An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
A historical exploration of Diu | Driving down coastal Saurashtra
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Diu is situated along the Saurashtra coastline approx 370 km/ 8 hr from Ahmedabad. It is advisable to combine Diu with a visit to Gir np, Junagadh, Somnath and Dwarka pilgrimage towns.
Where to stay ~ Most guest houses in Diu are mid-range 1000/ rs approx. As a budget traveller I stayed at a dormitory in Una town (16 kms/ 30 mins). Commuting was easy; there are ST buses and share autos from Una to Diu 20/ 30 rs fare.
Hotel Radhe Inn
Opp. Una Bus Stand, 2nd Floor, Radhe Arcade, GJ SH 104, opp. S.T, Saiyed Wada, Una, Gujarat 362560
Ever since Goa became a separate state, Diu has been referred to as The Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli, Daman and Diu. Each of the 4 territories are separated geographically. The island of Diu jutting out into the Arabian sea of peninsular Saurashtra region (Gujarat) encompasses a total area of 40 sq kms.
Before being ceded to the Portuguese it was historically a part of Saurashtra and ruled by many ancient and Medieval dynasties. Here is a sequential order of Diu's history to make your visit worthwhile.
1) Gangeshwar Mahadev temple
Among the oldest known places in Diu is the Gangeshwar Mahadev temple said to be about 5000 years old as the 5 lingas here are said to be installed by the 5 Pandavas.
Gangeshwar Mahadev temple, DIU
322 to 220 BCE- Mauryan era
SAURASHTRA was under the realm of Maurya empire under Emperor Chandragupta Maurya. Then came Emperor Ashoka (r. 273- 237 BC) followed by his grandson Samprati (r. 229- 220 BCE) who propogated the spread of Jainism here.
2) Navlakha Parshwanath Jain Derasar
Is a 1600 old Jain derasar which most likely is from that era. The main deity here is Shri Navlakha Parshvanath.
1600 years old Shri Navlakha Parshvanath Jain mandir. The temple has undergone many renovations since then.
9th to 14th CE- Reign of CHUDASAMA dynasty
The Chudasama dynasty kings of Junagadh ruled present-day Saurashtra.
3) The Tower of Silence
As Islam began to spread its deadly roots in the Middle East; the Zoroastrians (or Parsis) began to face persecution, and in a bid to preserve their religion and culture, they sought refuge here. The Tower of Silence is a Zoroastrian crematorium and a sign of their footprints on the soil of Gujarat. What is interesting though is despite being secretive about their customs and traditions, the tower of Silence here is open for public viewing... probably because the last Parsi left DIU a long time ago.
The disused Tower of Silence is located inside Diu fort
1407 to 1573 CE- GUJARAT SULTANATE
Trouble for SAURASHTRA began when the Gujarat Sultanate under Mahmud Shah I BEGADA (r. 1458 to 1511 CE) undertook a siege on Junagadh. He thereafter subjugated the CHUDASAMA kings and subsequently brought the region into the folds of the Sultanate. BEGADA then made DIU his naval base but eventually lost it to the colonial Portuguese rulers. Any signs of Muslim rule would have been obliterated by the Portuguese.
And so it seems that most existing monuments on the island are from the Portuguese era and thereafter...
4) DIU HARBOUR
Diu harbour as seen from the GHOGHA BRIDGE
In a bid to gain monopoly of the spice trade route across the Indian ocean, the Portuguese saw DIU as a formidable harbour for the purpose and wished to gain control of it. But they would have to lock horns with Sultan Mahmud BEGADA of the Gujarat Sultanate. On 3rd Feb 1509 the Portuguese fought a pitched battle at this very harbour in DIU against the combined forces of~ Gujarat Sultanate, Egyptian Mamluk Sultanate and the Zamorin of Calicut in the Battle of DIU 1509 CE.
The Battle of DIU ended in victory for the Portuguese and terrible losses to the Gujarat-Mamluk-Calicut camp.
Time progressed...
Mahmud BEGADA died (1511 CE) and was succeeded by his son Muzaffar Shah II (r. 1511 to 1526 CE). During this period the Portuguese who initially refused to take control of DIU, now came back for it. They wanted to build a fort at DIU, but Malik Ayyaz (governor of Gujarat) had a change of heart and postponed their request till his death (1522 CE).
Bahadur Shah of Gujarat (r. 1526 to 1535 CE) became the next Sultan. During his reign Mughal aggression was at its peak and they had captured much of Gujarat. In the bid to survive, Bahadur Shah chose the Portuguese as his ally for he felt they would help in restraining the Mughals. But it seems that may have been sheer over expectation on his part.
Now the question is~ hadn't the Gujarat Sultanate been doing all it could to frustrate the Portuguese in gaining their well-earned stronghold in Diu? Yes indeed they were!
On Dec 23, 1534, the Portuguese invited Sultan Bahadur Shah aboard their ship St. Mattheus promising him the required help provided they get control of Bassein (coastal Maharashtra, closer to Mumbai). The Sultan left with little choice agrees and The Treaty of Bassein was signed. The situation was pitiable for Bahadur Shah. The Portuguese got an upper hand and also took the liberty of building a fort at DIU in 1535.
The formidable Diu fort, DIU along the coast of Saurashtra
1538 CE- The Siege of DIU
The Portuguese were now in possession of DIU. A large army of 5000 to 6000 Portuguese soldiers from Goa were stationed on the island. Realising his blunder at the Treaty of Bassein, Sultan Bahadur Shah personally went aboard the Portuguese viceroy's ship in an attempt to persuade him to leave Diu and return to Goa. The viceroy however got info about the Sultan's secret alliance with the Deccan Sultanates in a bid to join forces against them. Bahadur Shah was therefore attacked, killed and his body dumped into the sea.
Bahadur Shah of Gujarat Sultanate attacked, killed and dumped into the sea by the Portuguese in 1537
Apparently Bahadur Shah, before his death had also been in a secret alliance with the Ottoman Turkish Empire in gaining back Diu. This led to an unpleasant situation for the Portuguese.
Slightly beyond the fort but within the city's outer walls is firangiwada, an old residential area with its 3 Portuguese era churches. Diu has a miniscule Roman Catholic population, which probably could be the reason why the diocese lacks the necessary funds to maintain these churches.
The St. Paul's Church seems to be the only active one around presently. The church was built in1610 CE and its architecture bears typical Renaissance Mannerist influence. The facade has a beautiful lace-like pattern.
St. Paul's Church, Diu India
The 400 year old (15th CE) St. Thomas church was converted into DIU MUSEUM, but undergoing repairs and is out of bounds presently. Yet another one (CHURCH OF ST. FRANCIS of ASSISI ) is converted into a hospital and fresh renovations are going on.
1538 to 1961 CE- Portuguese colonial rule in DIU
After the failed Siege of Diu in 1538, the Portuguese earned a permanent position in Diu right until Operation Vijay in 1961.
The Indo-Pakistan 1971 war is best remembered for India's victory against Pakistan and the creation of a new nation, namely; Bangladesh. But freedom does not come free, and there are many painful stories and reminders of this terrible time in India's history. One of them is the sinking of INS KHUKRI (F149) off Gujarat coast at Diu.
INS KHUKRI MEMORIAL (above) where the ship sank. (below) The actual INS KHUKRI now decommissioned, serves as a museum. It is kept at Diu port
INS KHUKRI MEMORIAL & INS KHUKRI (F149)
Indian Navy's frigate INS KHUKRI was torpedoed by a Pak submarine named Hangor during the Indo-Pak 1971 war. It was attacked and sank on 9 Dec 1971 at 8.45 pm. Total lost of lives 176 (incl. 18 officers). 67 survived the tragedy.
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