SINHAGAD fort: virtual tour and history| Top Shivaji forts in Maharashtra

Previously known as Kondana, the hill fort of Sinhagad is about 27km/ 1 hr from Katraj (Pune). Like all Shivaji forts, Sinhagad too evokes nostalgia and a sense of nationalist pride. 

Previous blog post- Raigad- the capital of Hindavi Swarajya 

A fascination for Maratha history prompted me to walk The Great Maratha trail, and while doing so, I observed that ~ unlike most royals who indulged in grandiose palaces, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was identified by his forts. His goal was Hindavi Swarajya - a glorious Hindu state, the seed for which is sown first in the mind, and Shivaji was himself a warrior king. ⚔️ 

Maratha forts are known by two distinct features ~ (a) they were purely built for defence and were battle-worthy. (b) they lacked ornate palaces or sprawling gardens like the royals of Rajasthan and other parts of India. So I was expecting nothing new from SINHAGAD.

How to reach Sinhagad from Pune

If you intend to simply explore the fort along with family and friends; it's advisable to drive all the way up to the fort parking lot.

From Swargate [opp. Natraj hotel], there are direct buses to Sinhagad [look out for Sinhagad board buses].  OR  Board bus from Shaniwar wada to Sinhagad paytha (Sinhagad foothills). From here on, share autos are available till the fort parking lot.

💡The bus to Sinhagad passes by Khadakwasla dam, another popular hangout for Punekars.

Sinhagad trek basic info

Trek level - Medium

Trek start point - Donje village 

Trail - A continuous uphill strenuous 3kms climb that should take 2 hrs for a reasonably fit first-timer. Trekking during monsoons has its own charm and challenge. 

Wear shoes with good grip. Avoid sandals and chappals. Keep a light rain jacket during monsoons. Stay equipped with a first aid kit, water and a camera/ phone camera for good pics.

Getting caught up in sudden showers midway during the trek to Sinhagad

My first attempt was a complete washout due to the sudden spate of showers. It was almost 4.30 pm when we reached Donje village. After enquiring about we met up with a local who offered to be our guide."Isn't it too late?" I wondered, but dismissed the thought as unnecessary!

The initial climb was easy until we got to the start of the incline. Sinhagad is a well-trod trail. Every weekend busloads of trekking enthusiasts descend here. "If we keep this pace we should reach up within an hour," said our guide, a middle-aged man wearing a simple pair of chappals. Easier said than done! The climb went on for a while (maybe 15 mins), when suddenly we noticed rain bearing clouds moving swiftly in our direction. Oh, What a sight it was! Ignoring our guide we stopped steadfast in our steps. The sight of the rugged mountain landscape accompanied by sounds of thunder ⚡ and lightning 🌩️was incredible.  

The slippery steps: monsoon trek to Sinhagad 

The weather was perfect, but the trail had gotten muddy and slippery, and within minutes we were totally drenched, thus forcing us to abandon the remaining part of our trek for the day. 

...the coming weekend we managed to complete the trek uphill successfully.

💡Avoid weekends as the trail is way too crowded. 

💡Get an early start to avoid the midday heat. There are a lot of places to rest along the way. There are also small tapris (stalls) who serve thirst quenchers like nimbu pani, Kokum sarbat, buttermilk and eatables. So take breaks as needed to make the uphill climb interesting.

💡There are a few tricky patches along which most people manage to overcome, so good luck with that!

History of Sinhagad and fort exploration 

Sinhagad existed much before the Marathas took control of it. Ancient carvings of Kaundinyeshwar temple trace the fort's history to 2000 year ago. As the wave of muslim invasions swept across the Deccan, Sinhagad eventually became part of the Delhi Sultanate during the TUGHLAQ era (1328 CE). As the Delhi Sultanate disintegrated, it became part of the Bahmani Sultanate, followed by the Ahmednagar Sultanate (1485 CE), and the Adil Shahis of Bijapur (late 1500s thereafter.  

Similar to Purandar, Sinhagad became part of *Shahji Bhosale's Pune jagir, by way of a grant that he received from Bijapur Sultanate. With the passing of time, Shahji's son Shivaji settled for nothing less than Hindavi Swarajya, and began resisting the Adil Shahis resulting in the fort slipping out of their hands.

* Shahji Bhosale was Shivaji's father. He served as military commander for the Bijapur Sultanate.

Suggested read- A historical tour of Bijapuri- the capital of Adil Shahis 

💡 Sinhagad is vast and has many interesting features, hence please allow minimum 3 hours time for exploration.

The recapture of Kondana (1647, 1656 CE)

Bapuji Mudgal Deshpande (1608 to 1665 CE) was Shivaji's military general who headed a light infantry of 500 Maratha soldiers. In 1647, he succeeded in usurping the Adil Shahis and gained complete control of Kondana. The Bijapuris retaliated by despatching a small batch of soldiers headed by  Ghorpade (another Maratha chieftain serving the Adil Shahis) against Bapuji. Ghorpades gained an upper hand and managed to wrest control of Kondana on behalf of the Bijapur Sultanate.

1656- In a strategic diplomatic move, Bapuji Mudgal Deshpande managed to convince the muslim killedar of Kondana to swap the fort in return for tax-free land. And that is how Kondana was finally recaptured without any battle at the time.  

The first entry gate of Sinhagad fort- Pune darwaza-1

 

Beyond the parking lot there are a few more flights of steps, before one enters the 1st gate ~ Pune darwaza 

1670- The Battle of Sinhagad: Mughals v/z Marathas 

The Treaty of Purandar In 1665 impacted Maratha possessions. They conceded 23 forts (out of the 35) to the Mughals and Sinhagad was one among them.  

The 2nd doorway, Pune darwaza-2 

We stepped into the fort just in time to feel the midday heat. It had been a tiring trek and we were famished! Our kind guide pointed out to a shady spot where we could rest awhile and relish a meal.  

A simple Maharashtrian meal of Vangyache Bharit (baingan bharta), bhakri and taak (buttermilk)

💡Visitors atop Sinhagad fort are rewarded with multiple traditional food options ~ bhakri pithale, matki usal, kanda bhaji chai etc. 

Sardar Jai Singh I who had besieged Purandar died at Burhanpur (28 Aug 1667) in a military campaign. This would be a major setback for the Mughals, thereby turning the tides in favor of the Marathas. During the same period emperor Aurangzeb was himself forced to depart to the north due to impending Afghan attacks to his North-western frontier. In 1670, his son Mu'azzam  who had been attempting to wrest control of the Deccan region for some time now, proclaimed himself emperor in his father's absence. [It is believed Mu'azzam conspired with the Marathas to overthrow Aurangzeb].

But Mu'azzam was a weak emperor. The Marathas saw this as a golden opportunity to regain their losses. Shivaji Maharaj broke the treaty of Purandar unilaterally and began his onslaught. 

Sinhagad was the first fort they set out to recapture! 

We then set out to explore the fort~~ the horse stables were in a cooler part of the fort. Top khana or storeroom for cannons. Kaundinyeshwar is the ancient Shiva temple with carvings dating back to 2000 years. The fort was named Kondana after this temple. 

💡 Fort timings - daily from 6am to 6pm 

TANAJI MALUSARE: The unsung warrior

On receiving the sudden call for the recapture of Kondana, amidst the marriage preparations of his son Raiba, Tanaji remarked, "aadhi lagan Kondhanyache, aani mag majhya Raibache" "Recapture of Kondhana is my priority; my son's marriage can wait."

Tying himself to a monitor lizard, Tanaji led a group of 300 mavle infantry soldiers (ie. soldiers from the Maval region) to scale the fort walls closer to Kalyan gate. It was well-planned strategy. The Marathas with the aid of rope ladders scaled the walls and killed the sentinels on guard. Amid the fighting, Tanaji's shield broke, but despite being in a disadvantageous position the combat continued. The mavales caused heavy casualties to the Mughals killing more than a 1000 that day. 

Tanaji Malusare scaling the fort walls during the recapture of Kondana [Sinhagad fort]

Udaybhan Singh Rathod, a rajput held out for the Mughals. Almost defenceless without his sword, the wounded Tanaji succumbed and lost his life in the battle. Tanaji's brother Suryaji and his troops took over and overpowered the enemy. The Marathas then set the enemy cavalry line on fire, the blaze was an indication to Shivaji that the fort was won.  

Sinhagad fort fortifications blend well with the mountains

On learning about Tanaji's death, Shivaji remarked with deep sorrow, "gad ala pan Sinha Gela," meaning "We won the fort, but lost the lion." Thereafter, Kondana was renamed SINHAGAD in memory of the Lion who fought to recapture it!

On a clear day, one can view Raigad, Purandar and Torna forts and also Khadakwasla dam below. 

The highest point of the fort is Tanaji samadhi. 

Sinhagad remained part of the Maratha empire until the end of its reign. It later came under control of the British until India's Independence.

After an amazing day trip, we were back at Donje village. Our kind guide invited us to his humble home for tea. I had also carried a bottle of fruit wine for good measure.  

Refreshments after a hard day's work 

 

I do hope you enjoyed reading this blog. Do comment below and share it with others 🙏  

An empty bus ride from Sinhagad base to Pune

Next blog post- Trek to Tikona (Vithangad fort) from Pune