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An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
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The Old Dutch town of THARANGAMBADI (TRANQUEBAR) : Coastal Tamil Nadu

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Previous blog ~ 5 lesser-known temples of TamilNadu 


Tharangambadi is a quiet fishing village along the coast of Tamil Nadu that was once a port for trade between India and Dutch lands during the 1600s. It is ideal for a quiet weekend of solitude.

Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) blog
Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) blog


Getting here :

Tranquebar (Tharangambadi) is 270 kms South of Chennai, and will take approx 6 hours long drive along the scenic ECR. If you plan on using public transport, buses are available from Koyambedu bus stand and anywhere on the East coast road.

The closest railway stations are- Nagore 23 km / NAGAPATTINAM 30 km & Mayiladuthurai 26 km


After an early breakfast, we had no difficulty in covering the 8 kms bus ride from THIRUKADAIYUR to Tharangambadi.

As the town awakens slowly, we walked a bit further down the bus stand to seek lodgings and were directed to a rather quaint looking old Dutch house. This was just what I was looking for ! although a bit further from the beach, this old world charm was well within our budget.


Staying at Tranquebar:

There are a few expensive hotels here, one of them is The Bungalow on the Beach- a 17th century Danish bungalow now converted into a pricey heritage hotel. 

But if you are a budget traveler do check with locals for some inexpensive homestay closer to the village beyond the bus stand. The Old Dutch house we stayed at cost around 400 rs/ night, but sadly I do not remember the name.


A bit of history and timeline of  Tharangambadi 

Tharangambadi's historical significance began sometime during the 13- 14th century when a Pandyan king built the Masilamaninathar Shiva temple on the shores of this tiny hamlet which still stands to this day. This is the second shore temple we have seen since Mahabalipuram.


From 1600 - 1634, Tharangambadi was being ruled by the Thanjavur Nayaks under Maharaja Raghunatha Nayak. During this period the Danish East India company was set up ( 1616 AD) with the intention of establishing trade with India.


Subsequently, an envoy by the name of Ove Gjedde was sent at the behest of the King of Denmark to meet Maharaja Raghunatha Nayak with the request of setting up a Danish trade colony. The request was granted for a neat sum of 3111 rs as annual rent.


The arch gate leading to King's street, Tranquebar
The arch gate leading to King's street, Tranquebar

King's street, Tranquebar
King's street, Tranquebar 


The heart of Lutheran Protestantism in India 

On 19 Nov 1620 Tranquebar as the Dutch called it, was established and the beautiful Fort Dansborg was built.

Fort Dansborg, Tharangambadi (Tranquebar)
Fort Dansborg, Tharangambadi (Tranquebar)

The Portuguese who conquered Goa during 1500s were devout Roman Catholics. The Danes on the other hand were *Protestants. By the 1700s Protestant ( Pentecostal and Lutheran) missionaries arrived on the shores of Tranquebar and brought with them their version of Christianity.

 

*Protestantism is a sect of Christianity that broke out of the Roman Catholic Church. In the course of time various other sects and sub-sects of Christianity were formed. Their philosophy may have certain variations as compared to others.

 

The most notable missionary was Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg, a Lutheran clergyman who arrived here on 9 July 1706. Besides converting the natives, he is credited to have translated the Bible (both Old & New Testament) into the local language -Tamil.

 

The New Jerusalem Lutheran church at Tharangambadi
The New Jerusalem Lutheran church at Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) was built in 1718 by Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg a Danish clergyman and missionary
 

 

The Zion Church at Thanrangambadi is yet another beautiful church from that period (1701) which many believe to be the first Protestant church in India.

 

Tranquebar thrived as a Danish trade settlement well until 1845, when the British took over from there.

 

Exploring Fort Dansborg 

A view of the sea from Fort Dansborg, Tharangambadi
A view of the sea from Fort Dansborg, Tharangambadi 

 

It was a fruitful but tiring day. During the time spent in exploring the fort, we noticed a man picking on the soft earth surrounding the fort. He seemed to have unearthed fragments of indigo dutch pottery. It was so fascinating, plus the good man offered me a few fragments for keepsake.

 

As the evening drew near, I developed a severe headache. With all that excitement, I realised that I had missed lunch and wasn't feeling too well. 

 

After a simple but satisfying meal of idli dosa sambar I popped in a headache pill and slept soundly till the next morning.

Next stop~ Point Calimere KODIKKARAI


Thanks for reading. Your comments will be appreciated. Bye for now!

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