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Previous blog~ A historical tour of GULBARGA-BIDAR
HYDERABAD DIARIES
It's been 10 days since I left Bangalore on a relentless quest for history. The experience and knowledge gained is quite fascinating. But the stark Deccan landscape did very little to satisfy my cravings for junk food and creature comforts that only a big city could afford... And here I was pretty close to one!
Hyderabad, the capital of Telangana state is a major metropolis and booming IT hub of India. "Always a pleasure to take a break from time to time...", said a small voice inside me as I boarded the bus from Bidar to Hyderabad (apprx 4 hour road journey).
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Checked into a classy hotel at Hyderabad
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| A relaxing hot shower after a hard day's work |
Unable to recollect the last time I stayed at a classy place, I decided to think no further and booked myself at one with the best deal. After a relaxing hot shower and a few hours rest, I looked up my phone in the hope of finding a friend or acquaintance from roundabouts...
And finally there it was! RR was ex office colleague from Hyderabad who was kind enough to plan an evening out. Club8 is a vibrant pub with an eclectic mix of people~ office goers in dire need of a break, couples, friends etc... "There's someone I want you to meet," said RR as we met at the gate. "Oh?!" I replied pretending to be surprised.
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| At Club8, Hyderabad. ..Vodka or was it gin? I don't remember! |
And full points to RR for introducing his wife, "Meet Revathi my wife". "Why didn't you come for my marriage?" he went on. "Oh I missed a good thing, I was travelling, so sorry," I replied while studying the liquor 🥃 section in the menu. After a peg of two I realised the place was heavily charged up with people having a good time. The evening passed off pleasantly as we stoked up old office gossip, chatted along and then winded up with an excellent dinner.
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| An excellent dinner followed by dessert |
: Day 2 :
Cityscapes, Glitzy shows and Theme parks
Being one of South India's top IT hubs along with Bangalore and Chennai, Hyderabad witnesses an ever-growing workforce from all parts of India. Gachibowli is the city's IT and Financial district. Urbanisation is on the rise and with it are a number of malls, pubs, chic restaurants etc that cater to young weekenders. Last evening RR's wife recommended Top 2 must do leisure activities in Hyderabad~
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| getting ready to start the day |
RAMOJI FILM CITY
RAMOJI FILM CITY is a much-hyped theme park situated 30 kms/ 1.15 hr from the main city center, so start the day early. Timings: 9 am to 9 pm.
The park is vast with a variety of attractions that could take anywhere from 3 hours to an entire day, so wear comfortable footwear. It is well-equipped with a food court, first aid / doctor on call, restrooms etc.
There are several packages starting from 599rs to 1200rs and can even go upwards. Since this was my first visit I opted for the least expensive one.
The theme is a movie studio setting and an all-rounder family past time. My favorites were the prop choreographed dance shows and the amazing photo ops.
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| A movie prop at Ramoji film city, Hyderabad |
Lumbini park, Sound & Light show
Lumbini park, situated on the banks of Hyderabad's Hussain Sagar Lake is quite a respite for city dwellers. Evenings and especially weekends are crowded. There is boating and a number of leisure activities held here, but the crowd-puller is the Multimedia laser fountain show held daily at 07.15 pm and weekends at 7.15 pm & 8.40 pm.
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| A giant size Buddha statue in the middle of Hussain Sagar Lake, Hyderabad |
: DAY 3 :
A back-breaking bike ride to NAGARJUNA SAGAR DAM
NAGARJUNA SAGAR DAM built across the River Krishna is an engineering marvel and India's pride. With 26 sluice gates measuring 14m high and 13m wide, it is the world's largest masonry dam and a must-visit place. Evidently this was on my bucket list. After browsing through the phone I met up with a fellow couchsurfer/ biker who had been also looking forward to this trip. But what I may have well underestimated is the agony of a 152 km/ 3 hr bike ride on terrible roads.
Tip ~ I'm unable to provide any inputs on the commute. So kindly check for bus services a day in advance.
The most endearing part of the trip to NJS dam is the cruise/ boat ride across the river Krishna. A one-way 45 min boat ride will take you to a tiny island that houses a museum with ancient Buddhist artefacts.
:: Day 4 ::
The bike ride to NAGARJUNA SAGAR DAM caused severe backache forcing me to stay back at the hotel. And so my mind drifted... to a time in history.
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| Sustenance |
HISTORY OF HYDERABAD
Excavations indicate the city of Hyderabad is as old as 500 BCE. It was part of the great Mauryan empire (3 BCE) and later the Sattavahans. Thereafter the Deccan region changed hands from one Hindu dynasty to another ~ Kalyani Chalukyas, Kakatiyas etc. As muslim invasions swept across the Indian subcontinent, Hyderabad and the rest of the Deccan came under the reign of the DELHI SULTANATE during the TUGHLAQ era. When the Tughlaq dynasty disintegrated it became part of the BAHMANI SULTANATE.
But the real credit for Hyderabad's identity goes to the GOLCONDA SULTANATE that emerged after the disintegration of the Bahmani dynasty.
:: Day 5 ::
Walking down the paths of history
Qutb Shah tombs
The Qutb Shah tombs are a cluster of tombs and mosques which is mostly the final resting place of Golconda's sultans, namely; Sultan Quli Qutb-ul-Mulk (r. 1518 to 1543 CE), Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah Wali (r. 1550 to 1580 CE): the great deceiver, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah (r. 1580 to 1612 CE) : a visionary Sultan, Muhammad Qutb Shah (r. 1612 to 1626 CE) and his wife Hayat Bakshi Begum and their son Abdullah Qutb Shah (r. 1626 to 1672 CE).
Golconda fort
Similar to Bidar and other forts, the Golconda fort is originally a legacy of the erstwhile Kakatiya dynasty that ruled much of South India and Odisha from 12th to 14th CE. Golconda and it's fort came into prominence during the Bahmani Sultanate reign when they made it their capital city.
It then passed into the hands of the Golconda Sultanate and finally fell into ruins during the Mughal rule.
There are guides who take you on a tour for a fee. But the crowd-puller here is the sound and light show in the voice of Amitabh Bachchan.
Charminar
The Charminar as well as the city of Hyderabad is a legacy of Golconda Sultanate's 5th Sultan, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah (r. 1580 to 1612 CE). His main objective was to bring relief from summer droughts, and hence Hyderabad on the banks of the Musi river was chosen to be the new capital city. To make this project a reality the Sultan employed architects from across the world.
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Charminar, Hyderabad
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The Charminar is basically a city gate crafted in typical Indo-Islamic style that was predominant at the time. It is situated in the busiest and most-crowded part of the Old city. Right across is Mecca masjid built during the same time.
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| The busy lanes of Hyderabad, a view from Charminar |
Nizami grandeur
By 1686, Mughal rule began sweeping towards South India and Hyderabad along with the rest of the Deccan region was incorporated into the Mughal Empire. The capital city was moved to Aurangabad (present-day Maharashtra) and Hyderabad was entrusted into the hands of a governor/ subhedar.
By 1714 Mughal emperor Farrukhsiyar appointed Asaf Jah as the new subhedar of Hyderabad. 11 years passed by and Asaf Jah now asserted his own independence from Mughal stronghold making Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jah I as the 1st Nizam of Hyderabad in 1724 CE.
Among the most endearing legacies from the days of the Nizams of Hyderabad are Salarjung museum and the Falaknama palace. The Faluknama palace is now converted into a luxury hotel~ the Taj Falaknama palace, and may be out of bounds for tourists.
Salarjung museum
The Salarjung museum established in 1951 is a unique museum that displays the private collection of artefacts belonging the Salar Jung family. They were significant during the Hyderabadi Nizam rule from 1720 and a year after India gained Independence in 1948. This is a must-visit for those who love history. Kindly check the official website of Salaj Jung museum for more info.
Thanks for reading through 🙏. I shall take your leave as I have a late-night train for Pune. If you enjoyed this article do explore the blog further, comment and share with those who might also like to read it.
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