Indian railways is the 4th longest rail network in the world and covers almost all parts of India. It’s efficient, cost-effective and takes the stress out of a tiring bus ride- so basically this means, I need to get back on track.
Previous blog- bike ride : Chikmagalur to Kemmangundi
< Day 1 >
Manguluru to Mahé
07:20 | MANGALURU CNTL 10:04 | MAHE 2S 85rs AC Chair car 305rs approx. 3 hrs.
Mahé is a district of Puducherry, located on the Malabar (Kerala) coast. It is famous for the Shrine of St. Teresa of Avila said to be the oldest in India, and from what I had read people throng here to have their prayers answered. We were lucky to get here Sunday morning. and be part of the Sunday worship (mass).
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| Temples of Kerala |
Tip : It’s a good idea to keep a sari handy if you wish to visit places of worship. For men, basic formals/ semi formals are fine.
Mahe is a quiet, small town which is not too populated. Since Union territories have some tax benefits you can find the place dotted with foreign liquor shops, selling cheaP tax-free liquor. We looked around for a decent meal and found a nice restaurant with private table spaces where you can have a drink and eat a meal. Pssst… a cool tip is to pick the stuff you need before heading down south Kochi.
Am I the only one, or have you noticed- alcoholism is almost negligible in states where it is cheap, than those states where it’s expensive. Goa, Pondicherry, Daman are some states and UTs, where it’s rare to find a drunk walking down the road. But look at Tamil nadu (particularly Chennai) on the other hand - the city is deteriorating due to alcohol addiction.
It’s past noon and although it wasn’t part of the plan, I felt it a good idea to stay back today, and continue my journey tomorrow. Thalassery is the closest city to Mahé and you can find better stay options in different price ranges.
A short walk around Mahé revealed traces of its French colonial heritage, especially the stately-looking Government House. Traditional Malabar style homes and swaying palm trees began unfolding before me. The beautiful landscape of Kerala. which I had only seen in pictures was now a reality.
< Day 2 >
Mahe to Kozhikode
10:05 | MAHE 11:07 | KOZHIKODE 2S 50rs AC Chair car 265 rs approx 1 hr
It was noon when we reached Kozhikode, so after checking-in to our hotel, we headed straight to their rooftop restaurant, and without much ado I ordered chilled red wine and Kerala fish thali to go with the view and my mood. This is by far the best combo in a long time! The fish gravy was absolutely delicious and so was the wine!
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| delicious Kerala fish thali at Kozhikode |
Kozhikode has several budget and mid-range hotels besides the premium luxury hotels you can choose from. I went for something in-between budget and mid-range, but it was perfect and close to the sea.
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| Kozhikode beach |
Valiyangadi market : the oldest market in Kozhikode
Kozhikode was a major trading port for Arab merchants as early as the 7th century, followed by Vasco da Gama (Portuguese explorer) who dropped anchor here in 1498- thus opening a trade route between Europe and the Malabar region.
Taking a stroll down Valiyangadi market (close to the pier) is like walking back in time. A time when merchants from distant lands docked their ships here, to trade in spices. It is still a busy wholesale market with merchants trading in grains, coconuts, spices, metals and textiles.
Shopping in Kozhikode
You can buy Kozhikode’s famous banana chips fried in coconut oil, and halwa (made of rice flour, jaggery and ghee- they come in all colors). You can also find miniature seafaring vessels carved out of wood- these make interesting curios and gift articles.
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| Shopping in Kozhikode |
My best find however is a traditional Kerala 2 piece mundu saree, in mute cream and gold. Mundu sets are comfortable cottons, and a simple one can cost 150 rs to 500 rs (depending on the quality). These are especially great when visiting places of worship. Mundus sets also come for men.
Late evening, we took a stroll down the well-paved beach, sampling some raw mango, carrots, gherkins in brine- which is a tangy (khatta meetha) lip-smacking snack/ appetizer, you will find these a lot in Kerala (I lub it).
I then found a nice restaurant for dinner. Kerala certainly doesn’t let you down when it comes to good food.
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| veggies in brine, tangy appetizer can be found in Kerala |
< Day 3 >
Temples of Kozhikode
Temples in Kerala are unique in their traditional style with slanting tiled roofs and single storey basic design. The walls and façade of some temples are made of wood giving it a beautiful look.
Kozhikode has many such temples. After breakfast, we hired an auto and asked the auto driver to take us on a temple tour. The best part is the temples are within the city. Few of the important temples are : Thiruvannur Siva temple, Tali Maha Shiva temple and Valayanad devi temple.
Beaches of Kozhikode
The two better known beaches around Kozhikode are Kappad beach about 20 kms north and Beypore beach 10 kms south.
At sunset Beypore is a sight to behold, you can walk almost 2 kms down the jetty promenade (sea walk) flanked by stylish street lamps- it looks like a perfect setting for a movie song sequence. The refreshing sea breeze is an added bonus.
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| Beypore beach, Kozhikode |
Friends, I do hope you enjoyed this blog. Your comments will be appreciated. Do subscribe for more exciting places.
1 : Please review IRCTC site for train availability, timings, Covid-19 guidelines and other general info
Bye for now 😊
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