An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
Beyond the Golden Triangle: 20 days Rajasthan tour
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If you wish to extend your Golden Triangle tour package; Delhi-Agra-Jaipur Beyond... into the desert state of Rajasthan, you're at the right place!
As this is a 20 day complete Rajasthan tour, begin your journey from Bikaner anytime between Nov to Feb.
[ 20 Days ]
Nov to Feb ➡️ Feb end/March
Bikaner.... ending Jaipur
Follow the route map (shown below) until you reach Jaipur by Feb-end/ March. That way you can now cover both Delhi and Agra in March when the climate is pleasant.
The Splendour of Rajasthan
Festivals of Rajasthan 2023
The 20 days period coincides with 3 major Rajasthani festivals, so plan accordingly-
1) Kite festival at Jaipur & Bundi during Sankranti ie.Jan 14.
2) Jaisalmer Desert festival, Jaisalmer during 1st week of Feb.
3) Holi celebrations at Pushkar during March. Also Pushkar Camel fair around Oct-Nov.
Note: Please confirm festival dates especially for Holi and Pushkar Camel Fair.
Tourist map of Rajasthan starting from Bikaner and ending in Jaipur
Climatic conditions in Rajasthan
From November to March temperatures in Rajasthan range between 8° Night to 32° Day with an average of 23°.
Disclaimer: There is no hard and fast rule to follow this route map. Follow what best suits your needs.
BIKANER: An oasis in the Thar desert
Who would have thought that a barren wilderness would become a princely state of exquisite palaces. Bikaner's history goes back to Mediaeval times, when it was founded by Rao Bika in 1465 after whome Bikaner is named. Thereafter it became a protectorate state under British India on 9 March 1818, before finally aceeding into the Republic of India on 7 Aug 1947.
Despite being part of the Thar desert, its relative importance owes to the fact that it lay along the trade route from Western India to Central Asia. Not only that, the city's adequate spring water supply made it a favourable halt for merchants along this trade route.
Location: Bikaner lies northwest of Rajasthan, bordering Pakistan.
Day 1- Junagarh fort palace and fort museum
This beautiful fort palace, situated in the heart of the city is worth a leisure tour for a couple of hours. It was built between 1589-1594 by Raja Rai Singh- the most iconic Maharaja of Bikaner.
Top- Front view of Junagarh fort palace. Below- The Private audience hall of Anup mahal in shimmering gold.
And after that is all done, don't forget to drop by the Fort museum right opposite. The museum has a rich collection of royal heirlooms; jewels, costumes, weapons, miniature paintings collection and much more.
Day 2- Laxmi Nivas palace, Seth Bhandasar Jain Temple
The Laxmi Nivas or Lalgarh palace is a legacy of Maharaja Sir Ganga Singh of Bikaner. Built around 1902-1926 in the Indo-Sarcenic style of architecture, the palace is indeed breathtaking. A visit to Lalgarh palace is not only a privilege, but the royal heirlooms; jewels, crockery, silverware, paintings, arts and artifacts displayed in the museum wing are a feast for sore eyes.
Seth Bhandasar Jain Templeis not only as intricately carved as other Jain temples, but is richly embellished with mirror work and sandstones.
Day 3- ICAR-National Research Centre on Equines Bikaner Campus, Karni mathi mandir, Deshnok
"What an amazing place this is... really!", was my first impression on stepping into ICAR- Bikaner horse and camel breeding campus. I had never seen anything like this before. The sight of miles and miles of pure bred horses is a dream come true especially if you are an equestrian at heart. Besides horses there are also various breeds of asses, mules etc. Each animal breed is labelled with name and description making it informative. There are also pony tonga rides for kids.
A stud named Toofan at ICAR- Bikaner horse-breeding farm, Rajasthan
Karni mata mandirDeshnok is 32 kms from the main city, hence utilise the day by heading further 29 kms south of ICAR.
This is an extraordinary temple where rats are revered, fed and roam freely around the temple. The temple is otherwise dedicated to Karni mata, an embodiment of Shakti. Devotees can partake of the simple free meal in the hall opp. the temple (there are no rats here).
The deserts of Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is at the heart of the Thar desert, also known as The Great Indian desert. Temperatures in summer (March to August) can even peak upto 47° C. This part of Rajasthan is quite distinct in culture, dress and climate. Similar to Bikaner. There are a number of historic places and exciting things to do in Jaisalmer.
Location: Jaisalmer also lies on the border with Pakistan. It is roughly 6 hrs/ 312 kms by road from Bikaner. If you opt for public transport; the most convenient train is Leelan SF Express 12468; leaves Lalgarh junction, Bikaner around midnight and reaches Jaisalmer early morning. Please refer to IRCTC site for more trains on the Bikaner-Jaisalmer route.
Day 4 POKHRAN fort and Hotel, Jaisalmer
In recent times, Pokharan gained popularity for an underground nuclear test conducted during the term of our late Prime minister, Atal Bihari Vajpayee.
Top- Some remains of Fort Pokharan, Bottom- the main fort palace is converted into a heritage hotel
Fort Pokharan, is an excellent lunch stopover en route Bikaner to Jaisalmer. The fort, a 14th century citadel of the Rathore Rajputs has been converted into a boutique heritage hotel. The restaurant offers buffet at reasonable prices. The beautiful fort palace lawns are great for some moments of relaxation. Please call and confirm before hand whether lunch reservation is required.
If you arrived Jaisalmer by train, make a day trip to Pokharan on a separate day [2 hours/ 100 kms from Jaisalmer].
Where to stay in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is a touristy place with multiple stay options. As a budget traveler/ backpacker I found several backpacker hostels in the range ₹150-₹300/ night range.
Hot tip💡The most coveted stay location in Jaisalmer are the hotels within Jaisalmer fort
Check-in and get the much needed rest.
Most hotels/ guest houses/ backpacker hostels also arrange your Camel Safari tour.
Also keep an eye for any marriage functions taking place in the vicinity. Besides digging into a free sumptuous dinner, It's a great way to experience a traditional Rajasthani marriage.
Top- The terrace sit-out from my Jaisalmer hotel overlooking the Jaisalmer fort. Below- a sumptuous Rajasthani delicious meal
Day 5- Gadisar lake, Jaisalmer fort
Jaisalmer is named after Maharaja Maharawal Jaisal Singh who founded the princely state of Jaisalmer and ruled from 1153-1168 CE.He built the Gadisar lake around 1367 CE. The lake is usually crowded in evenings, so it's ideal to spend a few quiet moments during the morning hours.
Jaisalmer fort perched on a hillock was among the first structures that was built by Maharawal Jaisal Singh in 1156 CE. It was strategically located along the wealthy trade routes, which was the kingdom's major source of income. The fort covers a vast area and it was within its massive walls that the city was contained for many centuries.
Jaisalmer fort, Rajasthan
Day 6- The abandoned village of Kuldhara, Bara bagh
30 kms/ 1 hr from Jaisalmer is the village of Kuldhara that has held the imagination of many conspiracy theorists. This was once a prosperous place sometime during the 13th ce, but the entire village was suddenly abandoned under mysterious circumstances.
On you return from Kuldhara stop by the Cenotaphs complex of Bara bagh. Cenotaphs as basically royal chattris that are memorials in their honour. The views of the artistically crafted chattris are breathtaking at sunset.
Day 7- Camel safari at Sam sand dunes
The highlight event of a Jaisalmer trip is almost always the Camel safari at the Sam Sand dunes further away from the city. The hotel staff will mostly likely organise this tour for you. Rates vary from ₹1000-₹2000 depending on the experiences on offer. The Camel safaris usually begin by evening when the temperature is moderate. If you opt for a night out in the desert carry some warm clothing, as nights can be a bit cold.
Camel safaris in Jaisalmer take place at Sam sand dunes
Jodhpur: the Blue city
Jodhpur, yet another formerly princely state of Rajasthan is best known for its timeless beauty set amidst a stark Thar desert landscape. Its magnificent Mehrangarh fort palace, from the bastions of which one can get a splendid view of the Blue old city below. Its temples and royal chatris are equally wonderful.
Jodhpur was founded by Rao Jodha in 1459 after whome the city was named. After asserting independence from the clutches of the Delhi Sultanate, Rao Jodha founded the kingdom of Marwar and made Jodhpur the formal capital of Marwar. Similar to Jaisalmer, Jodhpur also lay along the strategic trade route from Delhi to Gujarat. Thus earnings from trade-based taxes contributed to its flourishing economy.
Location: Jodhpur is approx 5 hrs/ 265 kms from Jaisalmer. Start the day early to avoid the mid-day heat.
Day 8- Jaswant Thada, Mehrangarh fort
Jaswant Thada is a complex of royal cenotaph or chattris located on a hillock at a short distance from Mehrangarh fort. They were built in 1899 in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. This place is also the exclusive cremation ground for the erstwhile royals of Marwar.
Mehrangarh fort is a jewel in the crown among the fort palaces of Rajasthan. I was astonished to see how beautifully maintained and planned the fort it. A tour of Mehrangarh is best experienced during the evening hours.
Top- the façade of Mehrangarh fort, Bottom- A view of the old blue city from a bastion of Mehrangarh
There is a winding road that leads from the fort to the city below, making for an adventurous easy hike experience.
💡If Day 8 is insufficient, please do an easy relaxed Jodhpur tour on Day 9 (next day).
Day 9- Ranakpur Jain temple, Kumbhalgarh fort
Start the day early for a 4 hour/ 172 kms drive to your next destination.
Initially, I felt Kumbhalgarh could be visited en route. But I was wrong! Besides the incredibly beautiful Ranakpur Jain temple complex along Jodhpur-Udaipur road, there is also the Kumbhalgarh fort that I was unable to visit. Hence I presume Kumbhalgarh will require a day. There are many budget and mid-range hotel options in Kumbhalgarh.
Day 10- Nathdwara, Udaipur
After Kumbhalgarh, drive 1½ hours towards Nathdwara for a quick darshan of Shrinathji (a swarup of Krishna) before heading onwards to Udaipur.
Where to stay in Udaipur
The best place to stay in Udaipur are hotels overlooking Lake Pichola.
A view of Lake Pichola from my guest house terrace at Udaipur
Udaipur offers a number of exciting leisure activities; from a relaxing Boat cruise on Lake Pichola [6am to 9pm] to TraditionalCultural activities at Bagore ki haveli, Gangaur ghat. Gangaur ghat at sunset makes for some great photo ops. Kindly take help from your hotel staff.
Udaipur: the city of lakes and fort palaces
Udaipur was founded by Maharaja Udai Singh II of the Sisodia dynasty clan in 1559. It later became a British princely state of Rajputana like the rest (1818), before finally acceeding to the Republic of India in 1947.
Day 11- Jagdish mandir (temple), City Palace Udaipur, Shopping
Starting the day with aarti at Jagdish temple is a profound spiritual experience. The temple has been here since 1651 and is especially sought after by Krishna devotees. Right across the temple is Udaipur pièce de resistance; the City Palace, Udaipur. Entry to the palace and palace museum may seem steep slightly over ₹500/ but nevertheless An Indulgent Experience to say the least. Every wall panel, pillar and post is simply dripping in luxury and gives us an insight into the lives of the Maharajas that lived here. A portion of the palace is out of bounds for visitors as it is still home to the present royal scions. Photography is prohibited inside the palace-museum.
After lunch get the much needed rest and later spend the evening exploring the city. The market area is dotted with a number of old Rajasthani haveli that are a feast for the eyes.
Eclectic mix of havelis, and shops selling traditional Rajasthani crafts and curios
Day 12- Fateh Sagar lake, Sajjangarh monsoon palace
Fateh Sagar lake is a freshwater reservoir name after Maharana Fateh Singh of Udaipur. It's serene picturesque surrounding make it ideal for a short visit. Along the he way you will pass by Chand pole and Hathi pole, two historical fortified gates of the Udaipur. Sajjangarh monsoon is approx 6 kms westwards of the lake.Post lunch visit the Vintage Car museum, a short distance from lake Pichola.
Day 13- Chittorgarh: the stories of Rani Padmini
Chittorgarh fort, perched on a hill is said to be one of the largest forts in India, and covers a total area of approx 700 acres. The fort complex comprises of 4 palaces, many temples, water bodies and historic monuments. This is the place where the stories of Rani Padmini and all brave Rajput men and women echoes. The Rajputs sacrificed their lives as they knew very well the the evil deeds that Muslim rulers were capable of. For this reason alone they sacrificed their lives to defend their dignity and honour.
Top- The stambh (Victory tower) of Chittorgarh stands testimony to the brave spirits of Sacrifice in the pursuit of defending honour and dignity. Bottom- one of the many artistically carved temple in the fort
Hotels in Chittorgarh are fewer and only available at the foothills. One needs to hire an autorickshaw to reach the fort on top. For this reason alone I preferred a fort exploration en route Bundi. Also, I found it rather uncomfortable exploring this huge fort under the heat of the mid-day sun. Should you find a suitable accommodation for the night I totally vouch staying here and covering the fort before noon. Fort Timings- 9 am to 5 pm.
Less than 4 hours from Chittorgarh is Bundi, an erstwhile princely state known for its acclaimed Bundi style paintings that left me totally spellbound. For those who love art and culture Bundi is A must-visit. In contrast the town's streets and general upkeep leaves a lot to be desired. The hotels and guest houses here extend their hospitality in a worthy manner. There are also some decent restaurants for a nice warm meal to end your day.
Day 14- Taragarh fort, Bundi palace.
Begin your Bundi exploration with a visit to Taragarh or Garh fort and palace as it is normally called. The fort was built around 1345 CE and is worth spending a few hours admiring its elaborate architecture and Bundi paintings in the royal halls. What I found particularly really, is the art restoration and maintenance of the fort.
I was fortunate to be in Bundi during the kite-flying festival (Jan 14) and I assure you it was even more rewarding to what I have seen in Ahmedabad. See the below video 👇
Spend your evening hours at Bundi Palace. This is where you can feast your eyes on a medley of Bundi paintings. Take your time and let it all soak in.
Pushkar: Where spirituality meets celebration
The ghats along the Pushkar lake are reminiscent of Varanasi and Haridwar. This is the scene for the famous annual Pushkar Camel mela around Oct-Nov.
Day 15- Pushkar aarti by the ghats
Location: Pushkar is roughly 4hrs/ 180km slightly NW of Bundi.
If you happen to reach here by evening; after Check-in, head straight to the ghats for an exhilarating aarti experience. What I really like about Pushkar are the innumerable restaurants overlooking the tranquil Pushkar Lake. This place is a favourite with foreign tourists, quite similar to Rishikesh and it's easy to feel that vibe here.
Day 16- Trailing the ghats along Pushkar lake
The Pushkar lake is dotted with a number of ghats that have their own unique vibe. You will pass by several temples, especially the age-old Brahma temple.
The Pink city of Jaipur
Jaipur is the capital of the state of Rajasthan. Pink is the predominant colour of the sandstone buildings that dominate the city's skyline. There is much to see and do in Jaipur.
Day 17- Hawa Mahal, Market around Hawa Mahal
Location: The distance from Pushkar to Jaipur is approx 3 hrs/ 141 kms NW, ie. The road leading ahead to Delhi.
Built in reddish-pink sandstone, the Hawa Mahal is Jaipur's iconic monument. It's a great moment for amazing Instagram worthy photo-ops. Spend the rest of the day soaking in the city's vibe,shopping for curios and hanging out at a restaurant nearby.
Day 18- City Palace Jaipur, Jantar Mantar
Similar to the City Palace Udaipur, here too the royal family lives in a portion of the palace, while the rest is open for viewing. The palace and museum are interesting and dripping in luxury. One thing I noticed is that the ticket price is rather steep, but no less a privilege to gain insight into the lives of the erstwhile Jaipur royals. A short distance from the City palace is the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory. Unlike modern astronomical observatories, this one was built for the naked eye (1724 to 1735). The credit for building this observatory goes to Raja Jai Singh II after whome this city is named.
Day 19- Amer or Amber fort palace, Jal Mahal
The mammoth Amber fort is truly greater than life. The manner in which the fort is situated literally took my breath away. The fort's massive walls goes as far as the eye can see and is an excellent example of Rajput architecture. There are many interesting features to the fort, such as~ Diwan-i-Aam, Diwan-i-khas, the hall of mirrors (Sheesh Mahal) and the unmistakable elephant pathway going up towards the fort. This is a reasonable entry fee.
Top- Amer or Amber fort Jaipur, Bottom- Jal Mahal Jaipur
I don't think it's possible to enter Jal Mahal palace, but it looks rather picturesque right in the middle of the Man Sagar lake at sunset. Nice to spend a few relaxing moments and try out the street food (snacks) around.
Day 20- Nahargarh fort, Jaigarh fort
These are other forts in Jaipur. If time permits also visit the temples and explore the once fortified city walls just to take you back in time.
Connect to your Golden Triangle tour
Jaipur is the 1st place on the Golden Triangle tour circuit. Next is Delhi. There are multiple easy and convenient travel options to DELHI from Jaipur.
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