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An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar

MUGHAL Monuments & Architecture: DELHI, Agra and Fatehpur sikri

This blog can be translated into multiple languages. Please scroll down for Google translate tool

Previous blog post- Delhi Sultanate during the reign of SAYYID & LODI dynasty  


The First Battle of Panipat 20 April 1526 CE, was the watershed battle that ushered Mughal rule in India. The battle was fought between ~ 

Ibrahim Lodi 

V/z

Mughal emperor Babur, Daulat Khan Lodi- governor of Lahore 

Ibrahim Lodi ruffled feathers with his senior nobility after he replaced them with those loyal to him; one of them being Daulat Khan Lodi who invited Babur into the Indian subcontinent inorder to stoke a confrontation with Ibrahim.

What followed next was the First Battle of Panipat. Ibrahim Lodi was a remarkable warrior and commanded a huge military of over 70,000 cavalry and infantry forces, mostly armed with conventional mediaeval weaponry; bows & arrows, swords, pikes and bamboo rods. He had been successful this far, but the Mughal camp had gunpowder on their side thereby bringing about a crushing defeat to the Lodi front. Ibrahim Lodi was defeated and killed in the battle making him the last Sultan of the DELHI SULTANATE.

A simplified blog on Mughal rule in India

List of MUGHAL rulers [r. 1526 to 1857] 

Mughal rule in India spanned a period of 331 years. The highest point of its reign was during the period of Akbar and Aurangzeb, both of whom brought a great part of the Indian subcontinent under their control and ruled for 50 years each. 

1- BABUR

BABUR (r 20 April 1526- 26 Dec 1530): the  founder of Mughal Empire in India 

The Mughals originated from UZBEKISTAN in Central Asia. Zahir Ud Din Babr's father was Uzbek, but his mother was a Mongol. As a military chieftain he succeeded in conquering Samarkand, but lost it 2 years later along with other territories. Gradually he turned his attention eastwards and conquered Kabul (Afghanistan) in 1504 CE. Despite several attempts he was unable to regain Samarkand, so he focussed on regions further east of Kabul. Delhi under Sultan Ibrahim Lodi became his next target. 

After gaining control of DELHI, Padshah Babur as he was called, named his new dynasty 'Mughal' (also called Moghul ) ie. basically a corruption of the word Mongol. 

Rana Sangha of Mewar v/z Babur

Rana Sangha of Mewar v/z Babur
Rana Sangha of Mewar v/z Babur

Among the challenges that Babur faced in India were his confrontations with Rana Sangha of Mewar (r. 1508 to 1528). As expected of a despotic and dangerous Islamic mindset, Babur called Rana Sangha as 'the greatest Infidel (kafir) hindu king of his time along with Krishnadevaraya of Vijayanagara

Maharana Sangram Singh I (his regnal name) was instrumental in unifying the Rajput clans under one fold and fought the Mughals in the Battle of Bayana (21 Feb 1527) which brought victory to the Rajput confederacy. Rana Sangha now marched further 37 kms to KHANWA (west of Agra). 

Realising that he could not fight an open battle against the Rajputs, Babur now changed his tactics. After considerable strategy and careful planning to the minutest detail plus the use of gunpowder the Mughals faced Rana Sangha's army in the Battle of Khanwa on 16 March 1527. This was the decisive battle that day which brought a crushing defeat to the Rajputs. Rana Sangha who had survived the battle was distraught and planned vengeance in due course of time. However, he did not survive for that day as he was poisoned to death by his own nobles. 

Thereafter Babur instituted Agra as his capital city instead of Kabul, Afghanistan. His war engagements against the Rajputs and Ibrahim Lodi during the initial phase had brought about great instability to the Mughal Empire. Out of the 4 children by his wife Maham Begum, the only surviving offspring was Humayun (b. 6 March 1508) was a sickly child. Humayun was finally restored to health only towards the end of Babur's lifetime.  Babur died in Agra but his tomb- Bagh-e-Babur lies in Kabul Afghanistan.


BABUR's legacy 

1) BABRI MASJID, U.P.

Probably the most unnecessary and troublesome legacy left by any Muslim foreigner in India is the Babri masjid. Babur himself would have cared little about the sanctity of the Babri masjid since it was never meant to be a masjid in the first place. This structure was built in 1528-29 CE by demolishing an existing 10th CE hindu temple, and although its name may seem to resemble that of its patron; it actually isn't.

Babur, it is said, lusted for men, not women and despite having wives and concubines he indulged himself with his secret male lover named BABRI. What leftover converts swear over even to this day is a structure built as love-den in the name of BABRI (his lover). There is sufficient information on the internet for this debauchery including BABUR's own memoir 'Baburnama'.


2) Panipat mosque or Kabuli bagh mosque, Panipat 

This mosque is located 86 kms/ approx 2 hrs from Delhi at PANIPAT. It was built in 1527 to mark Mughal victory against Ibrahim Lodi in the First Battle of Panipat.


HUMAYUN (r. 26 Dec 1530 to 17 May 1540): the incapable ruler 

In keeping with the traditions of the Timurid dynasty that an empire must not be left solely to the heir apparent, Babur split his territories between his sons Humayun and Kamran Mirza. Kamran held the territories in Punjab while Humayun ascended the throne (1530 CE) and made Delhi his capital city. 

Humayun was an inexperienced ruler who was eventually ousted by his arch rival Sher Shah Suri, a Mughal commander under Babur during the time he was on an expedition in Gujarat. Plus he also faced conspiracy and rebellion from among his own brethren and was forced to flee to Persia in 1538 CE.

Nila Gumbad- situated within the Humayun's tomb complex at Delhi
Nila Gumbad- situated within the Humayun's tomb complex at Delhi

Nila Gumbad, built in the 1530s, is one of the earliest Mughal monuments. The structure seems to be a mausoleum. Historians however are unsure about the identity of the person who lies buried within. The dome is octogonal shaped, whereas the name Nila ie. blue is due to the glazed turquoise colored tiles covering the dome. 

Humayun made an attempt at saving face against Sher Shah in the Battle of Kannauj (17 May 1540), but was soundly defeated. Sher Shah pursued him from Agra to Delhi and further onwards to Lahore, thus forcing Humayun into exile for the next 15 years.

Jamali Kamali's tomb and mosque
The tomb and the adjoining mosque are associated with Shaikh Fazlullah, also known as Jalal Khan or Jamali. The 2nd grave inside the tomb is that of Kamali (identity unknown). 
Jamali Kamali's tomb, Mehrauli Delhi
Jamali Kamali's tomb, Mehrauli Delhi 


SHER SHAH SUR (r. 1537 to 1545): a far-sighted administrator 

Sher Shah Sur rose from being a privateer, to a military commander and then Governor of Bihar provinces under Mughal emperor Babur. After ousting Humayun, he established the Sur dynasty and gained control of Mughal territories from Balochistan in the west to Rakhine (present-day) Myanmar in the east.

SHER SHAH SUR'S LEGACY 

Sher Shah was a far-sighted administrator as compared to his predecessors. Among the changes he incorporated during his 5 year stint (1540 to 1545 CE) were:
  • Changing the currency from 'tanka' (used previously) to 'rupiya'.
Coin from Sher Shah Suri period exhibited at Purana qila museum, New Delhi
Coin from Sher Shah Suri period exhibited at Purana qila museum, New Delhi 
  • Sher Shah was infamous for demolishing and remodelling cities built by previous ruler, as in the case of Sher Garh (1538 to 1545 CE) ie. present-day PURANA QILA complex in New Delhi. 
Sher Garh was built by demolishing Din-e-panah, a city  that Humayun had himself built on the ruins of an ancient city named 'Indraprastha'.

Sher Garh (Purana qila) is irregularly oblong in plan with bastions on corners. It's principal gateways to the North, West & South are crowned with Chhatris
Sher Garh (Purana qila) is irregularly oblong in plan with bastions on corners. It's principal gateways to the North, West & South are crowned with Chhatris

The North, West and South gates were known respectively as Talaqi, Humayun and Bada darwaza.  

Bada darwaza is the western gateway of Sher Garh, city built by Shee Shah Sur
Bada darwaza is the western gateway

The Bada darwaza was most likely built under Humayun, as it is part of the main fortifications. It is a triple-storeyed structure, 20 metres high. On either side are bastions which, along with the curtain wall beyond, have arrow/ gun slits. Kanguras (merlons) would originally have run along the top of the entire length of the wall (presently disappeared). The surface ornamentation of the gate consists of inlay patterns in sandstone and marble, some stone carving and jhali work. Jharokhas (cantilevered, enclosed openings) and Chhatris (pavilions) also serve a decorative purpose.

Among the existing buildings inside is a mosque; Qila-e-Kuhna masjid.The name literally means 'The mosque of the old fort'. This mosque was built by Sher Shah Sur in 1541.  

Qila-e-Kuhna masjid (mosque of the old fort') built by Sher Shah Sur

The profuse decoration of the mosque includes stone inlay using red and yellow sandstone, and white & black marble, stone carving and lime work.  

The profuse decoration of the mosque
Correction- Qila-e-Kuhna masjid at Purana qila complex, New Delhi 

đź’ˇSher Shah Sur began the Sur dynasty that interrupted Mughal rule for a brief period of time (1540- 1556 CE). 

The large number of Jharokhas (cantilevered enclosed openings) and the octagonal turrets at the corners of the back wall are distinctive features of Mughal style.  

Qila-e-Kuhna masjid back wall at Purana qila complex, New Delhi

The prayer hall measures 51 m x 15 m and the centre of the facade is 16.5 m in height. 

The prayer hall of Qila-e-Kuhna masjid
The prayer hall of Qila-e-Kuhna masjid 

SHER MANDAL - the reason for Humayun's death 
This double storey octagonal pavilion of red sandstone relieved by strips of marble was most likely a pleasure resort.  Recessed arches mark its each, central side. On its second storey is a cruciform chamber with recesses on sides. Its interior is  decorated with glazed tiles and stucco work with geometric patterns. 
Later when Humayun regained his empire, this structure was used as his library, and it is also believed that his death in AD 1556 was due to falling down from its steps. 

Sher Mandal inside Purana qila New Delhi
Sher Mandal inside Purana qila New Delhi 

HAMMAM  
This ruined brick structure is all that remains of a Hammam (bath house). The terracotta pipes and ribbed water chute can still be seen around a room measuring some 3.2 sq m. Such bath houses with provision for hot and cold water, and even steam rooms, were an important part of Mughal culture.  

A hammam (bath house) from Mughal era

  • Sher Shah Sur also revived Patliputra, the ancient capital city of the Magadh empire (490 BCE). It is located near Patna in Bihar.
  • He also extended the Grand Trunk road from Chittagong (Bangladesh) to Kabul (Afghanistan). 
In keeping with his detestable Islamic leanings Sher Shah Sur's contribution of evil and cruelty is displayed in his massacre of Raisen Rajputs. More details for this episode can be found on the internet and elsewhere. 


ISLAM SHAH SURI (r. 27 May 1545- 22 Nov 1554 CE) 
In 1543, SHER Shah Suri began a siege of Kalinjar fort (located at the borders of present day states of U.P. & M.P.).  The fort had been the bastion of several ancient hindu dynasties and was now under control of the Rajputs. The siege resulted in Sher Shah being killed on 22 May 1545 as a result of an explosion.  Despite that, Jalal Khan, his son, continued the siege and succeeded. It was followed by the slaughter of the complete Rajput garrison. 

Jalal Khan took on the name of Islam Shah Suri and ascended the Sur throne. He continued his father's administrative policies and centralised governance. The Kalinjar fort siege was his only military campaign. His legacy is the SALIMGARH FORT within the Red fort complex in Delhi. Presently it is out of bounds for tourists. A strange story circulating around is that the fort is haunted. Some credit the hauntings to Zeb-un-Nissa, Aurangzeb's eldest daughter reciting poetry in a black veil. Others suggest it's the torture cries of INA soldiers who were kept in this fort jail during British rule.

TOMB OF ISA KHAN, located within Humayun's tomb complex, DELHI  

Isa Khan's tomb located within Humayun's tomb complex at Delhi

Isa Khan Niyazi was an Afghan nobleman who served at the courts of both Sher Shah Suri and his son  Islam Shah Suri. Looking at the scale and beauty of his mausoleum it seems as if Isa Khan must have had some clout with the first family of the empire, although not much is known about his life. He died in 1548 at the age of 95. This tomb was built during his lifetime around 1547-48.  

Isa Khan's tomb at Delhi, Sur dynasty period
Isa Khan's tomb at Delhi, Sur dynasty period 

The octogonal shaped tomb has striking ornamentation in the form of canopies, glazed tiles, and lattice screens. 

Isa Khan's tomb has striking ornamentation in the form of canopies, glazed tiles, lattice screens and a deep verandah
Isa Khan's tomb has striking ornamentation in the form of canopies, glazed tiles, lattice screens and a deep verandah

There are many tombs within the mausoleum, but I imagine the biggest tomb might be that of Isa Khan
There are many tombs within the mausoleum, but I imagine the biggest tomb might be that of Isa Khan 

Along the western side of the enclosure, there is a three-bay-wide mosque. The mosque has a grand red sandstone central bay and striking mihrabs. 

Mosque with Isa Khan's tomb enclosure
Mosque with Isa Khan's tomb enclosure 

The Sur dynasty begins to crumble

Firuz Shah Suri (r. 22 Nov to Dec 1554) 
Md Adil Shah (r. Dec 1554- Jan 1555)
Ibrahim Shah Suri (r. Jan 1555- Feb 1555)
Sikandar Shah Suri (r. Feb 1555- 22 June 1555)

Islam Shah Suri died at the age of 47 and was succeeded by his 12 year old son Firuz Shah Suri who didn't survive his reign for more than a month. Firuz was murdered by Sher Shah Suri's nephew Muhammad Adil Shah.

Within a month of becoming the new monarch, Muhammad Adil Shah was himself challenged by his brother-in-law Ibrahim Shah Suri, Governor of Agra. Both armies met in a war, in which Muhammad Adil Shah was defeated and consequently lost his throne of Delhi.. 

The Sur dynasty's empire was divided. Delhi and Agra came under the rule of Ibrahim Shah Suri. Md Adil Shah still controlled the territories farther from Agra till Bihar. The Bengal territories under Muhammad Khan Sur had already declared independence. Yet another brother-in-law of Muhammad Adil Shah, named Ahmed who was governor of Lahore also declared his independence from Delhi.  

Ahmed now marched against the reigning Sultan Ibrahim Shah Suri and challenged him to a battle at FARAH (30 kms from Agra). Ibrahim was defeated and Ahmed took on the regnal name of Sikandar Shah Suri. Sadly his absence from Lahore gave Humayun the ousted Mughal emperor a golden opportunity to capture the city on Feb 1555. So Sikandar Shah Suri has now won Delhi and Agra but lost Lahore. 


HUMAYUN returns (r. 22 June 1555 to 27 Jan 1556 

Encouraged by the takeover of Lahore, the Mughal army advanced and captured Jalandhar and later Sirhind in Punjab. Sikandar Shah Suri, who got to know of this, sent his forces against Humayun. Both armies met at Sirhind in which Sikandar was defeated and was forced to retreat while Humayun marched into DELHI victorious from the Battle at Sirhind.

During the later part of his 15 years exile, Humayun had found a powerful ally in the Safavids of Persia. It was with their support, and the fact that he placed his army under the leadership of Bairam Khan, an experienced military commander, that he managed to regain control of Hindustan. He spent his days in SHER GARH (Purana qila, Delhi)  that was previously his own Din-e-panah. Barely had he ruled for the next 6 months when he tumbled down the steps of Sher Mandal (mentioned before) and died on 24 Jan 1556.


Suggested read- Tracing the origins of Indo-Persian architecture and miniature painting


HUMAYUN'S TOMB, New Delhi 

Humayun's tomb, monument in Delhi

Hamida Banu Begum, his grieving widow built Emperor Humayun's mausoleum which took 8 years to complete. It is the earliest example of Persian influence in India and the first of its kind to use such huge quantities of sandstone in red and yellow (brought from Agra). The red-white contrast; used earlier by the Khalji and Tughlaq rulers was significant to the design and used with skill. Six-sided stars together with marble-clad minarets and canopies with ceramic tiles display the mausoleum's excellent ornamentation. 

Humayun's tomb, monument in New Delhi
front view of Humayun's tomb 

The structure was built using random rubble masonry walls and stands on a platform of 12,000m and reaches a height of 47 m. The gleaming white marble dome with a brass filial crowns the façade of the principal structure. The lower portion is built on a large plint with 17 white lime plastered arches on each façade. This is framed in red sandstone inlaid with white marble. 

Close-up of a lime plastered lower arch
Close-up of a lime plastered lower arch 

Ceiling ornamentation: Humayun's tomb
Ceiling design: Humayun's tomb 

Humayun's tomb has over 100 graves, earning it the name 'Dormitory of the Mughals'. 

Humayun's tomb has within it over 100 graves, earning it the name 'Dormitory of the Mughals'
Undeniably a distinct Persian design used on the tombs 


AKBAR (r. 1556 to 1605 CE)- the Great Deceiver  

đź’ˇThis blogpost mainly exhibits monuments in Delhi, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri, that were built during the 331 years of Mughal rule. However, we must be aware; Muslim invasions in India, or elsewhere in the world are the bloodiest chapters of history.

In the words of historian Will Durant, 'the Mohameddans conquests of India has been the bloodiest in history. Even Islamic scholars and historians have recorded with great glee and pride the slaughter of Hindus, forced conversions, abduction of Hindu women and children to slave markets and the destruction of temples carried out from 800 to 1700 CE. Millions of Hindus were converted by the sword during this period.'
Refer- The story of Civilization: Our Oriental Heritage by Will Durant 

Akbar was conniving in his methodology when dealing with kafirs (an Islamic ideology that considers non-Muslims as 'kafirs' ie. worst of creatures worthy of being killed); while displaying a big-hearted policy of secularism towards his non-Muslims subjects so as to avoid unnecessary hostilities, his hidden devotion to the cause of Islamic supremacy was exhibited in his clashes with the Rajputs of Rajputana. Take the example of Chittorgarh. When Chittor fell to Akbar's forces, he declared: "With the help of our blood-thirsty swords, we have erased the signs of infidelity from the Hindus' minds and destroyed their temples all over Hindustan." Further the surviving defenders of Chittor were met with the utmost barbaric fate ever imaginable.


Jalal ud-din Muhammad Akbar was born on 15 Oct 1542 in Umerkot, Sindh province, during the time when Humayun was caught between the Devil (namely, Sher Shah Sur) driving him into exile on one side, and the Deep sea (namely, Humayun's rebellious brother Kamran Mirza) on the other. Some historians actually credit Emperor Akbar for the Mughal Imperial status. 

His greatest threat was Hemu, a military general of the Sur dynasty, who had gained considerable ground in the Indo-Gangetic plains by expelling the Mughals. However, due his capable military commander Bairam Khan, Emperor Akbar prevailed The Second Battle of Panipat (5 Nov 1556).

Monuments built by Akbar

After the conquest of Rajputana, Akbar celebrated his victory by building a new Imperial capital city named Fatehpur Sikri  literal meaning- city of victory  (built between 1569 and 1585.). 

The Imperial courtyard. Fatehpur Sikri
Daulat khana or Imperial courtyard of Fatehpur Sikri palace. Within it lies Diwan-e-khas or Private audience hall, where the emperor would meet his ministers. Anup talao or Peerless pool is a square tank with a deep pool. The talao has a central island flanked by 4 bridges.

Location: Fatehpur Sikri is situated 242 km/ approx 4 hrs from Delhi and 36 km/ 1 hr from Agra

The Mughals, being descendants of warrior clans, and having lived a semi-nomadic life in nothing more than tented encampments now looked forward to a settled lifestyle. The Fatehpur Sikri palace complex displaying Mughal architecture is remarkably well-preserved, and gives us an insight into Mughal courtly life. It was here that Prince Salim (later called Jehangir) was born. Fatehpur Sikri remained the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585.

Jammi masjid at Fatehpur Sikri near Agra. This glimpse is from the Buland darwaza
Jammi masjid was built in 1571. This glimpse is from the Buland darwaza 

Jammi masjid, Fatehpur Sikri- Through this masjid, Akbar was juxtapositing the popular spread of mystical Sufism along with orthodox Islamic foundations of his regime. The Buland darwaza was added later in 1576 to commemorate Akbar's victories in Gujarat. Also within Jammi masjid lies the tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti.

AGRA FORT 
Archaeological evidences point that both Fatehpur Sikri and Agra fort have existed much earlier. The Chauhan Rajputs and later Sikandar Lodi had occupied the fort in the 14-15th CE. After the first Battle of Panipat (1526) It became part of Mughal territories. However, the fort's present appearance owes credit to Akbar who, with the help of architects from Rajasthan, reconstructed the entire structure in red sandstone (1565 to 1573). Agra fort is also called as Qila-i-Akbari.  

Agra fort, also known as Qila-i-Akbari - AGRA was built by Mughal emperor Akbar
Agra fort, also known as Qila-i-Akbari - AGRA was built by Mughal emperor Akbar 

The monumental Delhi gate of Agra fort (1568) is a masterpiece by itself built during Akbar's era. Note the embellishments in white marble.

During the time the fort was enclosed within a moat, and connected to the mainland with the help of a drawstring bridge. It is said the 4000 workers laboured over 8 years to complete it in 1573.

đź’ˇThe fort is quite huge; 94 acres ie. and will need atleast ½ day to see all the points of interest 

Mayam Angah: Akbar's conniving and opportunistic wet nurse

Mayam Angah was appointed as Akbar's wet nurse by the royal household. Records prove that she had a powerful influence on the young emperor's mind; one being influencing Akbar to betray his own loyal military commander Bairam Khan and sending him into exile to Mecca. 

It was Mayam Angah's secret desire to further the progress of her own son Adham Khan; so she influenced Akbar to topple Bairam Khan for Adham instead. She was successful in this endeavour and Adham became an important member of the Imperial household.

KHAIRUL MANZIL meaning 'best of houses 
This mosque, often missed out from the usual tourist's trail is located on the road leading to Humayun's tomb in Delhi. It was commissioned by Mayam Angah in 1561.
KHAIRUL MANZIL mosque in Delhi

The exterior is built in typical Mughal style of red sandstone. It is still in use as a mosque. Along the other 3 sides of the courtyard are colonnades which houses a madrasa. 


TOMB OF MUHAMMAD QULI KHAN also known as ADHAM KHAN 
Ironically enough it was Akbar who got Adham executed for betraying and murdering Shams-ud-din Ataga Khan, his favourite general-wazir and son of another wet nurse by the name of Jiji Anga.  Akbar then built this tomb for Adham in 1562. Mayam Angah was deeply anguished at losing a son for whom she labored, albeit with evil intent. She died shortly afterwards and her body was also laid to rest in the same tomb.

Tomb of Muhammad QULI Khan built during Mughal era by Akbar

The tomb is hoisted on a high plint and is
octagonal* from the outside and square from inside. The interior is exquisitely ornamental with painted plasterwork. The exterior has designs of stucco plaster and on the eastern façade, there are remains of glazed tiles in shades of blue, green and yellow. It was later converted by Thomas Theophilus Metcalfe into his weekend retreat and was called DILKUSHA. He then altered the enclosure by adding a garden with terraces, water courses and pavilions.
Location: Mehrauli Archaeological park

đź’ˇOctagonal design tombs were common in the case of Sur, Lodi and Sayyid dynasty rulers eg. Tomb of Muhammad Shah SAYYID at Lodhi gardens New Delhi (1444 CE). It was rare however in case of Mughal architecture, hence historians claim It is quite likely that Mughals reserved this design for traitors.


Fatehpur Sikri was later abandoned by Akbar in 1585 when he went to fight a campaign in Punjab, and by 1610 it was abandoned completely. The reason for this it is said could be the failure of water supply.

Akbar died in 1605 due to illness. His tomb lies in Sikandra, Agra beside his favourite consort, Mariam-uz-Zamani.


JEHANGIR (r. 3 Nov 1605 to 28 Oct 1627 CE) - the emperor with several favourite wives and consorts 

The first thing that comes to mind (in pop culture) when one thinks of Jehangir, is a blockbuster movie named Mughal-e-Azam that portrays the evocative romance between Prince Salim and Anarkali. The story was so convincing that I believed this hogwash for a longtime. But from what it seems that Emperor Jehangir actually had several favourites. 

His first wife was his maternal cousin; namely, Jodha Bai ie. Mariam-uz-Zamani's niece- Man bai of Amer, Rajasthan. They were both very young then (m. 15 Feb 1585). Humayun himself pledged with all his heart that she was his favourite and honoured her with the title Shah Begum.  Within a year; 11 Jan 1586, he married another Hindu Rajput princess; namely, Manavati bai- the daughter of Raja Udai Singh Rathore of Marwar. Manavati bai also called Jagat Gosain would be the mother of future Emperor Shah Jahan. On 26 June the same year (ie. 1586) he married the daughter of Maharaja of Bikaner. The following month he married the daughter of another muslim Changatai chief... And the list goes on and so forth. 
Mughal emperor Jehangir's coin, exhibited at Purana qila museum
Mughal emperor Jehangir's coin, exhibited at Purana qila museum 

So the question is; if Muslim rulers could keep more than the required number of wives (Islam allows maximum 4 wives) and consorts in their harem, what is it that besotted the emperor to Anarkali, and better still what difference would it make if he kept her in his harem?!

Jehangir may be a romantic at heart; but when it came to his Islamic leanings he didn't disappoint in the display of what inhumanity is. It was Jehangir who ordered the execution of Sikh Guru Arjan. 

He built Jehangir Mahal at Orchha in Madhya Pradesh. A lifelong user of opium and wine, Jehangir also died of ill health on 29 Oct 1627, and was succeeded by his son Shah Jahan.

A late 16th century Mughal era tomb. Belongs to- Unknown. Location- within Humayun's tomb complex, Delhi
A late 16th century Mughal era tomb. Belongs to- Unknown. Location- within Humayun's tomb complex, Delhi

Folklore refers to the above building as 'Barber's tomb'. The Red sandstone façade, tiled canopies, minarets and sandstone screens give the tomb it's striking character. 
The interior, tombs inside the building known as 'Barber's tomb'
The interior, tombs inside 'Barber's tomb'

It was under Mughal emperor JEHANGIR'S watch that the British East India company first disembarked at the Mughal port of Surat, thereby gaining a foothold in India.

SHAH JAHAN (r. 5 Jan 1592 to 22 Jan 1666)- a connoisseur of Persian architecture 

SHAH JAHAN ascended the throne at Agra in 1627 and decided to shift his capital to DELHI. As envisioned by him, construction of the new fort city began in 1639. After 10 years; the previously existing fort and complex was rebuilt with red sandstone and renamed Shahjahanabad and the fort Lal Qila. 

A walkthrough of The Red fort, Delhi 

The Peacock throne was transferred from Agra to the Red fort, as it became the new seat of the Mughal Empire. Needless to say, several major buildings, gardens, palaces and a mosque were now part of this grand complex.  

RED FORT, Chandini Chowk, Delhi
RED FORT, Chandini Chowk, Delhi

Walking through the LAHORI GATE, one immediately enters this covered two storeyed passage that was known as CHHATTA CHOWK ie. The Covered Bazar On each side are arched bays that served as shops that catered to the luxury trade of Imperial households; namely- silk, brocades, velvets, gold, silverware, jewelry and gems. 
CHHATTA CHOWK  (The Covered Bazar), Red fort Delhi
CHHATTA CHOWK  (The Covered Bazar), Red fort Delhi 

SAWAN and BHADON PAVILIONS~ According to the Hindu calendar, Sawan and Bhadon are two months of the rainy season. These two identical pavilions stand to the north and south of the HAYATH-BAKHSH garden (meaning 'life-bestowing garden).  

SAWAN and BHADON PAVILIONS~ at Red fort Delhi

Built solely in white marble, these were once said to be highly ornamented. Between the two is another red sandstone pavilion called ZAFAR MAHAL, named after Bahadur Shah Zafar II who built it later in 1842. 

Zafar Mahal pavilion at Red fort, Delhi

Rang mahal or 'Palace of colours' is a painted hall. This was the largest of the royal apartments and was also called IMTIAZ MAHAL ie Palace of Distinction. 

It is divided into 6 apartments by engrailed arches set on piers. The northern and southern end of Rang Mahal are known as SHISH MAHAL ie. House of Mirrors as the walls and ceilings are embedded with tiny pieces of mirror, that create a picturesque effect as they reflect light. 

Mumtaz Mahal 
This royal apartment (south of the Rang Mahal) is named after Shah Jahan's queen Mumtaz. This is where she lived alongside her husband at Agra fort. It consists of 6 apartments divided by arched piers. The interiors, it is said was decorated with gold and precious stones and had rosewater fountains of its own. The lower half of its walls and pillars are built in marble.  
Interiors of Mumtaz Mahal palace at Red fort
During the British era, this area was used as a military prison owing to which it's original appearance is altered to certain extent.

Khas Mahal- This was the Emperor's private palace. It consists of 3 parts:
Tasbih-khana (chamber of telling beads) was meant for the Emperor's private worship.
Khwabgah (sleeping chamber)
Tosh khana (robe chamber) also called Baithak (sitting-room) is a long hall with its painted walls and ceilings and a perforated screen.

Diwan-i-Khas-
Also known as 'Shah Mahal' was the 'Hall of Private Audience' used by the Emperor for receiving selected courtiers and visitors. 

Diwan-i-khas ie. Private audience hall at Red fort

It consists of a rectangular central chamber , surrounded by series of arches rising from the piers. The lower parts of the piers are inlaid with floral designs, while the upper portions are gilded and painted. The four corners of its roof are surmounted by pillared chhatris. Over the marble pedestal in its centre stood the famous PEACOCK THRONE which was removed in 1739 by Nadir Shah. Through the centre of the hall of Diwan-i-khas flowed the NAHR-I-BIHISHT..

Nahr-i-Bihisht or the Canal of Paradise was an important feature of the fort. Water was carried from the river upto the SHAH BURJ and carried to various palaces by this channel called 'The Stream of Paradise'. It provided a continuous supply of water distributed throughout the gardens and interiors and served as air-conditioners. In the centre of the Nahr-i-Bihisht is a marble basin that once contained an ivory fountain.

Nahr-i-Bihisht or the Canal of Paradise

HAMMAM or Royal baths were the favourite resort of the Mughal emperors, where important administrative decisions were also transacted. The central chamber had a marble basin which could be used for hot or cold water as desired. The floors and dados were built with superb marble inlayed floor patterns of multicolored stones.  

Diwan-i-Am or Hall of Public Audience
This was the place where Shah Jahan received the general public and heard their grievances. With a large courtyard in front, it was originally surrounded by arcaded apartments that were used by chiefs (umarahs) on duty. With an impressive façade of nine engrailed arch openings, the hall was ornamented with gilded stucco work.  

Arcaded well-designed ceiling
Arcaded well-designed ceiling 

In the centre of the eastern wall stands a marble canopy covered by a Bengal roof, under which was placed the Emperor's throne. There is a marble dias below the throne inlaid with semi-precious stones. This dias was used by the Wazir (Prime Minister) for receiving petitions. 

Throne of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan at Red fort
Throne of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan at Red fort 

Behind the canopy, the wall is decorated with beautiful panels inlaid with multi-colored stones (pietra a dura work), representing flowers and birds, said to have been executed by Austin de Bordeaux, a Florentine jeweller. 

Naubat khana or Drum house
Which stands at the entrance of the palatial complex is a large 3 storied rectangular building with red sandstone exterior that is richly carved in floral designs. The interiors are richly painted in many colours.
The exterior of the Naubat khana at Red fort is richly carved on red sandstone
The exterior of the Naubat khana at Red fort is richly carved on red sandstone  

The interior of the Naubat khana at Red fort Delhi
The interior of the Naubat khana at Red fort Delhi 

In its days of glory, musicians announced the arrival of the Emperor or other prominent dignitaries at the court of the Public Audience [Diwan-i-Am]. Music was also played 5 times a day at chosen hours. It is said that the later Mughal kings, Jahandar Shah (1712- 13 CE) and Farrukhsiyar (1713- 19 CE) were assassinated here. 

đź’ˇUstad Ahmad Lahori (1580- 1649) was the chief Mughal architect during the reign of emperor Shah Jahan. Monuments built by him include; Red fort- Delhi, Taj Mahal- Agra, the layout of Old Delhi and Jama masjid- Delhi. To a large extent, Shah Jahan was also personally involved in his projects.

Jama masjid, Delhi 
Below pic: The streets and lanes of Old Delhi opp. Jama masjid (above)
Below pic: The streets and lanes of Old Delhi opp. Jama masjid 

Jama masjid was to be the Imperial mosque that Shah Jahan commissioned to be built between 1650- 1656. It is located in Delhi's busy Chandni chowk area, can accommodate 25,000 worshippers and is still in active use.

Emperor SHAH JAHAN'S LOVE đź’• Life

Since SHAH JAHAN is best known for commissioning the Taj Mahal in memory of his loving wife Mumtaz Mahal, I felt the need to research a bit and seek as much truth as is available.  

The Taj Mahal, Agra
The Taj Mahal at Agra is a marble mausoleum that took 22 years to build and got completed in 1643 

Arjumand Banu Begum (1593- 1631) belonged to an illustrious Persian noble family under the Mughals. Her aunt Mehr un-Nissa, better known as Nur Jahan had been an influential figure as the chief consort of Emperor Jehangir.

Both, Shah Jahan and Arjumand Banu were engaged to be married, but the royal astrologers set the marriage date at 1612 ie. 5 years hence. Shah Jahan, in the meantime Shah Jahan married Qandahari Begum on 8 Nov 1610. He also had his first child, a daughter named Parhez Banu Begum (b. 21 Aug 1611) through Qandahari. 

Although this may not sound like a typical love story, it is often understood among royals that political pragmatism was often at the forefront when forming a marital alliance. Qandahari's father, Sultan Muzaffar Husain Mirza Safavi of the illustrious Iranian Safavid dynasty  anticipating rivalry within his household, felt the need to surrender his province of Kandahar (Afghanistan) to the Mughals. Emperor Akbar lost no time in seizing Kandahar, and it was thus under such circumstances that Qandahari Begum along with her father and brothers left their native land for India in 1595.

Sultan Muzaffar received a worthy value in terms of rank and salary in exchange for Kandahar. Not to mention the promise of a marital alliance between Qandahari and the reluctant 18 year old Sultan Khurram (better known as Shah Jahan). The heartbroken prince had on the one hand been deprived of marrying Arjumand Banu, while on the other hand been forced into a strictly strategic marital alliance with Qandahari Mahal. Unlike the Taj Mahal, Qandahari's tomb in Agra is almost obliterated during the anarchy following Aurangzeb's reign.

Finally in 1612, Arjumand Banu married Shah Jahan and took on the title Mumtaz Mahal. As the Emperor's chief consort, Mumtaz wielded immense power and influence in courtly matters.

Shah Jahan also had other wives; Izz-un-Nissa, better known as Akbarbadi Mahal was his third wife (m. 2 Sept 1617)- this too it is said was another strategic marital alliance entered into by Shah Jahan himself voluntarily. Lilavati Bai was his fourth wife. 

Fatehpuri mosque, Chandni chowk DELHI
Fatehpuri Begum, yet another wife of Shah Jahan hailed from Fatehpur Sikri 

Mumtaz Mahal, died on 17 June 1631 at the age of 38  while giving birth to her 14th child, a daughter named Gauhar Ara Begum. While with his other wives Shah Jahan shared nothing more than a mere state of marriage and sired 1 child each; Mumtaz Mahal meant everything to him. For his love for Mumtaz and his passion for Persian art and architecture, Shah Jahan set forth to build a mausoleum.  


AURANGZEB (r. 31 July 1658- 3 March 1707)- an Islamic fanatic to the core 

Aurangzeb was Shah Jahan's 3rd son who clashed with his eldest brother and heir apparent, Dara Shikoh. It is indeed unfortunate that history gave us Aurangzeb; for perhaps we hoped for more compassion and foresight in Dara Shikoh instead. After executing all of his own brothers, Aurangzeb kept his father under house arrest at the Agra fort. 



Islamic orthodoxy and supremacy is the only passion that drove Aurangzeb throughout his reign. Akbar's cunning diplomacy of liberal religious discourses and secular views among his subjects were to become a thing of the past. Shah Jahan's passion for Persian arts and architecture would get soon wiped out. Aurangzeb was unapologetic when it came to Islamisation of the subcontinent. He reintroduced the jiziya and roped in 500 Islamic scholars to compile the 'fatawa alamgiri', a pure Sharia based manual of governance.

Aurangzeb's display of cruelty towards Sikh gurus

During this period where Intolerance of other faiths was at its peak, Sikhism was beginning to take shape. Aurangzeb ordered the execution of Guru Teg Bahadur and many other Sikh gurus in the most inhuman cruel way. 
Mati das chauraha at Chandani chowk; a reminder of how intolerant Islam is towards people of other faith
Above pic- Mati das chauraha at Chandani chowk; is a reminder of the martyrdom of Bhai Sati Das. He alongwith many other Sikh gurus were brutally and inhumanly executed during 17th ce by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb all because they wanted to follow their own faith

Guru Teg Bahadur's execution was the breaking point; It was from thenceforth that the Sikhs started militarisation against the atrocities of Islamic rule. 


Aurangzeb v/z The Great Maratha

What good is it if you Win the battle, but Lose the War?

Mughal emperor Aurangzeb's reign as viceroy and later on as sovereign from 1636 until 3 March 1707 coincided with that of The Great Maratha warrior king- Shivaji (r. 19 Feb 1630 to 3 April 1680) and thereafter with Shivaji's son Sambhaji (r. 14 May 1657 to 11 March 1689). The Maratha's unswerving call for Swarajya plus their expertise in guerrilla warfare made them a mighty force to reckon with. Whereas the Mughal's fanaticism and wild frenzy for subjugating hindus and destroying their culture left no room for reason or diplomacy.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj - The Great Maratha
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj - The Great Maratha 

Suggested read- The Great Maratha trail


All of Aurangzeb's 26 years stint in the Deccan conquests kept him busy warring with the Marathas resulting in a Pyrrhic victory. The unfathomable loss of lives and wealth made even Aurangzeb sad. The constantly moving capital of tents took a toll on peninsular India's resources and food supply. Famine and bubonic plague struck by 1700 CE. The conceiver of all this death and destruction was himself now nearing his 90s and filled with remorse. 

Tomb of Aurangzeb, Khuldabad Maharashtra
Tomb of Aurangzeb, Khuldabad Maharashtra

Next blogpost: Mughal rule in India (Post-Aurangzeb)


MOTI MASJID or Pearl mosque 
Moti masjid within the Red fort, was built by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1659-1660 for his 2nd wife Nawab bai. It was in use by the other ladies of the zenana who entered through a passage in the northern wall of the enclosure. The mosque is coated with white plaster. The interiors are in white marble.


PINJORE GARDENS 
also known as YADAVINDRA GARDENS was built by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb's during the early days of his rule, by his foster brother Muzaffar Hussain also known as Nawab Fidai Khan Koka.  

Pinjore garden, also known as YADAVINDRA GARDENS

The gardens history however, goes back to the days of the MAHABHARATA when it was referred to as PANCHPURA. During their 12 years exile, the Pandavas spent some time here and also dropped by during their 36 year reign before disappearing into the Himalayas. In its present form the garden is credited to Fidai Khan. 

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