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After departing from Chitradurga, roughly 123 km/ 2.30 hrs north along NH-48 is HAMPI and incase you haven't yet, do check out my previous blog ~ Road trip from Bangalore to Vani vilas sagara dam and Chitradurga fort
After winding up with Chitradurga fort exploration, a friendly family driving along the same route offered to drop me till Hospet. About 1.30 hours down the road, we came to a lake by noon. Behind it was a big tree. So we bathed in the lake and then sat down under the tree to enjoy our lunch...
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| Road to Hampi (blog) |
It was almost evening when we reached Hospet and onward to Hampi. My guesthouse with bougainville creepers running around arch windows was rather quaint-looking. It was indeed a long tiring day; all I needed now was a warm meal, a hot shower and sound sleep.
How to reach and where to stay in Hampi
Hampi is Karnataka's famous tourist destination and is roughly 350 km/ 5.30 hrs from the nearest big city of Bangalore. Besides a good road there is also an excellent train network till Hospet (13 kms away).
Being a popular tourist destination, stay options are aplenty. Most budget places fall in the range of 500 to 1000rs per night. Karnataka tourism hotel has by far the best location bang in front of the Queen's bath but it's certainly more expensive.
< Day 2 >
The story about the mighty Vijayanagara Empire
The word Vijayanagara means 'a victorious city' which even though in ruins still stands on the banks of the river TUNGABHADRA in present-day Karnataka (South India). I felt it best to acquaint myself with some basic info about the Vijayanagara Empire before setting out on a personal discovery of HAMPI~ capital of the Vijayanagaras.
Last night while signing into the guest register, a Japanese name had caught my attention. "Could this be the one?" I wondered, as the girl with distinct oriental features was busy filling her plate with the sumptuous breakfast our host had laid out. "Sayonara!" I blurted out without even thinking. The girl turned around all of a sudden. The expression on her face seemed like 'WHAT AN IDIOT!', but I couldn't be sure. "Hi, good morning" she greeted me courteously, drawing her chair across the table.
"Firstly, I'm South Korean and secondly 'Sayonara' means "goodbye in Japanese, hahahaha." laughed the girl. "Hahaha..." I joined in, a bit embarrassed but feeling at ease that I could still laugh at myself. Now we were two heads peering into the Wikipedia page on my mobile.
Tip 1~ the best time to visit HAMPI is during the winter months of Nov, Dec, Jan. The terrain is generally rocky outgrowth thus making summers rather uncomfortable.
Tip 2- the ancient historical city of Hampi is vast and will easily take 2 whole days if you wish to explore at leisure plus an extra day (give or take). This can be done by foot, but even better by bicycle or moped.
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| Hampi ancient historical city, walking - cycling tour map |
Tip 3- wear comfortable shoes, head covering like a cap or scarf, sufficient water and some snacks if needed.
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| Ready to explore Hampi |
Exploring Hampi
A slight breeze gave a sign of hope for a pleasant day as we pedalled along the well-paved main Hampi road. Our first stop was a mammoth Ganesha in basalt. We spent some time here chatting about the the things we do and don't... I learnt that Mon my companion is a research student in Seoul with a special interest in Indian culture and heritage.
Passing by SISTER STONES and BHIMA GATEWAY, our next stop was the beautiful HAZARE RAMA TEMPLE before reaching the Royal Enclave.
We sat in the lawns for a short break and refreshments. I imagined how the Royal Enclosure may have looked at the height of the kingdom's prosperity.
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A rendition of how The Queen's bath (Royal Enclosure) Hampi might seem at the time.
Download this artwork to set up your mobile lock screen |
The monuments within the Royal Enclosure are many and the area vast, so we decided to take it easy. "You drink beer!?" asked Mon. "Now, don't I ?" I thought to myself. The weather had gotten a bit warm and the thought of chilled beer 🍺 did cross my mind. "But where is the beer?" I asked as meekly as I could. "at my room!" said Mon. So we picked up pace... headed towards the Elephant Stables and Lotus Mahal nearby before pedalling as fast as possible till we reached our pad.
A terrace dinner 🎉
"Here beer!" said Mon offering me two bottles of chilled non-alcoholic beer! 'non-alcoholic?'😟 not as I expected but that was still a kind gesture. Our host had prepared some delicious dinner to go with the beer.
< Day 3 >
Exploring Virupaksha temple, river Tungabhadra and Hampi bazar
After making exciting plans the previous night, we set out for another day of Hampi explorations. We walked in the direction of Hampi bazar which is primarily the most habitated area in Hampi. But at the break of dawn there was hardly anyone in sight. A huge temple stood to the left and the bazar to right; so we took the left.
The history of Sree Virupaksha temple can be traced as early as the 7th century, but it's transformation into the magnificent temple that it is today owes credit to the Vijayanagara kings. A large tree with broad branches stood right in the temple courtyard. Me and Mon were surprised at seeing a number of people who had taken refuge here at night, few were now rolling up their mats ready to start the day.
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| drinking hot chai and chatting within Virupaksha temple courtyard |
"Let's sit right here on the floor," I said glad to have found a nice clean spot. "Hey, chhooy chhooy", said Mon, in an accent that was quite getting on my nerves by now. Soaking in the peace and spiritual ambience of the temple precincts plus the aroma and flavor of hot ginger chai first thing in the morning made my day.
Where to eat in Hampi
Most guesthouses prepare meals for a charge, if you let them know in advance. There are also other decent places closer to Hampi bazar. Right beside Virupaksha temple are several makeshift food stalls that dish out idli, dosa and uttappams at reasonable rates. Overlooking the Tungabhadra river are some fashionable upscale cafés and restaurants.
Watching the temple elephants get bathed at the banks of the river is another rewarding experience during the morning hours. There were several coracle rides taking people across the Tungabhadra to Kishkindha on the opposite side, but we skipped it as Mon suggested we do a temple trail instead. The trail led us along the river edge on one side and ancient temples on the other. She had carried a notebook making notes and taking pics all along. I truly admired her interest and dedication in Indian history and culture.
After all that, we returned to our guesthouse for lunch and an afternoon siesta. "Would you like some jasmine tea?" I asked, peeling out two sachets of tea bags "Oh sure, why not?" said Mon. No sooner we finished the tea, we got down to the ancient Hampi bazar.
As the Vijayanagara Empire grew in wealth and importance, Hampi transformed into a modern city. Traders and merchants flocked here to what was once a bustling marketplace. An Iranian ambassador named Abdur Razzak mentions in his accounts that he hadn't seen another place as rich and opulent as Hampi. "Jewellers sell their rubies, pearls, diamonds and emeralds openly in the bazar." Yeah, this bazar... That now showed signs of neglect. As the footfall of tourists increased, so also the hawkers, eateries and a multitude of other shops that cater to them; thus causing undue pollution all around.
We then ventured further until the big monolithic bull and started an uphill climb over the boulder trail pulling our bicycles carefully until we reached Achyuta Raya's temple. "WoW, that was tough!" We heaved a sigh of relief and sat down a bit. After exploring the temple, we moved along Courtesan's street and onward to a cluster of temples~ Varaha, Rangnatha, Chakratirtha, Vitthala and Kodanda Rama. "Oh, how we wished we could stay here a bit longer, but the sun was setting fast and we needed to get back on track.
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| the sun is setting fast in Hampi |
< Day 4 >
Another well-intended early start to the day. The idea was to climb up Matangi hill and catch the early rays of the sun. So with a light backpack and water bottles; we walked past Hampi bazar . From here we began the climb uphill. As I found my way over the boulders and tuffs of greenery; it brought back fond memories of my adventures in Bangalore.
The trail was rocky with a few challenges, but Mon didn't seem to mind it one bit. Then came the moment of truth I was not expecting! The peak was just 20 meters away and all I had to do was walk along the edge of a cliff to get there. My throat ran dry just looking at the sheer drop below, "Don't look down, don't look down c'mon walk," screamed Mon who was already on the opposite side. But I refused to budge 😔 and waited for Mon... before climbing down the hill.
We might have missed a few places, but I was overall satisfied all the same. It was 10 am and we were ravenous so after a bite of idlis and coffee we planned on spending the rest of the day at the guesthouse.
We pitched in some cash and requested our kind host to prepare something special for dinner tonight.
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