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A Journey across India: The call to Adventure

An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar

SAYYID and LODI dynasty legacy: Delhi Sultanate from 1414 to 1526 CE

With the downfall of the TUGHLAQ DYNASTY (r. 1320 to 1414 CE) as a result of brutal Timurid invasions in 1398 CE, the Delhi Sultanate now had a new dynasty at it's helm. Timur's only purpose was loot and return to Samarkand. Anarchy, chaos and pestilence followed, out of which Firuz Shah Tughlaq's governor of Multan named KHIZR KHAN claimed he was appointed to rule on Timur's behalf. This claim was doubted by few in Delhi.


SAYYID DYNASTY RULERS (r. 1414 to 1450 CE)

đź‘‘ KHIZR KHAN (1414 to 1421 CE) 

Another claim about Khizr Khan being related to the reputed Sayyid lineage, is what gave this dynasty its name. However, this claim was unfounded and it was later stated that he was actually a Punjabi from the Khokhar tribe (ie. today's west Punjab, Pakistan). He served as governor of Multan during the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq and was a capable administrator. 

Even after assuming charge of Delhi Sultanate, he kept a low-profile and didn't take on the title of Sultan and ruled as vassal of Timur. During his reign~ Punjab, Sind and U.P. were consolidated into the Delhi Sultanate. With the help of his wasir, Taj-ul-mulk~ he plundered common peasants of Gwalior and Bayana and suppressed a rebellion in Rohilkhand (today's Barelly, U.P.).  


Blog on SAYYID & Lodi dynasty, Delhi Sultanate


đź‘‘ Sayyid Mubarak Shah (r. 1421 to 1424 CE) 

After Khizr Khan's death on 20th May 1421, his son Mubarak Shah became the next monarch. Contrary to his predecessor, Mubarak scrapped Timur's name on the coins and himself took on the title of Shah. Strangely enough, he was also acknowledged as one and even received a robe and chatr (royal parasol) from Herat (Timurid capital). 

During his reign, Mubarak Shah succeeded in subduing his rival, Jasrat Khokhar from Punjab thereby also bringing his territories under the fold of Delhi Sultanate.  Mubarak Shah was murdered in 1424 CE.  


đź‘‘ Muhammad Shah (r. 1434 to 1445) 

Muhammad Shah was Mubarak Shah's nephew and successor. The Sayyids had begun faltering; this Shah spent his time hunting and became an alcoholic. Not much is known about his rule. He eventually died in 1445 due to ill health. The only legacy he left behind is his tomb at Lodi gardens. 

Tomb of Muhammad Shah SAYYID, Lodhi gardens New Delhi
Tomb of Muhammad Shah SAYYID, Lodhi gardens New Delhi (1444 CE)

This is a single domed octagonal shaped tomb in Indo-Islamic architectural style. The roof is supported by arches adorned with intricate design carvings.

Nasir uddin Mohammad Shah coin 1440 to 1456 CE
Exhibit at Purana qila museum 

đź‘‘ Alam Shah (r. 1445- 1451)

After his father's death, Alam Shah ascended the throne of Delhi. A Sultanate that held sway over most of India (incl present day Pakistan and Bangladesh) had disintegrated and dwindled into nothingness. Its boundaries now extended from Delhi to Palam at the outskirts. 

Alam it seemed was disinterested and voluntarily abdicated his regency in favor of Bahlul Khan Lodi, an Afghan who had been vying for Delhi.  


LODI DYNASTY RULERS (r. 1451 to 1526 CE)

đź‘‘ Bahlul Khan Lodi (r. 1451 to 1489) 

Bahlul Khan Lodi origins can be traced to the Ghilzai Lodi tribe of Afghanistan. He was the nephew and son-in-law of Malik Sultan Shah Lodi, the governor of Sirhind in Punjab (India) under Muhammad Shah SAYYID, and succeeded him in the same capacity. Lodi was a powerful leader in Punjab and therefore held in high regard. After Alam Shah (SAYYID)  abdicated the throne and retired to Badaun (in today's U.P. state), Bahlul Khan Lodi saw this as an opportunity and founded the LODI DYNASTY of the Delhi Sultanate (1451). 

His reign was marked by his successes in curbing rebellions within his territory, one being a victory over and annexation of Jaunpur Sultanate. Thereafter he expanded the influence of the Delhi Sultanate to Gwalior, Jaunpur and upper U.P. 


đź‘‘ SIKANDAR SHAH LODI (r. 1489 to 1517 CE) 

After annexing Jaunpur, Bahlul Lodi had placed his second son Barbak in charge of  the region. Alongside, he nominated his eldest son Sikandar Lodi to the throne of Delhi. This brought both brothers in close conflict after their father's death in July 1489. Sikandar resolved the issue simply by expelling his brother Barbak and installing his own son Jalal Khan as ruler of Jaunpur.

portrait of Sikandar Lodi, Lodi dynasty
portrait of Sikandar Lodi, Lodi dynasty 

Sikandar Lodi's destruction of temples in Mathura 

Typical of his Islamic leanings, Sikandar Lodi's intolerance towards other religions was evident from his campaigns of temple destruction~ especially those in Mathura. 

Sikandar Lodi v/z Raja Man Singh Tomar 

Sikandar Lodi's toughest rival was Raja Man Singh Tomar, the rajput king of Gwalior. Declaring a jihad war against the Hindu king, Sikandar Lodi conducted many campaigns of destruction around Gwalior. His illogical frenzy of hate caused a destruction of crops and created a food shortage. He was even plagued by an epidemic due to which he lost a huge number of soldiers thereby forcing him to finally give up his campaign. Raja Man Singh's hit and run tactics made it impossible for Lodi to capture the fort of Gwalior. To make up for this personal defeat, Sikandar attacked smaller areas around Gwalior causing unnecessary loss of life and wealth.


Delhi to Agra
Agra, once an ancient hindu city was destroyed by earlier Delhi Sultanate rulers; Sikandar Lodi now decided to build a new Agra (1504 CE) on the rubble of the old city. Thereafter he moved his capital from Delhi to Agra. The reason for this move could be because it was located closer to Gwalior.

Sikandar Lodi's tomb at Lodi gardens New Delhi
Sikandar Lodi's tomb at Lodi gardens New Delhi 

Ultimately an illness got the better of him and he was forced to give up. He died of illness in 1517.


đź‘‘ Ibrahim Lodi (r. 1517 to 1526 CE)- the last Lodi sultan 

Ibrahim Lodi, Sikandar's eldest son did not hesitate to kill his brother Jalal Khan who was kept in charge of Jaunpur. This was a rash and short-sighted decision that did not age well for the following reasons ~ 
  • The threat of Mughal invasions was real and already at his doorstep
  • The Delhi Sultanate treasury/ resources was not the same as before, especially after Timurid raids.
  • He already has numerous oppositions to contend with

The fall of the Delhi Sultanate 

Despite being a remarkable warrior, Ibrahim Lodi lacked the subtle art of diplomacy; an art that he could use to form a confederacy so as to withstand the Moghuls. On hearing about Jalal Khan's death, Daulat Khan Lodi, governor of Lahore, Punjab who was embittered with Ibrahim joined hands with Rana Sanga and invited Mughal emperor Babur to wage a war on the Delhi Sultanate. 

What followed next was The Battle of Panipat in 1526 CE. Ibrahim Lodi was defeated and killed in the battle bringing the Lodi dynasty to its end. 

The Delhi Sultanate was now replaced by the Mughal Empire.

Legacies of Lodi dynasty in Delhi [photo gallery] 

Bada gumbad & mosque 

Bara gumbad mosque, Lodi gardens New Delhi

Tombs during the Lodi era were of 2 styles~ raised and octogonal. Example of an octogonal tomb is that of Muhammad Lodi.  

Above pic is a gumbad (tomb) and below is the adjoining mosque. A mehman-khana (guest house) was raised opposite the mosque. The grave from inside the tomb is missing, but going by the look of this structure; the person (whose grave it is) could be an important person during the reign of Sikandar Lodi.
Location: Lodi gardens, New Delhi


Shish gumbad 

Yet another tomb built during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. The names of people related to the graves are missing. 

Shish gumbad (tomb) Lodhi gardens New Delhi

Its facade is divided horizontally by a string course and with series of sunk niches running above and below it. Its mihrab (arch) to the western walls shows the tomb also served as a mosque.  

A mehrab (arch) inside a tomb or mosque
A mehrab (arch) inside a tomb or mosque 
Location: Lodi gardens, New Delhi



Gol gumbad 

This is a tomb belonging to the 15th CE  Lodi period. It has a square plan with a staircase leading to the terrace. Another feature of this simple yet stout structure is the battlements at the parapet level.  

Gol gumbad (tomb), 15th CE Lodi era- New Delhi

Location: On the road leading to Humayun's tomb, New Delhi 


Tomb of Imam Zamin
Imam Zamin was a native of Turkestan who came to India during the reign of Sikandar Lodi (r. 1488 to 1517 CE). Apparently he discharged some important duties in connection with the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque. 

This tomb was built in his lifetime, during the reign of Mughal emperor Humayun. Imam Zamin died a year later. 

Tomb of Imam Zamin at Mehrauli Delhi

One can clearly see the octogonal shaped drum on top, which is a typical Lodi design. The structure is 12 sqft (area) and 12 square pilasters support the superstructure. The spaces between them have perforated screen of red sandstone. The drum is decorated with a double row of  kanguras and marble panelling. 

Tomb of Imam Zamin, Mehrauli Delhi
Top- octagonal drum with dome, middle- doorway, Below- marble grave



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