After spending over a week exploring Srinagar, it was time for me to set out on perhaps the most exciting and highly-anticipated journey of my life. There are innumerable accounts of people who have undertaken the Srinagar - Leh - Manali route by road, and they swear to it being nothing short of a nail-biting experience, requiring a major shift in both— Attitude and Altitude.
Previous blog- Kashmir: changing seasons changing times
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Most of the tourism in this route happens in the months of June, July, and August.
Tip1- The Srinagar-Leh road NH1D is open early-June to mid-Nov. Do check BRO updates before starting your journey. I began my journey from Srinagar on 10th June.
HOW TO REACH LEH
The CHEAPEST WAY TO GET FROM SRINAGAR TO LEH is by public transport. JKSRTC runs a super deluxe 2x2 push-back 25 seater service at ₹620/ pax.
The bus starts from Srinagar early morning around 5 am and will make a night's halt at Kargil. Pax have to find their own accommodation at KARGIL. Btw, even if you opt for a private taxi or driving your own vehicle; you would still need to make a night halt at Kargil. Needless to say a private taxi trip costs a bomb, approx 4.5k/ per pax. Bookings for bus ticket and taxis can be done at Srinagar's New bus stand.
A reasonable budget room in Kargil can cost anything from Rs.500 to Rs.1000, with attached bath and running water.
Route and Stopovers
SRINAGAR (J&K) starting point
—> SONAMARG
—> DRASS, Kargil war memorial
—> KARGIL
—> ALCHI
—> LEH
—> KEYLONG
MANALI (Via: ATAL TUNNEL)
Day 1- 10th June
SRINAGAR —> SONAMARG
Tip2- If you wish to make a halt here; keep in mind Sonamarg is closed for tourism on Sat & Sun weekends. Most likely you will be sent back if found without any confirmed hotel booking.
Tip3- There is no direct shared cab service from Srinagar to Sonamarg. So you will have to opt for public transport all the way.
I was fortunate to get a direct e-bus (red color bus) from Dalgate till Ganderbal. Rs 30/ and then, another local bus from Ganderbal to Kangan Rs.15/. From Kangan, I boarded a shared cab straight to Sonamarg Rs. 120/ pax.
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| The perks of driving your own car- tourists make a quick stopover- to experience nature, enroute Sonamarg |
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| Tourists stop by a peaceful river enroute Srinagar to Sonamarg |
Where to stay in Sonamarg-
Unfortunately it's difficult to find any rooms below Rs.1200-2000 in online hotel booking sites. But I can assure you there's nothing to worry— There are several budget stay options within Sonamarg market. I was able to bargain for a place at Rs. 600/ night.
It was almost 2:20 pm and being quite tired from carrying my bags; I dozed off the wee afternoon hours. When I woke up around 4pm, the sky was cast with dark rain-bearing clouds. The best I could do was pick up some snacks and chai from the little shop across my guesthouse, browsed a bit and signed out for the day.
Day 2- 11th June
SONAMARG
My plan for the day was to trek to Thajiwas Glacier. So I got an early start- around 8ish after breakfast.
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| Ponies being fed, getting ready for the day's labor |
This is the pony trail that I was told leads to the glacier. Thajiwas glacier lies beyond these mountains, total trek distance approx 15 kms.
I walked slowly and steadily rejecting all the pony 🐴 ride offers along the way, for I felt the rates too steep for my liking (Rs.1500/ to and fro). The upward solo hill trek made me weary and lonely - so I sat awhile just soaking in the beauty of the snow-covered mountains around me.
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| A view of the jaw-dropping Sonamarg landscape |
I then had my own little adventure wandering around the meadows and lush pastures while clicking some pics— 'to hell with Thajiwas glacier' I said to myself, and returned to my guesthouse.
Journey, Sri'gar to Sonamarg- Rs 165/Stay, 2 nights - Rs 1200/
Food expenses - Rs 400/
Day 3- 12th June
DRASS, KARGIL
It was at the nick of time that I found a shared cab heading towards Drass-Kargil. After some bargaining, I secured the last remaining back seat of the vehicle for Rs.500/.
This route from Srinagar to Leh has 3 passes in between. The Zojila Pass at a height of 11,500 ft is right round the corner once you leave Sonamarg. Thanks to the efforts of BRO (Border Road organisation), the road conditions make the journey so much easier.
A flock of sheep traversing the Zojila Pass in search of fresh green pastures on the other side.
As the drive takes us past Zojila pass, a completely different terrain unfolds before our eyes— stark, desolate and dusty, but haunting nevertheless. If it wasn't for my travel sickness combined with a thyroid condition, I would have enjoyed the views even more.
Tip4- Zoji-La is closed for traffic between 4pm and 4am.
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| Welcome to Drass- the 2nd coldest inhabited place on earth, after Siberia. It is said the lowest recorded temperature so far is -60° (year: 1995) |
It was a balmy afternoon at 22° when I got dropped at The KARGIL WAR MEMORIAL.
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| I got dropped at Kargil War Memorial in DRASS |
KARGIL War memorial pays tribute to the brave soldiers who laid down their lives defending the nation during the Kargil War in 1999.
It was a truly nostalgic moment to witness the ground where our soldiers fought so bravely and laid down their lives defending this country.
I had completed the War Memorial visit by 1pm and contemplated on staying back for the night. However, most stay options in DRASS lie within DRASS market and they had all quoted steep rates ranging Rs.1500-2000, leaving me with no choice but to head 53 kms onwards to KARGIL. But here's the catch; running cabs along this route also quoted Rs.1500/ What a shame!
I was told the cheapest option would be the Govt e-bus (yellow color bus) at 4 pm that costs Rs.60/- so that's how I made it to KARGIL after a long wait.
At KARGIL, I negotiated for a room at Rs.500/ night. It was an excellent deal for a private room with a double bed and attached bath. Please Comment if you need the hotel details.
By this time I was quite sick and nauseous 🤢 probably due to the curvy road trip and change in altitude, so I swallowed a headache pill, browsed a bit and signed out for the day.
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| This is the main bazar where one can find reasonable stay options - Balti bazar, Kargil |
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| A bird's eye view of KARGIL main town |
Day 4- 13th June
KARGIL 8780 ft
Out of the few things to do in Kargil, one is getting a feel of the market; it's lively and exuberant- and I thought to myself what a wonderful remote-working destination this could make during the peak summer months. The WiFi is good and the market has just about everything that one could possibly need. I stopped by a small momo joint and ordered mutton mok mok (Ladakhi momos), chowmein and tea.
The people of Drass and Kargil are primarily Shia muslims of Mongloid features and characteristics. I'm saying this as I was expecting them to be 'Buddhists' instead.
Later I stopped by Munzhi Alam Bhat private heritage museum. This is a small private collectors museum of Central Asian and Kargil trade artefacts. The artefacts are recovered goods from Aziz Bhat Sarai; one of the leading Caravan Sarais of the region in the early 20th century. Kargil-Drass lay at the crossroads of flourishing trade routes from Punjab, Srinagar, Gilgit-Baltistan, Yarkhand and Central Asian region. Probably that is how Islam entered into the lives of Drass-Kargil inhabitants.
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| Munzhi Alam Bhat with his sons Munzhi Habibullah and Munzhi Abdul Rehman- Kargil, Ladakh 1945 pic |
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| Artifacts displayed at Munzhi Alam Bhat private collectors museum in Kargil |
KARGIL lies on the LoC. If you have your own bike or car, the drive to Hunderman LoC viewpoint and village is approx 10-13 kms from Kargil town. From here you get to see the Pakistani side, villages on the other side I had to skip it as there were no local vehicles plying on that route and private cabs were charging Rs.1500/.
Journey, S'marg-Drass-Kargil- Rs 560/
Stay, 2 nights - Rs 1000/
Food expenses - Rs 300/
Day 5-7: 14th, 15th & 16th June
LEH 11480 ft
The advantage of arriving in Leh from the Srinagar side is that; your body has ample time to get acclimatised to the higher altitude.
The distance between Kargil and Leh is approximately 215 kms. On the way, you will also cross the high-altitude passes of Namika La and Fotu La. But since the condition of the road is excellent for the most part, the journey can easily be completed in 6 hours.
I got the 6 am bus from Kargil to Leh, Rs.500/. As expected, the disadvantage of travelling by public transport is clear to see; the bus made just one 20 min stop enroute at Khalsey.
If you are travelling by your own vehicle~ you have the flexibility and advantage of making enroute stopovers at:
◾Mulbekh monastery- there is a big Buddha statue at Chaghu square nearby.
◾Lamayuru monastery 11520 ft- The oldest of all the monasteries, was founded in the 10th century.
◾ALCHI- Choskor monastery- 10,200 ft. The Alchi monastery was built in the 11th century by Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo. Alchi houses a few of the rarest and best specimens of medieval Buddhist art of Kashmir, which predates the Tibetan style seen in other Ladakhi gompas.
◾Likir monastery- was founded in the 11th century and has been part of the Yellow Sect since the 15th century. It contains images of the Buddha and a number of old manuscripts and thangkas.
You will also pass by-
◾Basgo, 10,790 ft, and
◾Magnetic Hill, 11,480 ft
It was past noon when we drew into Leh. The sun 🌞 was shining relentlessly. After checking into my hostel Rs.350/ night and a shower, I set out in search for a nice, warm meal.
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| Authentic and delicious Rasam rice- hotel khardongla, Leh |
Life is strange. You never know I might even find authentic Ladakhi food in Chennai someday.
I spent the next two days in Leh, doing far less than my fellow hoteliers.
Ancient Leh palace
This is the nine-storey palace built by King Singge Namgyal which is said to have inspired the Potala Palace in Lhasa.
Journey, Kargil to Leh- Rs 500/
Stay, 3 nights - Rs 1064/
Food expenses - Rs 850/
What to do and Where to go in Ladakh using public transport
🔷 Hemis Monastery and festival
locally known as Tshogkhang, is the wealthiest, grandest and busiest gompa of Ladakh. It was built in 1630 under the patronage of King Singge Namgyal. Its annual festival, Tze-Chu, is held in the summer in honour of the birth anniversary of Guru Padmasambhava, its religious patron and founder. It also has the largest thangka in Ladakh, which is unfurled once in 12 years. Hemis belongs to the Red (Kragyupa) Sect of Buddhism.
Padmasambhava is believed to have fought with demons for the safety of the people and this capped mountains, translucent lakes, triumph is re-enacted by lamas wearing brocade gowns, headgear and masks representing the guardian divinities or dharmapalas. The dances end with the destruction of a dough figure, symbolising cleansing of the soul after death.
This year (2024), the festival had started on 16 to 23 June 2024.
Getting there- 35 kms from Leh
Small buses opp. New bus stand go to Hemis. The bus caters to locals hence the ticket fare should be nominal.
🔷 Alchi
If you haven't been to Alchi yet, there are yellow e-buses from New bus stand, Leh to Alchi. Buses leave in the morning, however do check the timings a day before.
🔷 Nubra valley
New bus stand Leh to Nubra Valley
I saw a bus on Sun, around 7 am, Rs.240/. Nubra is actually at an even lower altitude than Leh city. Do check the timings a day before.
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| Buses to and from Leh, Timetable as on 16/ June 24 |
🔷 Pangong Tso lake
160km from Leh
Buses leave from New bus stand, Leh
Fri, Tue, 6.30 am bus. Rs.348/ fare
You may stop at Spangmik- Maan-Merak. Some guys says it's better to stay put at Maan, as there are reasonable stay options and internet connectivity here. However, keep cash handy and also be prepared for altitude issues, if at all.
🔷 The Sindhu Darshan Festival (Jun every year)
Is celebrated to honour the River Indus or Sindhu. The festivals follow the Tibetan calendar and astrologers usually prepare a new calendar just before the year begins.
This year 22 June 2024, I saw several Sindhu darshan tour buses heading towards Leh. If you wish to be part of the Sindhu darshan festivities check the government-maintained website leh.nic.in/tourism.htm for dates.
Day 8, 17th June
LEH to KEYLONG
Distance- 429 km/ 12-13 hrs approx
Himachal Pradesh govt buses started plying on this route around 14 June ‘24 after some test runs. They don't have any booking counter as such in Leh. In order to book your ticket, arrive a previous day at the New bus stand where the H.P. bus is parked, around 8.30- 8.45-9.00 am; no later as the tickets get sold like hot cakes. Get your ticket booked from conductor who is inside the bus.
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| Himachal transport bus parked at New bus stand, Leh. This bus goes upto Keylong. |
Strange way to book a bus ticket you might think; but considering the bus fare for Rs.670/ viz-a-vis Rs.4500/pax by shared cab, I find no good reason to complain.
The bus leaves at sharp 3:30 am daily from the New bus stand, Leh- so don't be late or you'll miss the bus.
A journey on Manali Leh highway will take you through an ever-changing landscape and challenges.
1- The altitude challenge
You will be crossing 5 high-altitude passes on this route.
The average elevation of the highway is 13,000 ft, with the highest elevation point being Tanglang La mountain pass at 17,480 ft.
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| Tanglang La mountain pass Ladakh at 17,480 ft |
2- The bumpy road challenge
The ‘bumpy road’ goes way beyond a few kms, maybe 50 kms- but I can't say for sure.
3- Landslide prone mountains on one side, a treacherous road and deep cleft edge on the other.
Route:
Karu— Upshi – Gya – Tanglang La – Pang – Lachulung La – Nakee La – Gata Loops – Sarchu – Bharatpur – Baralacha La – Zingzingbar – Darcha– Jispa – Keylong (night halt)
* Places of key interest above has been highlighted in 'mauve'.
If you plan on travelling by the govt. bus, I advise you to carry some eatables, as the bus leaves rather early at 03:30 am. We halted briefly at Tanglang La for loo break and continued on. The drive unfolded amazing landscapes before us. We were literally rolling over the top of the mountains. I struggled to keep my eyes shut (something I usually do to avoid motion sickness).
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We were rolling over the mountain tops, the snow-covered tips looked breathtaking. Leh to Keylong
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Out first proper break for breakfast was at Pang. The bus halted a good 30-40 mins for bus servicing etc. Here I ordered delicious bowl of maggie with cheese veggies and hot tea. The bumpy ride was causing the journey to be quite strenuous. A headache like sensation was gnawing at the back of my neck, so I swallowed a headache pill.
We continued onwards.... The mountains weren't surrounding us- We were over them now.
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| Rolling over the mountains— I could literally touch and feel the snow-covered mountains. Leh to Keylong. |
From thereon some parts of the journey went on smoothly, and the rest of the time the bus rocked violently- I kept my finger crossed🤞. I recollected the previous year's Spiti road trip and know for sure; with a Himachal transport bus crew, I'm in safe hands!
A caravan of nomads going past us: Leh-to-Keylong road.
One thing I need to mention here-
Leh - Manali route is also frequented by bikers and private vehicles alike. Many of these folks prefer to make an overnight halt at Pang and Sarchu (further on). Here are two stay options; private campsites which are expensive but hassle-free and offer higher degree of comfort. On the other hand is the cheaper option of Chadar tents organised by roadside dhaba owners. Chadar tents are typically dormitory-style row of beds placed alongside each other. I took a look at the loos they provide, and to put it mildly they were deplorable. If you opt for a Chadar tent bed, you might just end up answering nature's call in nature itself.
Next we halted at Sarchu for lunch, before driving further. We could see many campsites🎪 that looked so appealing. They say the sky in Sarchu looks brilliant with thousands of stars in the silence of the night.
As we approached Baralacha La, my eyes were wide open staring at the vast expanse of snowy landscape. Never in life had I seen a landscape such as this.
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| A snowy landscape leading to Baralacha La pass |
I envied with bitterness all those folks in private vehicles who had parked to play in the snow— but just then.... our H.P. bus driver signalled us to head on and enjoy the slice of heaven before us!
The bus emptied in a jiffy !!
Walking on the snow maybe awkward at first.. Probably life may never seem the same until I see something better than this❣️
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| We drove down countless BRO built bridges like these |
Thereafter, the journey till Keylong was uneventful except for the splendid views along the way; but I was too tired to take much notice of it. At Keylong I shared the cost of a decent hotel room, with another lady travelling on the same route which worked out to Rs.400/pp.
Journey, Leh to Keylong- Rs 670/
Stay, 1 night - Rs 400/
Food expenses - Rs 350/
Day 9, 18th June
KEYLONG to MANALI
Via Atal tunnel
Today is the last leg of an arduous journey. The word 'anticipation' would have far less significance than it did so far.
Route:
Kokhsar –Gramphu– Sissu— Rohtang (Atal tunnel) – Manali
The road passing through Kokhsar, Gramphi and Sissu opened some beautiful vistas of beautiful rugged mountains, verdant valleys and a meandering river flowing across the twisted highway.
The Atul tunnel, is a marvel and life-saver. It has eliminated the ordeal of getting around the treacherous Rohtang pass. I boarded the 8.15 am bus from Keylong to Manali Rs.156/.
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| The end to a memorable journey: Srinagar - Leh- Manali |
I finally reached Manali around 2 pm and settled in a backpackers hostel on Old Manali road Rs.300/night.
I spent the rest of the day strolling down Old Manali road, visited Manu temple, chit chatted with the locals, got a chance to see a few old Himachali homes with cattle and farms, had a simple but delicious dinner of aloo paratha and finally cosied into my bunker with some chips and coke, before settling for the night.
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| snacks before going to bed |
This was my very first visit and I wanted to make the most of it. After breakfast I set out to explore a bit.
Mid-April to June is high season in Manali. After navigating through a mostly Indian crowd and some dreadlock sporting Israeli tourists, I found a quiet place— the protected Van Vihar stretch. This is a beautiful 20-min trail through pine and deodar woods that runs parallel to the Manalsu river and ends near the Old Manali bridge.
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To lose yourself in the haunting beauty of this region, much like its beautiful glacial
meltwater streams that lose themselves in
The Beas.
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Mall road is a tiny stretch of more shops and restaurants and really not much to do here. so I found my way back to my pad, sat by listening to sounds of the gurgling river and then signed out for the day.
Journey, Keylong to Manali- Rs 156/
Stay, 2 night - Rs 600/
Food expenses - Rs 400/
Day 11, 12- 20th and 21st June
KULLU VALLEY
Kasol, Manikaran
Since I was in Manali, I thought of exploring the Kullu valley a bit more. I was lucky to get a direct bus to Kasol Rs.130/ around 8-8.30 am. If you fail to get a direct bus to Kasol, board any bus going to Bhunter and from there board another bus to Kasol. At Kasol, I booked into a hostel at Rs. 778/ 2 nights.
Kasol is a village situated on the banks of the Parvati river. It offers good weather almost throughout the year, a scenic view of the valley and untouched hills. It is also a base for many treks nearby.
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| Parvati river flowing through Kasol |
I spent the evening at the Kasol Nature park, and sat by the gushing Parvati river for a long long time. Later I bought some veggies, fruits and such to make my own bowl of salad and some sandwiches.
The next day I went further to 5kms north to Manikaran. It terrified me to see just how crowded the road to Manikaran had gotten... An endless stream of cars and gosh! even some Volvo tour buses on such a narrow curvy road with the gushing river Parvati on one side. We were stuck in a jam for almost 20 mins.
Manikaran is a pilgrimage centre for both Hindus and Sikhs and the hot spring inside the Manikaran Sahib Gurudwara is considered auspicious. The gurdwara itself is a huge, impressive structure located on the bank of the river, with colourful flags
everywhere and a constant crowd. the structure was built to commemorate Guru Nanak Dev's visit to Manikaran.
There is also a Shiva temple next to gurudwara hot springs.
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| Manikaran- the steam (top left) is seen coming out of the hot springs |
Steam coming out of the hot springs in Manikaran
The sky was overcast with rain-bearing clouds as I reached my hostel pad. The previous year 2023 around July 7-8 the heavy undulating rains brought untold misery upon the people of Himachal Pradesh. I realised the wisest thing to do is escape the hills at the earliest.
I shall leave for Mandi next day and stay there for a month or two. Follow my travel stories.
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