In 1864, Shimla was declared as the summer capital of the British Raj, when it was nothing more than a dense forest in the Himalayas. When the summer heat of Calcutta became unbearable, the cool climatic conditions of Shimla found favor among the ranks of the British top brass and bureaucracy. They journeyed 1000s of miles from Calcutta~ the official headquarters; It made me wonder, why on earth didn't they pick Darjeeling instead?!
Here they engaged in parties, dances and flirtations.
An Uphill, but memorable journey!
During those early days, a narrow mountain trail stood between Kalka-Pinjore, at the foothills of the Shivalik mountain range, and Shimla. I reckon they managed the uphill climb with the help of ponies.
Today the same journey is done by a heritage toy train.
After an overnight journey, starting from Dehradun [14631- DDN ASR EXPRESS, 19:05 hrs]~ I reached Chandigarh at 02:32 hrs the following day. I then boarded another train [25 mins additional] to reach Kalka. Desperately in need of a break before my next journey, I spent an hour or two at Kalka railway station, before boarding SHIVALIK EXPRESS [dept Kalka 05.30 am] which I found to be rather convenient.
đź’ˇKalka is the last station on the broad gauge. It also is the terminus/ starting point of narrow gauge trains to Shimla. Kindly refer to the IRCTC website for the Kalka-Shimla train schedule.
Should you need it, Kalka railway station has decent free waiting rooms plus an Executive AC lounge [₹20/ hour] that is relatively decent with comfy sofas and clean restrooms to freshen up.
The 4½ hours/ 90 kms train ride seemed a lot at first, but it was certainly endearing. This was my first visit to Himachal Pradesh and the views of the mountainscapes throughout the journey had me mesmerised. The train rumbled off with its bright carriages passing through evergreen coniferous forests. It halted briefly at Barog railway station for refreshments.
Below video- Vistadome experience, Kalka-Shimla heritage train
đź’ˇThe alternative option to reach Shimla is by road ie approx 3 hours. Taxi/ Shared taxi- I could only find private taxis that charge ₹650/ pp. Buses ply from Kalka bus stand, located about 1.2 km from the Kalka railway station. Autos quote ₹80- ₹100, but if you are willing to walk a bit further, you should find a shared auto for ₹30/ pp.
From Chandigarh- If you plan on taking a bus, do so from Chandigarh ISBT, as they take the by-pass, thereby avoiding Kalka-Pinjore.
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| The quaint Shimla railway station that was opened much later in 1903. |
Best time to visit Shimla
March to June is pleasant with an average temperature of 15° C. Shimla looks to be in a permanent state of Christmas 🎄 when it snows from Dec to Feb, but those are chilly days.
Where to stay in Shimla
Similar to other touristy hillstations; there are a wide variety of budget, mid-range and upscale hotels. If you're considering a Work-Stay-Travel option, I know of a hostel that charges ₹4000/ month (food not incl). Do comment if you need this info.
Shimla's Tudorbethan and Neo-Gothic architecture from the British Colonial era
In 1819, Lieutenant Ross who served as a political agent of the British Raj, built a humble wood cottage here. A few years later, his successor, Charles Pratt Kennedy improvised it into a suitable residence. Kennedy Cottage is the first British house in Shimla. Today it houses the CPWD office.
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| Kennedy Cottage, presently CPWD office is The first British era house in Shimla |
Location- Chaura maidan, opp. railway station
The only signs of civilization before the British arrived here was the Jakhoo temple and a few scattered houses. As more British officers came to vacation or perhaps socialise with their higher ups; the number of dwellings grew. News spread, and reached the ears of distinguished ladies looking for prospective marriage alliances for their relatives. All this evidently led to much socialising.
Bazars were set up to cater to the needs of a growing community. The Ridge on Chaura maidan used to be the Upper bazar. But it wasn't long before a suspicious fire broke out clearing the natives that inhabited here, and making way for an exclusive British settlement. A number of buildings took shape thereafter, such as~
The Anglican Christ church (1850)
A Town hall (1851) and
The Gaiety Theatre (1887)
The Viceroy, Lord Lytton was himself a playwright, while the Gaiety stage had the likes of Rudyard Kipling.
At one end of the Mall road is Scandal Point, a memory of SHIMLA'S once libertine lifestyleđź’•. As one walks down the slopes towards Rivoli busstand, is an open-air ice skating rink (presently being refurbished).
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| Christ Church, Shimla (1850) is built in Neo-Gothic style. Location- The Ridge |
The natives of The Ridge were forced to settle in the Middle and Lower bazars, which is still a vibrant and interesting bazar. Among the Indian business communities that came to Shimla were Parsis, Soods and Bengalis amongst others. The Bengali community built the Kali Bari temple (1854).
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| Lower pic is taken from above ie basically overlooking the Mall road |
Subsequently several roads were widened. Construction of the Hindustan-Tibet road began in 1851-52.
WHY SHIMLA, AND NOT DARJEELING?!
During the 1857 Uprising that spread across India, it was observed that Europeans in Shimla were unaffected. Being located midway across India, Shimla was also a convenient option for government officials from the North-west provinces (ie. present-day Pakistan).
VICEREGAL LODGES FOR VICEROYS & GOVERNORS
After living in a rented house for a while, Robert Bulwer-Lytton- Viceroy (in service from 1876 to 1880) proposed building The Viceregal lodge (1888), although the word 'lodge' seemed rather inappropriate for such an imposing building.
Viceregal lodge was designed in typical Jacobethan style by Henry Irwin; the same architect who designed New Delhi. It's purpose was to serve as the residence of British Viceroys in India. The first occupant was Lord Dufferin (1888), and the last to leave was Lord Mountbatten (1947).
Due to the growing number of high-profile British officials, a second Viceregal lodge was built in the Tudor style, ie. all frames and traditional roof. Peterhof's first occupant was James Bruce, 8th Earl of Elgin who moved here in 1863.
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