An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar...
An Exploration of Goan-Portuguese homes
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The Portuguese conquest of Goa in 1510 brought with it western culture~ changes in food, customs, dress and lifestyle. Just like other European invaders, they too were here to stay, trade, convert people to Christianity and generally live off the land.
Explorations of new places and trade were catching on in Medieval Europe. The Portuguese themselves had earned solid expertise in navigating the open seas and within a short period of time, Goa had transformed into an important sea port opening up trade with far-off lands.
As time went by, a quiet Konkani region by the Arabian sea called Goem had metamorphosed into a grand Portuguese colony earning it the epitaph 'Rome of the East'.
From the simplest to the grandest of these houses and mansions; one can't help but note certain distinct features, like~
The exterior appearance
Goan houses~ both Portuguese and traditional Hindu style are unlike the concrete monstrosities of recent times. Set in a serene landscape amidst fields and coconut groves or otherwise, goan houses appear balanced and pleasing to the eye. As a matter of fact, this isn't just a matter of convenience.
The credit for this perfect house placement amidst the goan landscape goes to the sutradhar or urban designer, who carefully considered the location of the church, market, water bodies, residential neighborhoods etc.
What is also fascinating is the beauty of these houses. The higher the plinth and grander the staircase leading up, the higher the stature of the house owner. The exterior of most houses were often painted in bright colors of yellow, sky blue and crimson. There's also an uninhibited use of long verandahs all around the façade.
The entrance of a Goan Portuguese house, Loutolim South Goa
slanting tiled roofs
This is a typical feature keeping in mind the predominantly monsoon climate of the region. Also noteworthy, is the fact that they are built using local material and skill.
Family crest at the entrance
Not all homes have a family crest, but if they do, then it Indicates this is likely to be the house of a nobleman or aristocrat.
the balcão
Balcão is the outer seating area or porch. It had built-in seating and was mainly in use for casual visitors, like~ passers-by, vendors, neighbors and friends who are comfortable sitting outside, instead of a formal invitation inside the house. I have often walked along the goan bylanes on a nice Sunday afternoon and found neighbors, family and friends having a nice friendly chat in the balcão.
The steps leading to the balcão lend an added advantage in indicating the elevated stature of the house owners. The number of steps and the style clearly make the difference.
Entrada or entrance hall
Another feature of these homes is typically the transition space from the balcão to the main hall. Walking sticks and hats were a sign of European aristocracy and style, and so it's common to find a rack for the purpose in the entrada.
A beautifully carved sofa in the Entrada (entrance hall) of a Goan-Portuguese style house
Sala or Hall room
It is the main area for entertaining guests and was thus elaborately decorated as one would expect. Elaborate French windows opened onto the veranda.
Windows too were inlaid with oyster shells to filter the sunlight coming in.
The window of a Goan Portuguese house, inlaid with oyster shells to filter sunlight
The Banquet hall & Ballroom or Salas de jantar
The ballroom and banquet hall, most certainly was a sign of aristocracy and nobility. It was unsparingly lavish with chandeliers and the like, to host ballroom dancing on special occasions.
A walkthrough of Goan-Portuguese houses
There are many such grand-looking ancestral Goan-Portuguese homes that have witnessed generations live under the same roof, and they still do~ thus making it difficult to visit these homes uninvited
Palàcio do Deão is a Heritage house approx 15kms from MARGAO, South Goa
The Dean* of the Church in Quepem was a wealthy Portuguese nobleman, who founded the hamlet of Quepem. It was he who built this simplistic yet elegant house.
The beautiful garden surrounding the house is where the Dean would sit; under the cabana during his resting hours. The Portuguese had a dedicated recreation space/ room with games like carrom, chess and other such recreational activities of that time. Also observe the Belvedere where one could have a nice meal. It's an open-sided space that merges with the outdoors commanding a fine view.
Do houses and buildings in Portugal look similar to those in Goa?
A glimpse into the Portuguese Baroque style landscape seems almost like any other European country. And so it seems that the Portuguese were themselves inspired by various forms of European architectural styles and techniques.
Whereas, it is a known fact that the Portuguese government undoubtedly encouraged a similar European style in Goa. The reason being to alienate the new local converts from their cultural roots. On the other hand it gave the Portuguese a sense of permanence.
Surprisingly, much against the Portuguese expectations, goan Christian converts instead intertwined pre-Portuguese style of architecture with extensive use of indigenous construction materials and blended it with European glamour. The furnishings and decor were mostly imported from across the world.
Tip~ The Portuguese national style of architecture is Manueline, named after King Manuel I of Portugal.
Why do we have so many dilapidated (abandoned and in disrepair) houses in Goa?
The sight of ruined and abandoned houses in Goa brings a sense of foreboding remorse, making one wonder, what could have possibly gone wrong?
A ruined and abandoned house in Goa
Houses in Goa were based on an agrarian feudal system that was started by the Portuguese. It is no mean task to maintain such grand houses, and with the decline of the system the funds needed to refurbish them were in short supply.
A goan Portuguese house badly in need of repair
Times change, and so do people! Large-scale migrations became a norm ad Goans moved to Bombay initially, and later to Gulf in order to seek occupation. This brought about a separation of close family members.
When Goa was liberated from the Portuguese rule eventually in 1961, the Tenancy protection law came into force creating division between bhatkars (land/ house owners) and mundkars. Mundkars were basically workers who were provided small quarters within the landowners property. They now demanded their own fair share, thus creating rift and litigations in court.
The Tenancy protection law has increased the house owners anxiety in a way that they are unwilling to lease or rent their houses thereby causing a state of neglect.
All these reasons were responsible for the decay and decline of these houses.
A grand Portuguese style mansion in a complete state of neglect
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