While the cities of today are no more than a human zoo, life in the jungle is raw and real. A visit to Mudumalai National Park (Tamilnadu) is like turning the pages of Rudyard Kipling's Jungle Book.
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| Forest trek at Mudumalai NP, Tamil nadu |
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Day 1 >
PYKARA WATERFALLS, OOTY
The much-hyped Pykara waterfalls (20 kms from Ooty), was my first stop for the day, before heading onward to Mudumalai. The waterfalls look somewhat different and is in fact, the Pykara river~ as it flows gently in layers from top to bottom. Beautiful to look at, but the foul smell similar to sewage water was disturbing, though I'm not sure why?!
MASINAGUDI is the first point of entry to Mudumalai NP if you are arriving from Ooty
Masinagudi, they say has a few homestays hosted by locals, and I was eager to meet one! It was past lunchtime and I was torn between finding a stay and finding a meal; so I bought some snacks and asked the locals if they knew of any reasonably priced guesthouses.
They directed me to a place (sadly I don't remember the name), but I remember walking with my luggage for at least 20 mins, asking directions until I reached a cabana style resort/ hotel. Although the location is stark, the room was simple, comfy and clean. ( 750 rs/ single person/ night).
SHORT FOREST TREK AT MUDHUMALAI NP
Distance - 6/ 7 kms
Level - Easy/ Leisure
After a shower and short siesta, much to my surprise the hotel guys asked me if I was interested in a short trek within the forest. 'You mean walking inside the forest?', I reiterated. Spotting animals from a vehicle is one thing but coming face to face with a tiger or elephant while walking in the wild is unimaginable. It was exciting and scary at the same time. 'Don't worry, I'm an expert guide' he said, pointing to his cameo print waistcoat.
Tip : Things to carry for Mudumalai NP~ decent pair of shoes, portable emergency lights or flashlights, some warm clothing, pocket knife, fruits and nuts snacks, camera.
We began the trek around 4 pm. The initial trail was plain grassland with some places showing signs of being trod upon. We had walked less than a mile until we reached this spot ~ as perfect as the Garden of Eden. I threw my bag on the lawn and did a 360° turn just gasping at how awesome it felt. The early setting sun rays added to the glow around the forest.
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| a herd of deer seen running at Mudumalai NP, Tamilnadu |
All of a sudden my guide pointed ahead and right in front of me, a herd of deer ran at lightning speed, hardly giving me a chance to get steady pics. Here and there we saw animal droppings and interesting anthills which bears and some animals feed upon.
About an hour into the jungle, we met another local guy who told us 3 tigers had attacked and eaten an elephant 🐘 roundabouts a week back. 'Selvan, should we continue or is it better to return?' I asked my guide, trying to sound casual. 'oh no problem, no problem'. And so we continued...
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| Found elephant skull in the forest at Mudumalai NP, Tamilnadu |
After walking a bit deeper into the forest, we came by a beautiful clearing of green grass with bones and an enormous elephant skull. There were no signs of the tusks, which had me wondering ~whether this was really the Law of the Jungle or the work of poachers.
Undoubtedly like many other wildlife reserves, Mudumalai also has been a hotspot for poaching. The Forest dept has been keeping a strict vigil and working hard to break these networks.
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| Sitting beside a brook during my Mudumalai forest trek |
Now we reached stretches of dry brook and streams, and here I got my guide to click some pics. A wild nilgiri langur was watching me closely and the air was full with the sound of birds. I wondered how challenging it must be for wildlife photographers to get awesome pics.
Towards the end of the trail we got to a different road altogether, and didn't need to return the same way through the forest. The sun was setting fast. But I got to see one last show before I end my day ~ of two tuskers having a fight. It looked really scary and we dared not get closer.
Tip : Most guesthouses have an in-house restaurant, but in some cases you need to inform them ahead for dinner.
Day 2 >
'Things will look better in the morning.” – Bagheera ( Jungle Book)
After an extraordinarily eventful evening the previous day, somehow my subconscious mind didn't let it rest right there. Nightmarish dreams of tigers, elephants and the jungle haunted me through the night.
Masinagudi --> Theppakadu ( 8 km)
THEPPAKADU is the first and most frequented point of entry for visitors arriving from Mysore and Bangalore
I got to know that the majority of Tamil Nadu forest rest houses are located here, and they also have dormitories which are reasonably cheap. My joy 💞 knew no bounds at the idea of spending another day in this beautiful forest.
The reception and booking office are in plain sight 📱0423-2526235, opposite the bus stop. It was Friday, and after a short wait I succeeded in getting a full dormitory at 490 rs. ( note : current rates may vary). WoW!! In times like this~ is when I miss family and friends most! A complete dorm with 4 beds all for myself.
Tip : Weekends and holidays can be tough to find a stay due to many group bookings. However are generally great timing for forest safaris which need more pax
The more expensive forest dept log houses are deeper inside the forest, and they say herds of elephants and deer pass by each evening. There are many other private resorts, which I imagine would be expensive with similar locations.
Since my dorm was neighbouring the reception office, I also had a caretaker cum cook who prepared food for the officials. Laxmi, my Tamil-speaking caretaker, recommended chicken curry, pulav, and tomato chutney (extra charges).
THE STORY OF VEERAPPAN : SANDALWOOD TERROR
While it is true that I understand very little Tamil, it's not so hard to understand another person's emotions. As we got about chatting while I helped string the beans and peel the onions, Laxmi began her story about the days when her husband was part of Veerappan's gang. She continued narrating a great deal that I found hard to understand. 'Umh, umh'.. and then she choked while explaining how her dear husband was shot dead during an encounter with police forces.
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| Veerappan, the dreaded Sandalwood and ivory poacher from Mudumailai forest, India (courtsey: https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-21450046) |
Who was Veerappan?
Veerappan was nothing more than a cowherd during his childhood, but grew up idolising Sevia Gounder and Malayur Mammattiyan who were then dreaded poachers and bandits. He took over from there, and soon after became the bulls eye target owing to his Sandalwood and Ivory poaching. He earned millions from this illegal trade, and earned popularity among the poor locals who he supported financially. Locals in turn helped him escape from the police.
The forests of Mudumalai cover the states of Tamilnadu (to the south), and Karnataka (to the north). It was only on Oct 18, 2004 during the rule of J.Jayalalitha, when the Tamil Nadu State Special Task Force was finally able to nail him down.
Like Laxmi, many ex-members from Veerappan's gang have now been rehabilitated and meaningfully occupied as forest guides and workers.
After a great story that ended with a delicious dinner, I finally turned in for the night.
Day 3 >
ATTRACTIONS AT THEPPAKADU
A forest safari, either by jeep or 32-seat canter, is the main attraction of most wildlife reserves. Safari timings are early mornings and evenings. As it has happened before during my trip to Anamalai tiger reserve, I was left waiting, with just one other family for the safari, which obviously got cancelled as it didn't meet the numbers.
Tip : There are many local jeep safari operators. Being in a group helps keep the cost low.
THEPPAKADU's ELEPHANT CAMP
Around evening, elephants at the camp are first bathed in the nearby river and then followed by being fed, and performing their puja rituals. Kids and foreign tourists find it especially enjoyable. Timing : 5.30 to 6 pm. Entry ticket : 30 rs
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| an elephant getting bathed |
THE FOREST AT EVENING
Is sensational as always. Plenty of birds, peacocks, bison and deer can be seen in the open surroundings. It is quite a feast for the eyes!
Tomorrow I shall head to Mysore, from where I plan to explore places of interest in and around Mysore.
Bye for now!
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