The complete Madhya Pradesh (23 days) tour

MADHYA PRADESH is at the heart of India, Bhopal is its capital and Indore is the largest city. It borders the state of Uttar Pradesh to the NE, Chattisgarh to the East, Maharashtra to the South, Gujarat to the West and Rajasthan to the NW. M.P. is a state rich with impressive Tiger reserves, monuments, palaces, Buddhist pilgrimage sites and more.

When to visit Madhya Pradesh

The best time to visit Madhya Pradesh is during the spring months (Feb, March, April) or during autumn (Oct-Nov). The northern and central parts of India are bitterly cold during the winter months and scorching hot during summer. I totally recommend visiting during the pleasant months of spring and autumn for an enjoyable holiday.

How to reach Madhya Pradesh 

Bhopal and Indore are well-connected by air, rail and road. 

My personal itinerary was a bit different. I began my M.P. tour from the west ie Ex-Vadodara, and gradually proceeded north and eastwards. 

Here's my itinerary sequence for a rewarding Madhya Pradesh tour. 

TABLE OF CONTENT

1) Mandu (Mandav) 3 days

2) Maheshwar 2 days

3) Omkareshwar 3 days

4) Indore 2 days

5) Ujjain 2 days

6) Bhopal 4 days

7) Gwalior 3 days

8) Orchha 1 days

9) Khajuraho 3 days

* Days/ duration mentioned above are approx/ tentative 

#1 Mandu (Mandav)  

Mandav is an ancient fort city in the Dhar district, merely 33 kms from Maheshwar, across Dhamnod phata. Since travel in this section can be challenging, especially by public transport; I totally recommend visiting Mandu before heading onwards.

What is Mandu famous for?

This fortress town is famous for the legendary romance of Rani Roopmati and Baz Bahadur. Turn through the pages of history.

Note: I didn't visit this place, hence unable to provide much info. But given that it's a historical landmark with iconic palaces, monuments and forts; you may require more than a day. Kindly research further.

#2 Maheshwar

Maheshwar is an epithet referring to the Greatest of the Great- Shiva 🔱 and is a major spiritual place of pilgrimage for hindus.

Let's first understand the basics..

How to reach Maheshwar:

Vadodara to Maheshwar; best route for getting to Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh

Starting from Vadodara, you will pass by Dhar in order to first reach Dhamnod phata. And although Indore to Dhamnod phata may seems like a short distance; the traffic🚦 congestion (getting in and out of Indore) is both tiresome and time-consuming. From Dhamnod phata you should find local buses/ share jeep / autos heading to both Mandav and Maheshwar.

Dhamnod phata ~ Mandwa to left and Maheshwar to the right

Dhamnod phata is conveniently placed between Mandwa (classic historical site) to left and Maheshwar (spiritual site) to the right. If you plan on using public transport; there are many buses from Vadodara that stop at Dhamnod phata.

Things to do in Maheshwar 

Ahilya fort palace and temples in its vicinity

The Holkars were instrumental in the defeat of the Mughal rule in India. The Marathas army under Raghunathrao (brother of Nanasaheb Peshwa I) and Malhar Rao Holkar defeated the Mughal army in the Battle of Sikandarabad (1754)

Ahilya fort situated on the banks of river Narmada, is the residence of the Royal house of Holkars. The Holkars have their roots in Maharashtra. Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar ruled this region from 1765 to 1796. She built Ahilya Wada, her personal residences, offices, and Darbar ie. Audience hall, within this fort.

Statue of Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar at Ahilya Fort compound

Although, the most part of the fort palace is now a luxury heritage hotel; certain areas of the fort palace is still open to tourists. 

The lofty entrance gateway of Ahilya fort palace, Maheshwar - Madhya Pradesh 

Walk up the lofty entrance stairway into the courtyard. Climb up to the jharokhas for a wonderful view of the tranquil Narmada below.

Ornate Jharokhas of Ahilya fort palace, overlooking the river Narmada 

Get someone to click pics like these from the bottom of the fort. There are many photographers out there who don't charge much.

Thereafter, comb the river banks for temples. The fort-palace and temples with their distinct Maratha architecture are refreshing.  Relax by the ghats or hop onto one of  the boats. An approx 15 min boat ride upstream to Sahastradhara down The Narmada... will make you lose all sense of time.

And when that's all done, snack out at 'Ladoos' - the fort café. If you wish to Up the ante; lunch at Ladoos is a variety of salads, cold soup, fruit and cheese, and maybe a light bake washed down with pink wine.

Shopping at Maheshwar 

Right behind the fort down the road is the Rehwa weaving unit and Ahilya Vihar~ here 40 weaving families (homes) have looms in it. You can watch the weavers work. I was absolutely tempted to buy the stunning Maheshwari saris & dress sets~ but anticipating they would be expensive, I skipped it.

#3 Omkareshwar  

Omkareshwar alongwith Mandu, Maheshwar and Indore like the rest of the Malwa region was ruled by the Parmar kings of Dhar (Malwa) in the 11 to 13th centuries.

Inscriptions of these kings have been found on the mainland and many of the

beautiful antiquities that lie scattered around the island date to these centuries.

Getting here-

If you aren't following this schedule, there are ordinary regular buses (every ½ hour) from Indore to Omkareshwar.

Things to see and do in Omkareshwar 

Omkareshwar is a 6-km long narrow stretch of an island in the Narmada. It is connected by a bridge (on which vehicles are not allowed) and by boats to the mainland on the south. Like most pilgrimage sites, Omkareshwar has also gotten modernised to accommodate the steady flow of pilgrims. You may also spot a handful of foreign tourists here. But keep a look out for Omkareshwar's ancient sculptural treasures. Since all of this is contained in pretty much 6-by-1 km of an island, it's easy to explore the temples within a day.

Omkar Mandhata temple

Is the reason why pilgrims flock to Omkareshwar. Of the lakhs of Shivalings in India, it's the 'Dwadash Jyotirlingas' — the 12 self-generated lingas of light that occupy the pride of place in the hearts of devotees of Lord Shiva. This is where Shiva manifested himself and is worshipped as one such Jyotirlinga. The temple had been under the patronage of local Bhilala tribal kings and still has adivasi priest functionaries. The Jyotirlinga here is usually bathed with panchamrit (nectar of the five elements) with milk, water, curd, honey and ghee. Rice, turmeric and vermillion are also offered.

Trishuls

The main hall that leads to the Jyotirlinga sanctum is full of impressive old carved pillars that testify to the antiquity of the temple. The Jyotirlinga is in a small chamber in which 15 devotees can squeeze in at a time. It's a natural stone linga covered with milk, water and flowers.

There are many small shrines scattered around the complex, such as Bhairon Baba, Panchmukhi (five-faced) Ganesh, Krishna as Dwarkadheesh Ranchhod, Narmada, Shani (Saturn), Santaan-wali Mata (child-giving goddess), Gaumata and Radha Krishna as Jhumkeshwar. Climbing the stairs above the main temple's sanctum, you can access shrines to Shiva worshipped as Mahakaleshwar, Siddheshwar, 

Gupteshwar and Dhwajeshwar, spread across three floors.

Timings: Opens at 5 am, but the sanctum closes for gupt (hidden) aarti from 5.30-6 am, closed for bhog (feeding the lord) from 12.30-1 pm; closed for cleaning from 5.45-6.15 pm; shayan (retiring) aarti at 8.30 pm; temple closes around 10 pm. Open 24 hrs during Shivaratri

The temples is crowded during Shivaratri, as also in the Hindu months of Sawan and Kartik (the latter especially from the 11th day to the full moon day). Monday being Lord Shiva's designated day, larger than- usual crowds visit and the temple opens an hour earlier than the usual 5 am

TIP : Motorboats connect the mainland to the Koti Tirth Ghat below the temple (fare Rs 5 per person). The old or infirm can hire a palanquin for a small fee to climb up, wait and bring them back. Photography is allowed inside the temple

Siddhanath Temple

This 13th century temple stands on a high platform, the sides of which have 4- to 5-foot high elephants carved on them, it has beautiful pillars, some 15 ft high, and walls with engravings. 

From the Omkar Mandhata Temple, some 170 steps cut into the hillside wind up, past the palace of the tribal kings, past local settlements, to the beautiful ruins of the Siddhanath Temple.

Timings Sunrise to sunset

Gauri Somnath temple

This old temple can be reached by a long flight of steps cut into the hill-face west of the bridge, clearly visible from the mainland. On crossing the bridge, these steps lie a little way away to your left. The red temple is strewn with antiquities, is famous for its truly enormous jet black granite, linga.

Location On top of the island, 300m north-west of the bridge  Timings Sunrise-sunset

Mamaleshwar temple

This is an important temple on the mainland that faces the Omkar Mandhata. It's a peaceful 11th century temple complex with finely carved stones and materials from old temples around it.

Location On the mainland, 250m east of the bridge via Gaumukh Ghat Timings 5 am-10 pm; sanctum closed for bhog from 12.30-1.30 pm

Narmada-Kaveri Sangam 

While in Omkareshwar, head to the Narmada-Kaveri Sangam, a 45 min long walk from the bridge. The island has some quiet wooded areas, and is very rewarding if you are heritage minded. You could also take a boat ride on the river. A 20 min boat ride for two costs about Rs 50-100.

#4 Indore  

Indore located at the southern end of the Malwa plateau, has historically been the stronghold of the Maratha Holkar dynasty until the princely states acceded to a unified India post-1947. 

My first impression of the city was rather unpleasant— the traffic was intimidating and people rude. Finding a decent budget hotel as a solo woman traveller took its toll on both body and spirit. Practically every hotel I went refused my request for a room, sadly I was forced to move on. 

Read more 👇

The Decline of Mughal rule in India

Things to do in Indore 

Rajwada palace (Holkar palace)

The palace, situated right in the city centre was constructed in 1747 AD by Madhav Rao Holkar, the founder of the Holkar dynasty. 

Other places to visit are; Shri Annapoorna temple, Khajrana Ganesh mandir, Lal Bagh palace and Kanch mandir. 

#5 Ujjain  

Ujjain is a town imbued with deeply religious sentiments and yet practical; the innumerable guest houses and budget hotels play host to the ever-flowing waves of pilgrims. The sacred, soothing Shipra, upon whose banks Ujjain flourishes, is transformed by the pomp and energy of the Kumbh Mela held once in 12 years.

By the 6th century BCE, Avanti (as Ujjain was then known) finds mention in Buddhist literature as one of the four great sovereign powers of the time, along with Vatsa, Kosala and Magadha. The city lay on the main trade route between North India and the Deccan 

region to the south.

Getting here- 

There are frequent buses on the Indore-Ujjain route, covering a distance of 1:20 hrs/ 54 kms from Indore. 

Madhya Pradesh tour-1

Things to do in Ujjain 

There are regular guided tour buses that will take you on a spree of all temples; the rates are nominal.

Mahakaleshwar temple

Shiva reigns eternal in Ujjain as the presiding deity of time (kaal), one of the 12 revered Jyotirlingas. The majestic temple of Mahakaleshwar, its shikhara soaring into the skies, evokes awe and reverence and dominates the life of this bustling city and its busy people. 

As you prepare yourself for a morning at the temple, remember that you have to be there well before the time for the aarti in order to secure a good vantage point. There are arrangements for pilgrims to have darshan by standing in a queue, which begins as early as 3 am for the morning aarti. Aim for a place on the stairs facing the sanctum for a good view of all the rituals that lead to the aarti.

A vermilion smeared pillar~ Ujjain temple

Mahakal is of great significance to Tantriks, especially because the linga faces south as Dakshinamurti, the only Jyotirlinga to be so. One of the rituals, the Bhasma Aarti (4-6 am), involves smearing the lingam with still-hot ashes from the cremation grounds in homage to Shiva as the master of death, the dweller of cremation grounds. It is easy to sneer and back away in revulsion but don't lose sight of the symbolism. Death and life in Hindu tradition form part of an inseparable continuum. Creation and destruction alternate cyclically.

Offerings for Shiva

TIP- If you want to avoid the crowds (usually in the mornings and evenings), visit the temple around noon, when the crowd has subsided. This way, you also get space to stroll around the temple premises and absorb the atmosphere. Glance over to the central roof of the garbhabgriha and you will find it decked with the sacred Rudrayantra made of 100 kilos of silver. The great Jaladhari (the vessel of water with a perforation, suspended above the Shivaling) is also made of silver.

Other major temples

About 8 km north-west of the railway

station is the Bade Ganeshji ka Mandir

(open 6 am 10 pm). Worshippers throng to worship the swayambhu idol of the Chintaman ('the one who assures freedom from worldly anxieties). The artistically carved pillars in the assembly hall date back to the Paramara period.

Harsiddhi temple open 6 am-11 pm), is particularly special. According to the Shiva Purana, when Shiva carried away the body of Sati from Kankhol, her elbow dropped here. The pillars with lamps were built during the Maratha period 

The clean, quiet and scenic Ram Mandir and Ram Mandir Ghat located just over 2 km north-west of the railway station, is the ideal place to spend an hour by the banks of the Shipra River, ruminating or watching life go by.

The Kal Bhairav Mandir (open 5 am-9

pm), located about 5 km north of the

railway station, is mentioned in the Avanti Khanda of the Skanda Purana. The Kapalika and Aghora sects venerate Kal Bhairav, and Ujjain was a prominent centre for both. Even today, liquor is ritually offered to the deity.

Liquor offerings ~ Kal Bhairav mandir, Ujjain

There is a deep and narrow cave in the courtyard, which contains the temple of Patal Bhairav, and a small stroll west down the road will take you to the Vikrant Bhairav shrine, both places a must-visit for the Tantriks. The temple is surrounded by a small, clean and well-kept garden and is best visited during the day, so that the evening crowds are avoided.

Other temples in Ujjain are~ Gadkalika temple  (open 6 am-9 pm), located about 4 km north of the railway station, is believed to have been worshipped by Kalidasa. It underwent renovations during the reigns

of Emperor Harshavardhan, the Paramaras as well as the rulers of the erstwhile Gwalior State..Mangalnath Mandir ( 4 kms from the railway station) is another Shiva temple overlooking the Shapra river. According to the Matsya Purana, Mangainath is the birthplace of Mars. In ancient times, it was famous for a clear view of the red planet and hence suitable for astronomical studies. Gopal Mandir (open 6 am-11 pm) within Patni bazar ie. the market square was constructed by Bayajibai Shinde, the queen of Maharaja Daulat Rao Shinde, in the 19th century. It is a beautiful example of Maratha architecture. The sanctum is inlaid with marble and the doors are silver-plated. The door in the inner sanctum is said to have been carried to Ghazni from the Somnath Temple and from thence by Mahmud Shah Abdali to Lahore. The Scindia ruler Mahadji Scindia recovered and installed it in this temple. There are some more temples as well.

WHERE TO STAY

There is no shortage of stay options in Ujjain. The street leading to the Mahakaleshwar temple has a great many lodges and dharamshalas. A decent budget hotel with cost anything ₹1000/ and upwards.  

It's time to move on...

#6 Bhopal  

Bhopal the capital city of M.P. is roughly 4 kms from Ujjain. Regular private buses via Dewas, ply on this route. Bhopal was founded in the 11th century by the Paramara king Raja Bhoja whose capital city is Dhar. The city attracted international attention in the 1984 Union carbide disaster.

After having followed a strictly vegetarian diet at the temple towns these past few days, I yearned for some non-veg fare. The city had been part of the British princely states and ruled by the Nawabs of Bhopal until India gained independence in 1947. As such a vast segment of the population are Muslims; Nawabi style Mughlai cuisine thrived and is still popular in the gullies of Old Bhopal.

Things to do in Bhopal 

Culinary experience 

My mouth watered for mutton stewed with butter and veggies, for rice speckled with strong scented cardamoms, for the saffron-tinted rice, garlic and onions, and the forbidden greasy sweetmeats of the bazars. So the next day I made my way to Chowk bazar in the heart of the city. and Chatori gulli in Old Bhopal. 

Savouring Bhopal's heritage of Nawabi cuisine

One of Bhopal's most delicious offerings is a meltingly soft delicacy tucked in a bun washed down with hot chai. For lunch, kebab, biryani with hot & crispy jalebis~ are a great combo. 

Hot & crispy jalebis

Chatori Gali in Ibrahimpur is a narrow lane.. the 1st place Bhopalis will recommend for a bite.  Try their favourite 'dilli ka nalli nihari', nargisi kofta, boti and shami kebab. Bhopali filfora~ most unique dish made of Turkey breast marinated and slow - cooked and finally wash it all down with phirni.

And while you are in the city, also visit the Tribal museum and the State Archeological museum.

Day trips from Bhopal....

Bhimbetka Prehistoric Rock Shelters

Bhimbetka Rock Shelters are nestled within the rugged terrain of the Vindhya Range in Madhya Pradesh. Thrse prehistoric rock shelters range from 12,000 years to the chalcolithic age (also referred to as the Copper age).

Pre-historic rock paintings at Bhimbetka - M.P. Please zoom in

Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, Bhimbetka attracts archaeologists, researchers and tourists alike.

How to reach Bhimbetka-

From Bhopal get into a bus heading towards Obaidullahganj- approx 1 hr/ 40 kms along a smooth highway. Ask to be dropped at the nearest bus stop to Bhimbetka. You might be dropped around MPT Highway Retreat on the main highway. From here cross the railway phata and walk for about 1- 1½ km along a quiet scenic splendid road towards Bhimbetka rock shelters.

A scenic road leading to Bhimbetka 

TIP: You can easily cover this place as a day-trip from Bhopal 

A scenic road leading to Bhimbetka 

The rock paintings found here provide a fascinating window into the lives of ancient communities, showcasing their hunting techniques, social structures, and cultural practices.

Pre-historic Rock painting - Bhimbetka M.P.

Sanchi (Vidisha)

Sanchi is a Buddhist complex dating back to the Mauryan era ie. 3rd BCE, is an important halt along the Buddhist pilgrimage trail. Among the numerous well-maintained stupas is The Great Stupa

The Great Stupa of Sanchi is said to be one of the oldest stone structures in India. Tourists from Srilanka and S.E.Asian countries flock here all year round. 

Ujjain —› Bhopal —› Gwalior —› Orchha —› Khajuraho

Let's move northwards...

#7 Gwalior  

Gwalior in northern M.P. lies 430 kms from Bhopal and one can easily cover the distance by an overnight 8 hrs train journey. Gwalior is a historic city— its fortress has been ruled by several ancient kingdoms prior, such as~ the Gurjara Pratihara dynasty (5th to 8th century AD). It later fell into the hands of the marauding Delhi Sultanate in the 12 CE, then to the Mughals (16 CE). With the decline of the Mughal empire it passed into the hands of the Jats, Marathas and ultimately came into the Scindias dynasty, who were also part of the Marathas. 

Things to do in Gwalior 

Jai Vilas Palace museum 

Entrance to the Fort Palace museum at Gwalior 

The imposing Palace was constructed in 1874 by Maharaja Jayajirao Scindia of the Scindia dynasty. There is a hefty ₹300/- entry fee for Indians and ₹700/- for foreigners, but I assure you it's worth it! I think there is also a separate fee for camera although I'm not sure.

The palace museum displays the elegant and rich interiors of the palace, the dining table and it's impeccable crockery and cutlery all laid out, a collection of princely robes and war armors as well as weapons used for watfare. Keep atleast a couple of hours to make your money's worth — a rare moment to glimpse into the lifestyle of Indian royalty.

Gopalchand Jain parvat and Gwalior fort

Jain rock-cut monuments ~ Gwalior

The Jain rock-cut monuments are dated sometime between the 14- 15th CE. Located 14 kms from Gwalior city centre, you can visit this place alongwith the majestic Gwalior fort that is just a short walking distance ahead. The site is an open secluded area which gets dark by evening, so try getting here a bit earlier for a calming experience.

The Gwalior fort history goes back to the 5th century, or perhaps to a period earlier when it called Gopgiri in Sanskrit. The source for this lies etched on the inscriptions within the fort ~ making it one of India's oldest defence fort still in existence.

The majestic Gwalior fort 

The fort as we see it today was built by the Tomar Rajput king, Man Singh Tomar (1486–1516 CE). The various other monuments within the fort's premises bears witness to the Guptas, Hunas, Pratiharas, Kachhwahas, Tomars, Muslim invaders like the Pathans, Surs, later the Jats and British until it ultimately came into the hands of the Maratha Scindias— all of whome left their mark here.

There are few other placesnin Gwalior city, such as~ Birla Sun temple, Mohammad Ghous tomb, and Maharani Laxmi bai Chhatri.

Ending my day with a hot bowl of rich Tomato Basil soup just the way I want it...

#8 Orchaa  

Orchaa is yet another historical town in northern M.P. It was established around 1501 CE by a Bundela Rajput king named Rudra Pratap Singh (r. 1501-1531). The Bundela dominion infact covered a much larger area, which also included Tikamgarh and Jhansi. By 1635 the region suffered an onslaught at the hands of the Mughals.

Things to do in Orchha 

Orchha fort 

The large quadrangular pavilion open yard surrounded by palaces~ Orchha fort, Chhattarpur M.P.

The once glorious fort, although still retaining some of its charm in mostly in ruins. The fort can be accessed through a large gateway. As you enter into the large quadrangular open yard surrounded by palaces. 

A glimpse of the pavilion from the fort corridors 
 

Other spots within the fort complex are~ Raja Mahal, Sheesh mahal and other interesting features such jharokhas, decorated window lattices etc.

Chaturbhuj Temple (Orchha) 

The temple complex is a blend of fort, temple and palatial architectural features strikingly similar to the temples of Khajuraho; but minus the erotica. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu is located in Orchha town outside of the Orchha fort complex. 

Also worth visiting are the many decorative chhatris. 

#9 Khajuraho  

Khajuraho is a quiet town that would have gone unnoticed if it hadn't been for the incredibly beautiful internationally acclaimed Khajuraho group of monuments.  

Most Khajuraho temples were built between 885 CE and 1000 CE by the Chandela dynasty. Khajuraho is said to have had 85 temples by the 12th CE spread over a vast area, of which now only 25 are remaining within the 6 sqkm temple complex. These belong to both Hindu and Jain traditions.

The temples are famous for their Nagara style of architecture  

Nagara style of architecture temple ~ Khajuraho

The Nagara style was prevalent in Northern, Western and Eastern India. Some other famous temples in this category are the ~ Jagannath temple, Puri and Konark Sun temple also in Orissa (Konark). The Chandela sub-style of temples thrived in Central India, particularly Khajuraho.

The intricately carved sensual and erotic theme panels of Khajuraho temples

Evocative imagery, Sensuality and Erotism ~ are the main reasons for the temples to be talked about in hush-hush tones. The intricately carved sensual and erotic theme panels can make even the most unconventional person blush.

phulkas with salad and mixed veg paneer gravy, just the way I want it 

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