An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
bike ride : Chikmagalur to Kemmangundi
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Chikmagalur can be reached easily and conveniently from Mangalore; that’s how I got here !
But most tourists who find Chikmagalur a favored weekend destination are techies and families from Bangalore. So I thought of giving it a try, and see for myself what’s all the fuss about.
After breakfast, and later looking around I found a reasonably quaint little hotel room.
Tip : In case you are following my itinerary, I recommend carrying a light backpack for a few days trip, while holding the heavy luggage at your hotel in Mangalore, since we plan to head next to Kerala.
Expectation vs. Reality
Having limited info at hand, I hired an auto to take me to the only place I knew - Mullayangiri. Enroute, I stopped by Siri café to taste what Chikmagalur is best known for- coffee.
Chikmagalur, Karnataka
The onward drive was a long way uphill, making me realize- the wide gap between my hazy expectations and the reality. The driver stopped somewhere at the bottom of Mullayanagiri hill, and I was not sure how high up the climb would be, should I send the driver, or should I make him wait.
But understanding my predicament, the auto driver drove much further to a temple, and from that point he told me to take a hike. No- not that hike, a real short hike uphill, while he would wait near the temple. That seemed like a sensible proposition.
As I walked uphill, that’s when I realized- the beauty and magnanimity of the surrounding mountains was far greater that my expectations. The sun was almost setting and the views were stunning.
a lonely hike at Chikmagalur
sunset at Chikmagalur, Karnataka
The moment I reached the hotel, I asked the staff to get me in touch with a tour operator who knows this place. I longed to see more of the mountains.
A jeep drive through the Chandra drona hills from Chikmagalur to Kemmangundi and back to Chikmagalur - that was the plan! Frankly I was expecting a jeep with few more people, but it seemed like a scooty was waiting down; since I was obviously the only one on this trip, so guess I will have to go with that.
The early morning mist was scintillating and gave a truly misty-rious effect. ‘It also makes the drive a bit risky due to low vision’, said Satish. I couldn't agree more. Later, we made a stop along the way for breakfast; bread omelette and hot tea.
We then continued driving through the Chandra Drona hill range, high into the mountains, breathing in the fresh air. The ride was so engaging. We stopped by a few more places to stretch a bit, and watch the clouds or was is the mists move across the mountains. Having lived in coastal places for the most part of my life, I was awestruck!
Chikmagalur to Kemmangundi drive
We continued to drive on. Once we let a shy snake pass us by and quite often I could see a variety of jungle fowls. Satish explained about the rock formations typical to these mountains, it was all so interesting.
Next we stopped by Baba Budan giri.
around Baba Budangiri, Chikmagalur
Tip : wear snug woolens, it’s quite cold here.
When we reached Dattatreya Peeta, the mist was so thick that I could hardly see clearly, and along with the whistling sound of the wind- this place was beginning to look like something out of a horror movie scene.
The road was quite kutcha now, but the scooty held on somehow. We finally got to a flat table top like place called Gallikere and the wind made a howling sound, it was so strong that I could barely stand still. I was told there is a lake here on this peak, but the fog made it difficult to see much. Satish made a point about how beautiful this lake is during summer.
We continued onward, driving through Bhadra tiger reserve, the road was really bad for sometime and then we got on the smooth roads hugging the mountains with shades of green and gold.
driving through Bhadra tiger reserve, Chikmagalur
Later on, we reached this place; I think it was called zero point, but not sure.
driving through Chikmagalur hills, Karnataka
Finally, after reaching Kemmangudi we took a break for refreshments, before the return trip.
If you need more info on a tour like this; Ask Chikmagalur 088840 48994
Even with an early start we got back late evening. After rest and a shower I walked down to the market area, and was lucky to find a nice homely style restaurant offering authentic fish plate.
enjoying a fish meal at Chikmagalur
Shopping in Chikmagalur
Chikmagalur is famous for its coffee plantations with Arabica grown in the upper hills and Robusta in the low level hills. While Chikmagalur coffee is sold online, since you are here, do walk around the market area to find places from where you can buy it first-hand.
< Day 3 >
Things to do around Chikmagalur
Chikmagalur is well-connected to few of the 10 holiest places in TuluNadu. There are frequent buses that go from Chikmagalur to Belur, Dharmasthal and Sringeri.
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