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"I apologize Angela, I'm still a bit drunk from last night" said Mon. "No worries," I replied. A road trip by public bus isn't always so comfortable, and for this reason alone I preferred to stick to a no-alcohol, light diet.
Previous blog- Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal historical tour
Our next destination is Bijapur which is approx 120 km/ 2 ½ hr from Badami. Bijapur, now called Vijayapura is located at the heart of the Deccan plateau. If you make this an isolated trip, then a train journey will prove more comfortable than a road trip.
Historical timeline of Bijapur (VIJAYAPURA)
Travelling across the Deccan region is a lesson in history and heritage, and although Bijapur may seem unassuming, it has been the seat of many Mediaeval Indian dynasties ~
- The KALYANI CHALUKYAS (973-1189 CE) also known as WESTERN CHALUKYA DYNASTY established this town around 10th-11th CE and called it Vijayapura.
- It later came under control of Simhana (r. 1210 to 1246) the YADAVA DYNASTY king in 1206 CE, who placed it under the care of his general Keshavadeva.
- Bijapur became part of The Bahmani Sultanate of Gulbarga (r. 1347 to 1527 CE). When the Bahamani empire split into 5 other Deccan Sultanates, it became an independent state under the Adilshahis from 1490 to 1686 CE.
- Then came Mughals under emperor Aurangzeb from 1686 till 1723.
- In 1724 when the Nizam of Hyderabad gained control of the Deccan, Bijapur came under the folds of the Nizam rule, before passing on to the Marathas in 1760. In 1818 the Maratha Peshawas suffered defeat at the hands of the British and it was ceded to them.
- Post-independence Bijapur has been part of Karnataka state and is now renamed as Vijayapura since 2014.
Down the paths of History!
Despite passing through the hands of multiple rulers, most of the city's existing monuments are a legacy of the Bijapur Sultanate ie. the Adilshahis. Here are a list of monuments, forts and citadels to take you down the paths of history.
1- The Citadel or Arkilla
☀️ Yusuf Adil Shah (r. 1490- 1510 CE), a Persian-Turkic nobleman had been appointed as governor by the vizier Mahmud Gawan of Bahamani Sultanate before carving out the province of Bijapur as his own. He is credited for building the huge fortifications encompassing the town and making it his Capital city ~ Bijapur. Within the citadel lie all the important buildings such as palaces, royal gardens and halls. Yusuf Adil Shah also built a palace Faroukh Mahal.
A bad year for Yusuf Adil Shah
The Adilshahis also had Goa under their control, but eventually lost it in 1510 CE to the Portuguese governor Afonso de Albuquerque. About the same time, Krishnadevaraya had ascended the Vijayanagara empire throne in 1509 and set out on a campaign against the Deccan Sultanates; that included the Bijapur Sultanate as well. This resulted in Yusuf Adil Shah being defeated and killed in a battle at Kovilkonda (1510 CE).
☀️ Ismail Adil Shah (r. 1510- 1534 CE) was a minor when he succeeded his father Yusuf as the next Adilshah of Bijapur. After assuming power he got engaged in the Battle of Raichur against the Vijayanagara king Krishnadevaraya which resulted to his crushing defeat. He died at the young age of 35 due to illness.
☀️ Ibrahim Adil Shah I (r. 1534- 1558 CE) gave up being a Sh'ia, the faith of his predecessors, in favor of Sunni form of Islam which was more common in the Deccan. He also went further in discontinuing all Shia practices that were prevalent at the time. Ibrahim's reign was relatively diplomatic in nature and he formed many alliances with other Deccan Sultanates.
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| A royal court of the Deccan Sultanates |
Deccani muslims v/z Afaquis or Pardesis
The Deccanis were basically Sunni muslims who were once part of the Delhi Sultanate and had migrated to the Deccan during the TUGHLAQ era. The Afaquis on the other hand were Shia-foreigners who arrived later to settle in the Deccan. They were mostly Persians, Central Asians, Turks etc.
There had been ongoing power struggles between nobles of both groups. Since Yusuf Adil Shah was himself an Afaqui of Persian origin he favoured Afaqui nobles. After adopting Sunni Islam, Ibrahim Adil Shah's anti-afaqui policies put an end to the Afaquis-Shia dominance and replaced them by Deccanis. This resulted in the disgruntled lot switching sides in favor of neighbouring Sultanates.
Ibrahim, his father Ismail and grandfather Yusuf all lie buried in the same campus as that of the Sufi Chandah Hussaini Ashrafi in Gogi, Shahpur, Gulbarga.
2- Ali ka rouza & masjid
Is the burial place of Bijapur's fifth Sultan Ali Adil Shah I.
☀️ Ali Adil Shah I (r. 1558- 1579 CE)- believed that the anti-afaqui policies were doing more harm than good to the Sultanate and hence reversed all doings of his father / predecessor Ibrahim Adil Shah. The Afaquis were restored to their original status.
3- Malik ē maidan meaning 'lord of the battle plains'
This Is a 14' long cannon that was employed by the combined Deccan confederacy forces against the Vijayanagara empire during the Battle of Talikota (1565 CE). This infamous battle fought during the reign of Ali Adil Shah I was the watershed event that brought the great Vijayanagara empire downhill.
Read more- As the sun sets on the Vijayanagara empire
4- Gagan Mahal
This two storey royal residence was also built in 1561 during the period of Adil Shah I . Although in ruins the structure looks stately with its 3 arches and a Darbar hall on the ground floor.
5- Jama masjid (Bijapur)
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| Jama masjid Bijapur |
Jama masjid, a public congregational mosque, was built by Ali Adil Shah I in 1576. It was financed using Vijayanagara loot post the Battle of Talikota. However, it must be noted that later Sultans and even the Mughals made some additions and detailing to the mosque.
6- Chand Bawdi
Ali Adil Shah I was indeed privileged to have the famous warrior queen Sultana Chand Bibi as his wife. She belonged to the Nizam Shahi house of Ahmednagar and is well-known for her role in defending Ahmednagar from Mughal emperor Akbar in 1595 CE. The stepwell named Chand Bawdi was built by her husband in her honour.
7- Ibrahim Rooza
The word Rooza means garden, and Ibrahim Rooza was built as a tomb for Bijapur's 6th Sultan~
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| Ibrahim Rooza Bijapur |
☀️ Ibrahim Adil Shah II (r. 1580- 1627 CE)~ Ali Adil Shah I died in 1580. Having no heir of his own, his young nephew ascended the throne. The 9 years old Ibrahim Adil Shah II was therefore represented by his predecessor's widow Sultana Chand Bibi- who acted as his regent from 1580 to 1590.
In the pursuit of religious identity Adil Shah II switched back to Sunni Islam, but being secural-minded he afforded other religions their due space. He was a cultured man with a love for music and poetry. Bijapur had grown wealthy after the loot that followed the battle of Talikota hence money was not an issue. Ibrahim Rooza was built lavishly in typical Indo-Islamic style of architecture~ it's minarets, stonework and calligraphy look remarkable even to this day.
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| Tomb of Ibrahim Adil Shah II at Ibrahim Rooza, Bijapur |
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| Zoom in to observe closely the beautiful stonework of a building within Ibrahim Rooza, Bijapur |
8- Gol Gumbaz
Bijapur's iconic monument Gol Gumbaz is a mausoleum for Bijapur's 7th ruler Mohammad Adil Shah
☀️ Mohammad Adil Shah (r. 1627- 1656 CE) succeeded his father Ibrahim Adil Shah II. Bijapur had by now progressed into a medieval metropolis of the Deccan. The Adilshahis, it seemed, had poured out their heart & soul to the city. Its buildings, arts, culture, trade and commerce drew travellers and merchants from other parts of India and foreign lands. The town's dam, reservoirs and waterworks were developed.
Gol Gumbaz's Whispering gallery
Designed by Yaqut Dabul in 1656 this monument is an extraordinary piece of architecture. Running along the inner area across the dome is a corridor~ a whisper at one corner can be heard only at a precise location at the other end, and not elsewhere. There are guides here who happily demonstrate this intriguing experience.
Tip- Other than the few well-maintained monuments, the town of Bijapur is presently hot, dusty and rather badly maintained. Haphazard and unplanned constructions have taken over.
Bijapur's Sultanate expands
Mohammad Adil Shah shared bitter rivalry with neighbouring Ahmednagar, while at the same time facing constant threat from the advancing Mughals. So in a twisted strategy of sorts~ he entered into a peace treaty with Mughal emperor Shahjahan (1636 CE) in a bid to join hands in defeating the Sultanate of Ahmednagar. This he felt would grant Bijapur immunity from further Mughal attacks.
This peace treaty worked in favor of Bijapur just as Mohammad had expected. Emperor Shahjahan recognised his sovereignty, thereby enabling him to expand his kingdom further down the Konkan coast, south all the way to Mysore and also eastwards.
9- Asar Mahal and Mithari
Peace brought in prosperity. The Sultan used the time to promote arts and culture. The painting halls of Asad Mahal (built in 1646 CE) are a witness to this glorious period.
The Great Maratha rises
Mohammad Adil Shah hadn't anticipated a threat from the Maratha camp. His general Shahji Bhosle began revolting and calling for Maratha identity.
10- Barra Kaman (1672 AD)
Bijapur Sultanate's 8th Sultan's yearning to have a mausoleum of unmatched beauty was left unfulfilled~ as one can clearly see the splendid structure with 12 arches is unfinished (reasons unknown).
An uneasy time for the Bijapur Sultanate
☀️Ali Adil Shah II (r. 1656- 1676 CE) became the Sultan of Bijapur after his father Mohammad Adil Shah.
Mughal Emperor Shahjahan's goodwill may have been wearing out it seems. Moreover his son Aurangzeb's restless pleas ultimately compelled him to sanction an invasion towards their once ally; the Bijapur Sultanate. On the other hand the Sultanate's feudatory Nayaks attempted to revolt. And if that wasn't enough, the Maratha SHIVAJI's aggressions were also gaining momentum.
All through his 16 years reign Ali Adil Shah II was trapped with the Mughals on one side and the Marathas on the other. Sadly his efforts were in vain as the Sultanate had lost all its important territories to both the Mughals and Marathas. Ali Adil Shah II died in 1672 and lies buried at Barra Kaman.
☀️Sikandar Adil Shah (r. 1672- 1686 CE) was the last Sultan of Bijapur. He was only 5 years old when he ascended the throne, while his kingdom had crumbled. To make matters worse his regents had to put up with opportunistic nobles wanting a piece of the leftover cake.
The Bijapur Sultanate comes to an end
In 1686 Mughal emperor Aurangzeb laid siege on Bijapur and brought it under the Mughal Empire. Sikandar Ali Shah was humiliated, captured, bound in chains and imprisoned at Daulatabad fort where he died in 1700 CE at the age of 31. His burial place is called Sikandar Bag in Bijapur.
Next blog~ GULBARGA-BIDAR: signs of the Bidar Sultanate
There are many other monuments, houses etc that I may have missed out. Do comment and let me know your views. Thanks for taking the time and reading my blog. Bye for now!
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