An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
Exploring CHETTINAD's heritage mansions, flavors and antiques
Chettinadu is referred to a cluster of some 74 villages within the districts of Pudukkottai and Sivaganga, that is home to the Chettiar community of TamilNadu. During the 19th and early 20th century the Chettiars were a prosperous trading and banking community. They traded in spices, salt, rice, pulses and gems with faraway lands and prospered from it.
Signs of their wealth and prosperity can be seen in the palatial mansions and palaces that they so tastefully built.
A pic taken in the balcony of Attangudi palace, Karaikudi CHETTINAD
The Chettiars seemed to have a fine taste of design and architecture. Greatly influenced by their foreign visits, they brought back with them objets d'art and such things of beauty to decorate their homes. Open courtyards, elaborate verandahs and the use of Italian as well as the famous Athangudi floor tiles were used throughout the space. Plus they settled for nothing less than Burma teakwood for their pillars and doors.
A Chettinad heritage house, note how the Burma teakwood columns in ochre and green stand out.
Lavish and ornate door carvings, chandeliers and belgian glass windows display their impeccable taste for the good things in life. Well I could go on and on, but let me give you a piece of advice...
Tip- Most hotels can arrange a tour of Chettinad heritage mansions, palaces and temples.
Where to stay at CHETTINAD
Karaikudi is the main town in the CHETTINAD region. For a budget traveler, here are a few decent hotels in the budget and mid-range category.
Hotel Meyyappa (750 rs approx/ night), has a nice cosy feel with all amenities - 24 hrs hot water, clean linen and a flat T.V. with most channels. Their room service provides breakfast and their staff is responsive.
A budget stay at Hotel Meyyappa, Karaikudi
Manager Raju was helpful in providing a chauffeur driven car for a 3 day tour (1.5 to 2k rs approx).There are many such good hotels that make your stay memorable.
Chettinad's USP is its palatial heritage mansions and staying at one of these may not be cheap, but is certainly worth the experience. Prominent names in this category are Chettinadu mansion and The Bangla.
Chettinadu mansion is a heritage mansion that hosts guests
Things to do in Karaikudi, CHETTINAD
Chettinad is at the heart of Tamilnadu's cultural and heritage legacy. So do take time off and spend 3 to 4 days for an enriching cultural and culinary experience.
Day 1- Heritage mansions tour
Driving through KARAIKUDI's quiet, dusty lanes; you will no doubt pass by several heritage mansions, many of which look neglected and in shambles. "Why are these mansions deserted?" I asked Murli, my tour car driver. "These families are now settled in foreign countries," he replied.
Abandoned Chettiar homes of CHETTINAD, Tamilnadu
Beautiful homes don't just happen by accident - they need an idea, plan, design, the right people to construct and most of all huge funds to make their dreams a reality. Yet they abandon all this to live in foreign lands. One is likely to see similar scenes on a drive through the coastal state of Goa- palatial Portuguese homes abandoned by folks who preferred to live abroad instead.
Amongst KARAIKUDI's palatial mansions are:
Athangudi palace at Kanadukathan (also known as Raja's palace)
Nearby Athangudi palace is a small-scale factory that manufactures the famed Athangudi floor tiles. Do drop by for a demonstration of how painstakingly these floor tiles are made. Plus there are 1/ 2 temples nearby; do check with locals or ask your driver.
Chettinadu mansion, Kanadukathan, also conduct bullock-cart rides. My driver too parked his awesome car and hopped onto the cart. While I got carried away with the unique experience, driver and the rider were having big laughs about how I spent 1000 rs for this bullock-cart ride... "Ha, ha, ha ha they went on while the cart rambled through the lanes and by-lanes. I just ignored them both!
A magnificent mansion at Kanadukathan, KARAIKUDI, T.N.- in dire need of attention
Another place I visited is the house of 2 brothers. This amazing heritage mansion is squarely divided among 2 brothers - one part of which is on display for a small fee. The terrace part commands a superb view of the roofs of surrounding mansions.
House of 2 brothers, salon- Kanadukathan KARAIKUDI
Flavors of Chettinad
When one utters the word 'Chettinad', it immediately sends signals to my tastebuds, reminding me of the delectable flavors of Chicken and fish chettinad gravy combined with fluffy soft appams or perhaps a bowl of plain hot white rice.But the idea of relishing authentic Chettinad cuisine at the place of its origin is at a different level, I would imagine. I read stories about an amma- cook at a Chettinad household's kitchen who used secret spices in the preparations. So it was about time to burn another 1000 rs for a meal at Chettinad mansion.
The meal was elaborate with 2/ 3 different types of rice preparations, assorted veggies, Chettinad chicken fry, Chettinad gravy, rotis, salads and a sweet dish. It was relatively good, but maybe I was expecting too much.
Shopping and antiques hunt in Karaikudi
There are 3 things to look out for when in Karaikudi.
Athangudi floor tiles
These colorful floor tiles have unique designs. They can be found in most Chettiar homes and some say they age well with time. Since they are handmade the cost is on the higher side 60- 65 rs psf. Do check on how they will transport your consignment in case you place an order.
Antiques
The lanes of Munreswaran koil road is a paradise for antique lovers. Almost all pieces are salvaged from Chettiar households. One wonders what might have forced them to sell their precious stuff for a song. It's heartbreaking but life goes on. Here are some of the things (I can think of) that are available here~
copper and brassware - pots, pans, door locks and other such knick-knacks
Porcelain - especially Dutch crockery, tea sets, bowls, ladles, spoons, show articles, etc
An exquisite antique tea cup from KARAIKUDI's antique lanes
European style colorful enamel kitchenware- pots, pans, milk cans etc
special chettinad baskets - these come in various shapes, sizes and colors; great for storing jewelry, knick-knacks etc.
Paintings - Tanjore and European paintings
Idols and statues of Gods and Goddesses in wood, metals etc.
Large stuff- ornate doors, windows, Burma teak wood columns and the like.
Tip- Bargain hard for antiques, do keep extra shopping bags as you may get carried away.
Saris
Special Chettinad cotton sarees in geometric designs. Cotton fabric is ideal for warm climates. Sarees can cost 800 rs and upward.
Day 2- Famous temples of Chettinad
There are many famous temples in the CHETTINAD region, and I visited 4 such temples of historic and religious significance on Day 2, plus a fort.
Tip- For a fruitful day I would suggest hiring a cab for the entire day, as these temples are spread out in different places, and public transport is almost negligible here.
Tip- temples are closed in the afternoons and open only in the evening, hence please start the day early.
Note- I have skipped temples in Athangudi, as these should be done on Day 1
Tip- the road condition for Day 2 (temples) is quite good and it's a smooth drive with empty roads.
Pillaiyarpatti- Sri Karpaga Vinayagar koil ( 12 kms from Karaikudi)
Timing 6 am to 1 pm & 4 to 8.15 pm
As the name suggests, the temple is focused on Vinayagar or Ganesha. GANESHA the elephant headed god signifies wisdom and 'Karpagam' is the wish fulfilling tree. This temple is ancient and was initially rock-cut hence the main deity is placed inside a cave like shrine. It is dedicated to Shiva and goddess Lakshmi.
Depiction of Ganesha (for reference only)
Vairavanpati- Valarolinathar Vadivudaiammai koil
Timing 6 am to 12 noon & 4 to 8 pm
The Naganathars (Chettiars) are devout worshippers of 'Shiva Parvati', and so are the main deities of this temple. Valarolinathar is Shiva and Vadivudaiammai is Parvati. This temple is also ancient (1200 years old). What caught my eye is the numerous sculpted pillars. My driver cum tour guide explained certain pillars resound with musical notes.
Vairavanpati- Valarolinathar Vadivudaiammai koil
Tip- this is rural Tamilnadu. It's a good idea to dress in a way, so as to blend in, instead of standing out.
Thirukoshtiyur - Sri Sowmiya Narayana Perumal koil
Timing 6 am to 1 pm & 5 to 8.30 pm
This temple has a beautiful ambience with spacious grounds and hardly any people around. Bhagvan VISHNU is the presiding deity and is among one of the 108 Divya (divine) desams (sites) of Vishnu. One can climb up the roof / gopuram tower for a great view of the surrounding countryside.
Patamangalam- Guru temple
Timing 6 am to 12 noon & 4 to 8 pm
This temple is 500 years old with Guru or Dakshinamurthy being the main deity and he is facing east; which is a unique feature of temple. It was almost noon and the temple had an incredibly positive vibe about it.
Thirumayam fort
The last is our list of temples for the day is Sathyamurti Perumal temple at Thirumayam. Like the Pallava period temples of Mahabalipuram, this one too is from the same time ( 7th century) and etched within a rock-cut cave. The shrine can be approached with the help of a bamboo ladder; which although appearing precarious is quite sturdy. The deity is Vishnu bhagvan. The surrounding area is a fort from where one can have a panoramic view of surrounding area.
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