pass by the Dental clinic. Climbing the stairway is no doubt tough, but is a much shorter distance than the road. You will start your Exploration hike from this right road, and exit to the left.
I maintained a slow and easy pace up the stairway path for about 20 mins or so hoping to find the jailhouse at every turn.
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| The hiking stairway path leading to the Jail |
As the climb progressed, a thick blanket of mist filled the air. The place looked so forlorn and shrouded in mystery that it sent a chill down my spine. Not a soul was in sight! So I decided to wait awhile. until someone came along. 10 min later, a local guy could be seen walking in the opposite direction. Thankfully he confirmed that I was on track.
Famous Inmates of Dagshai jail
Dagshai military jail was one of the three military jail's of Colonial era. It was built at a time when the 1857 Uprising was beginning to take shape and housed mostly political prisoners. Amongst those incarcerated here are~
‣‣ Gorkha soldiers of the Nasiri Regiment who had revolted against the British during the 1857 Uprising.
‣‣ 12 Indian soldiers who were sympathisers of the 'Ghadar movement' in 1915.
‣‣ Few revolutionaries from the ship 'Komagata Maru' in 1914. 4 of the ring leaders of this incident were hanged.
‣‣ A number of Irish Catholic soldiers of the 1st Battalion of the 'Connaught Rangers' who mutinied against their English officers in 1920. Several, including the most famous of them all- Private James Joseph Daly were executed at this jail. Mahatma Gandhi was so fascinated by the Irish prisoners that he spent a day at DAGSHAI jail as a voluntary support to the Irish prisoners.
‣‣ Nathuram Godse also spent a night at the prison before being taken for a Trial to Shimla High court.
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Nathuram Godse's cell where he spent 1 night at DAGSHAI jail
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Suggested read- History of British rule in India (1600- 1947)DAGSHAI jail's design and architecture
The jail was built under the guidance of Lord Napier in 1849 at a cost of ₹72,875/.
It has 54 cells each measuring 8'x12'. A single heavily barricaded window served the need for ventilation. Plus, there are underground vents that draw air from a pipeline with an opening into the outer wall. The teak wood flooring was seasoned to make it termite resistant.
The structure's 'T' shape, 20' ceiling ht and hollow wooden flooring are designed in such a way that the slightest movement of prisoners could be easily heard by the guard on duty. 27 cells were common cells and 16 were solitary confinement cells. The solitary cells had no ventilation or access to natural light.
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| Dagshai military jail |
The iron gates of each cell are made of specially coated iron alloy, which make it virtually impossible for any prisoner to cut it with any implement.
Novel Punishment techniques
Perceived indiscipline of inmates sometimes resulted in inhuman punishment. Eg- a prisoner was made to stand between the doors of the cell.
Both the doors were kept locked, thus ensuring that the prisoner was kept standing for hours, thereby depriving him of any rest.
There was also a torture and punishment cell.
Executions at DAGSHAI jail
Amongst those executed were 12 Indian soldiers who had links with the Ghadar party. They were executed by a firing squad in the prison yard.
Then there was the 22 year old Irishman Private James Galy of the 1st Battalion of Connaught Rangers. He too was executed by a firing squad on the morning of 2 Nov 1920. "It is all for Ireland. I am not afraid to die." he wrote in a final letter to his mother. Apart from dying for his country, Daly also made history by becoming the last member of the British army to be executed for a military offence.
Reviewing DAGSHAI's Haunted graveyard
It was past noon. After a quick bite, I walked towards the haunted graveyard (800m ahead of the jail). Sadly, it was completely covered by a thick boundary wall.
I felt nothing spooky. However, what baffled me was this corner spot with a slight wall that was hard to ignore. It resembled a typical firing squad area that I have seen in some movies. I wondered 🤔 what the purpose for the wall might have been?
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| The baffling wall near the haunted graveyard |
Maybe, it was my imagination working overtime after the jail visit. Who knows?! All I can say~ it was hard to ignore... So I said a silent prayer and moved on.I wanted to see what lay within the walls.
The story behind the hauntings at DAGSHAI graveyard
Mary Rebecca Weston was the wife of Major George Weston, a British army officer. She died in 1909 during childbirth, along with her 8 month old unborn babe. Her heartbroken husband commissioned her grave; a striking piece of work in marble.
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| To the sacred and loving memory of my wife Mary Rebecca Weston who died at Dagshai, 10th December 1909 and our unborn Babe~ Major George Weston |
Mary's death was a tragedy, and now her soul was distressed. Unworthy rumors spread, that~ a chip of the grave belonging to a pregnant woman at childbirth might grant a childless couple in conceiving a child. Ignorant people visiting the grave cut pieces of the marble.
When the grave got defaced as almost unrecognisable, a new rumor spread to counter the previous one. Some people claimed to have seen Mary's ghost wandering around her grave. The ghost rumor worked to the advantage of protecting the grave apparently. Recently some local well-wishers joined hands in restoring the grave (June 25, 2017).
In Conclusion~ from my personal experience, there were no spooky incidents and the haunting rumor could be a way to deter the ignorants from defacing the grave.
The mystery, romance and adventure of unexplored paths
The hike trail 🥾 from Dagshai Graveyard ➤🠉Charring Cross ➤ Kumarhatti Dagshai is 2.3 kms as per Google maps, but expect it to take a bit longer.
It was only 2 pm and I was in no hurry. The weather was perfect for a leisurely stroll. The curvy road is even in some places and leads gently downhill. The pathway is framed by untouched Cedar and Pine forests making this a pleasurable hike.
There is a British era (1847) Anglican church just before Charring cross which I missed. Later when I reached the Charring cross turn, there was a clear sign to an uphill road leading to the church. But, an army personnel on duty stopped me for going there. So I stopped by a lone restaurant for some refreshments.
As odd as it may seem, except for a tattered white Maruti 800, no other human passed by this road. I kept looking over my shoulders to watch out for hostile entities, but none appeared. Thank God!
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| An old-world charm, British era post office right after Charring Cross turn~ Dagshai |
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