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BADAMI lies in the Deccan plateau region of North Karnataka. It was once the regal capital of ancient India's BADAMI CHALUKYA DYNASTY [540 - 747 CE]; thus making it captivating from a historical viewpoint.
Getting to BADAMI
Badami lies 450 km/ 8½ hrs north of Bangalore & approx the same distance south of Pune. The most convenient nearest railway station is HUBLI JN. 100 km/ 2 hrs away. There are good bus services from Hubli to Badami.
Tip~ My best bet to save valuable travel hours; Take a week long leave and make a combo trip- HAMPI + BADAMI and AIHOLE - Pattadakal.
Best time~ Winters from Nov-Jan. Summers (March to June) are hot. Since the terrain is dry and rocky expect temperatures to go even beyond 35° in peak summer.
It took us 4 hrs (150 km) from Hampi to Badami. Karnataka tourism hotel was quite frankly the only decent place I could find online so we decided to book upon reaching there. It certainly isn't cheap but I was lucky to split the cost with Mon, my South Korean friend who I met in HAMPI.
Karnataka tourism's Badami guest house is located close to the historical sites. Their rooms are super spacious and give a luxurious feel. Plus the good thing is, they also have an in-house restaurant that serves delicious food.
What to see and do in Badami
"What do you think of my new outfit?" asked Mon. She was wearing a light blue, green printed cotton salwar kurti that looked so cool. "👌" I said. It was 24° even on a winter evening and cottons are generally perfect for this region. But who's to stop young local tourists from wearing hot pink polyester shirts and long flowing frocks.
Bhootnath temple
The Bhutanatha temple located within the emerald green Agastya lake is a sight to behold.
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| Bhootnath temple, BADAMI Karnataka- is an ancient group of temples built between 7th to 12th CE |
The temple is dedicated to SHIVA and is built in typical CHALUKYA style of architecture. We took over an hour to admire it's beauty and click photos.
After leaving the temple precincts, we saw a lane going somewhere, so we decided to follow it. The winding lanes were in sharp contrast to the beautiful temple surroundings and passed through a dingy-looking village. The inhabitants seemed like muslims. Well, the fact is the Deccan region was a seat of power for Deccan Sultanates, no wonder then this place also has a significant muslim population. Not wishing to waste any time, we left the place quickly.
Badami cave temples
During ancient times, monks and rishi-munis found natural caves as an excellent refuge to meditate and contemplate, far from the crowds. As time passed by, they transformed these rough hewn rocks into a thing of beauty. Whether it is Mahabalipuram, the marvels of Ajanta-Ellora or Badami: there are many such examples of rock-cut cave temples throughout the country. What makes Badami stand apart is that the rocks are flaming red in color.
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| Climbing up the rock-cut cave temples of BADAMI Karnataka |
Since the cave temples are significant from a historical viewpoint, guides are available (languages- Kannada, Hindi and English). There are 4 main cave temples all exquisitely carved. Caves 1-3 represent Hinduism's main gods Shiva and Vishnu, whereas Cave 4 is dedicated to Jainism. In all cases the richly carved pillars of the Mantapa hall and sculptures are just beautiful. If you have the time, there are many other cave temples.
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| A view of Badami town from atop the cave temples |
Recollecting the beer episode in Hampi, I wondered why I didn't think about this before... So I went straight to the counter and inquired in my most sophisticated tone "Do you serve beer?!" "Sure- how many do you want?" said the receptionist in return. My confidence surged like hell! "3 beers" I replied, feeling that would be adequate. "Anything to eat?" asked the guy taking my order. So we ordered Chinese starters. "Send it to our room," I said with a swirl in my finger.
WoW!! That was just awesome 😎 so we spent the evening watching TV over beers and starters.
< DAY 2 >
AIHOLE and PATTADAKAL historical sites
Day 2 was devoted for a visit to PATTADAKAL and AIHOLE, both within 35 km on the same route. If you are a lover of history, these places will be totally rewarding.
Tip- In case you plan on using public transport, get on the bus going towards AIHOLE. Bus frequency is pathetic and the road passes through the rustic country side, so it's better to start the day early.
Tip- A guide will be helpful in explaining the historical and architectural nuances of these monuments. The challenge may be getting a Hindi/ English speaking one. Negotiate well.
The CHALUKYA EMPIRE monuments are an eclectic blend of both northern and southern style of architecture. As we stepped into the large complex at PATTADAKAL, I was mesmerized by the beauty of this place and how well it is preserved.
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| Virupaksha temple complex at PATTADAKAL Karnataka |
There are many temples with names such as Virupaksha temple 740-745 CE (now to be confused with Hampi Virupaksha temple), Kakasiddeshwar temple, etc. Sadly since I didn't get a proper guide.Roughly 10 kms ahead in AIHOLE that has an interesting mix of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain monuments. But we only clicked photos at both places and returned to our hotel.
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