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Previous blog post- Pratapgad, a decisive victory
1659 CE- Marathas v/z Bijapur Sultanate
After a thumping victory at the Battle of Pratapgad Shivaji captured the fort of Panhala from Bijapur Sultanate, lost it and regained it in 1673 CE. Over the next few years the Maratha warrior consolidated his gains of forts and villages from Bijapur, while keeping the Mughals at arms length through diplomatic means.
1659 to 1666- Mughals v/z Marathas
When diplomacy with the Mughals wore out and hostilities resumed, a series of back and forth attacks were conducted on either side. Both Marathas and Mughals gained some and lost some.
1666 to 1670- Marathas & Mughals v/z Bijapur Sultanate
In a win-win situation both Marathas & Mughals made peace agreements and allied against the Adilshahis. These targeted campaigns resulted in a decline of the Bijapur Sultanate.
1670 to 1673- Mughals v/z Marathas
Aurangzeb had far too much on his hands than he could handle. On one side was the threat of being overthrown by his own son Mu'azzam, and on the other hand he faced threats from Afghans on the Northwestern frontier. This put considerable pressure on his forces, thereby presenting a golden opportunity for Shivaji. In the year 1670 and within just 4 months, Shivaji recovered all lost territories from Mughals.
To read a detailed blog post on Maratha history click on the link.
Raigad- a symbol of Maratha pride and glory
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| A glimpse of the Sahyadri landscape from Raigad |
How to reach Raigad
In order to get to Raigad, you first need to reach Mahad. There are several S.T. buses from Pune's Swargate bus stand that leave for Mahad (approx 140 km/ 3½ hr). Kindly review the bus timings in advance. If you prefer a slightly expensive but relaxed journey, there are private ac volvo buses available (specific timings).
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| A shepherd of the Sahyadris, Maharashtra |
After the Pratapgad fort tour and a quick meal at a small restaurant roundabouts, I boarded the S.T. bus leaving for Mahad (via Polandur). It was almost 5.30 pm when I arrived at Mahad bus stand and certainly not worth the effort to travel onward to Raigad. Also the last S.T. bus for Raigad is at 5 pm.
💡There are 2 different routes -
a) Pune > Mulshi, Tamhinighat- 135km
b) Pune > Bhor, Varandhghat- 155km
Where to stay in Raigad/ Mahad
Most stay options are farther away from Raigad. Hence I recommend staying at Mahad. it's well-connected and hotels are in the range of 1000rs/night avg. There are few guest houses enroute Mahad to Raigad. The S.T depot staff informed there isn't any stay option at Raigad itself (atop the fort/ hill).
What to see in Mahad
Chowder tank- is right in the centre of Mahad town. In 1927, as a symbolic blow to the age old caste system,
BR Ambedkar drank water from the tank, previously reserved for upper castes. 10,000 backward caste people had gathered with him in an event called the Mahad Satyagraha.
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| Chowder tank, Mahad |
Next day-
Getting from Mahad to Raigad
There are S.T. buses that leave from Mahad depot to Raigad fort base. These buses leave at specific intervals and the fare is Rs. 40/- pax. Alternatively, you can also get a shared 6-seater (typically large auto), they charge Rs.50.
💡Go by ropeway and descend the stairs on your return for a total experience.
The ropeway (cable car) starts from Pachad village. It just takes 5 min by ropeway and is an excellent way to get to the top quickly.
Rope way costs Rs 300 per person.
Rope way closes at 5:30 pm.
There is a museum at the base of the hill near the ropeway ticket counter. Do stop by. The exhibits on display are a collection of manuscripts, weapons and other memorabilia related to the fort and Shivaji.
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Marathas Swords collection on display at Raigad museum
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| Old Maratha documents displayed at Raigad museum (Pachad village) |
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| Old Maratha documents displayed at Raigad museum (Pachad village) |
At the time of Shivaji's birth 1630 CE, power in the Deccan was shared by 3 muslim rulers - The Bijapur Adil Shahis, Golconda Sultanate and Nizamshahis of Ahmednagar. Then on 26 April 1645 at just 15 years of age, Shivaji along with his band of followers took the oath of establishing Hindavi Swarajya at the temple of Raireshwar in Bhor. Tanaji Malusare was one among these.
💡 Hindavi Swarajya~ An independent Hindu state, free from foreign rule
By 1674, Shivaji had acquired an extensive territory plus wealth from his multiple campaigns. But he was still looked upon as a Mughal and Bijapur zamindar/ jagirdar. It was now about time to establish his own sovereign Maratha state.
💡There are many Maratha forts across Maharashtra's Sahyadris and the Konkan coast. However the majority of them were built by previous rulers and later seized by Marathas. Only 4 forts were built from scratch by Shivaji Maharaj. 3 are located in the same line along the Sahyadri range, and 1 along the Konkan coast. These are:
🏯 Sindhudurg- a sea-fort, Konkan
🏯 Pratapgad- where his mother Jijabai lived
🏯 Sinhagad- his own personal den &
🏯 Raigad- his second capital. Raigad, originally called Rairee, was a modest outpost under Chandrarao More, the Bijapuri vassal, before it was captured by Shivaji and built into the fort we see today.
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| View of Rairi hills from the cable car (ropeway) at Raigad |
Design and architecture of Raigad fort: the legacy of Hiroji Indulkar
A distinct feature of forts built by Shivaji Maharaj is the selection of the site itself
The Rairi hill near Mahad was selected as a suitable capital because of its scalable rock face. Like other Maratha forts, this too was designed to blend in with the topography. If someone were to see the fort from the foothills, it simply looks like a huge mountain. It's difficult to spot any fortifications. This feature is meant to misguide, confuse and avert the enemy eye.
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| Raigad's fortifications are so well camouflaged against the mountainous landscape that one needs to zoom in to see it clearly. Raigad fort fortification view, pic taken from Tak Mak viewpoint |
There is only one pathway leading up to the fort. People at the time were challenged with handsome gifts, should they come up with unconventional ways of climbing to the top undetected.
The curved entrance of the Maha darwaza (main gateway) is designed to pose a challenge to enemy troops advancing with elephants, as well as making it difficult for cannon fired from below. Besides there were two huge bastions on either side. This doorway was shut at sunset.
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| The curved main entrance of Raigad (fort) Maharashtra |
There are also other doorways (darwaza) inside the fort complex such as; Palkhi darwaza, Mena darwaza.
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| Mena darwaza was the private entrance for the royal ladies |
💡 Raigad is vast and expansive, and will take 2 days to cover all 45 points. However, like most people, allow at least half day to cover the main points. Guides are available and charge according to #of points. Guides speak mainly in Marathi and Hindi. Insist on an English speaking guide if you absolutely need one.
Climbing past the Mena darwaza, Immediately to your left is Queens' enclave and to the right are the Administrative quarters. It is from this fort that Shivaji conducted his durbar and where his wives lived.
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| Map of Raigad- Queens enclave, Administrative block and Palkhi darwaza |
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The fire 🔥 of Nationalism |
Rajwada or Administrative block appears vast and barren. When the British were in control of this fort from 1858 to 1947, savagery and greed prompted them to set this part of the fort on fire~ A fire that raged for close to 2 weeks. A visit to Raigad instils a deep sense of nationalism among Indians they felt, and that would endanger their interests here.
Rajwada contained the Durbar hall- where Shivaji Maharaj conducted office. Khalbatkhana- a room for secret strategies, Secretariat (Sachivalaya), Palace of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, Mint etc.
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| Mint at Raigad, Shivaji forts of Maharashtra |
Queen's Enclave- there are 6 chambers in all; for Rajmata Jijabai and other royal ladies of the household.
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| A splendid view of the Sahyadri mountain range from the Queen's Enclave- Raigad (fort), Maharashtra |
💡Raigad fort entry ticket counter- open from 8am to 5pm. Indian Rs.10/ & Foreigners Rs.100/.
Palkhi darwaza- the name itself suggests this is the Royal gate, Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj's palanquin convoy passed through this gate.
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| Palkhi darwaza at Raigad (fort), Maharashtra |
Ganga sagar talav - is an artificial lake created and filled with water from the Ganges. This water was utilised for the purpose of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj's coronation ceremony.
Shivraj Abhishek: Shivaji Maharaj's Coronation Ceremony (June 6, 1674)
Inspite and despite the fire of Hindavi Swarajya that burned inside the Maratha's heart and for which he fought tooth and nail against muslim invaders and the British alike~ what mattered even more to the Brahmins of Shivaji's court was his CASTE. The status of 'king' they believed is befitting only to a Kshatriya*. Shivaji on the other hand had humble ancestral roots. He came from a pastoral militant community.
*A Kshatriya is a warrior militant clan who wears the sacred thread.
And therefore to resolve the caste-bound mindset that existed then, Gaga Bhat, a Brahmin scholar from Varanasi was called for. Gaga Bhat was a well-renowned vedic scholar who stated that not only Shivaji's actions and deeds qualified his status as a Kshatriya. But even his ancestry could be traced to Kshatriyas who had migrated here.
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| This quote by Gaga Bhatt validates Shivaji as a Kshatriya fit to be a King |
On 6 June, 1674 Shivaji was formally crowned Chhatrapati ie. Sovereign and Raigad was made capital of the newly formed Hindavi Swarajya.
Megh dambari and Durbar - is the main Durbar hall where Shivraj Abhishek (Crowning ceremony) was performed. This is a truly spacious area. My guide explained that the durbar hall is acoustically designed in such a way that even a whisper in the doorway can be heard near the Throne.
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| Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj's throne, Raigad Maharashtra |
The original golden throne weighing 1000 kg was whisked away by the British. In its place is a replica throne with a life-size statue of Shivaji. The throne faces the main doorway or Nagarkhana.
Opposite the durbar is the old market place- worth a stroll. Also look out for Holicha maal- a place for Holi celebrations at the time, Haathi khana- elephant 🐘 stables and nearby Haathi talav watering hole for elephants. Last but not the least walk ahead tll the edge of a cliff called as Tak mak tok- this is the place where prisoners sentenced to death, met their fate after being pushed off the cliff.
Final tributes to the King and his Architect
Before we leave Raigad, let's pay our tributes to the King who was Knowing, Decisive and Took Action for what he believed was Right.
Jagdeeshwar (Shiva) temple and the Samadhi (resting place) of the great Maratha king Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.
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| Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj at Raigad, Maharashtra |
Spending a few moments at the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj is nothing short of a pilgrimage to one of India's great sons. It lies in front of Shree Jagadishwar temple- Shivaji used to visit this temple daily.
Raigad was designed and built by Hiroji Pharjand also known as Hiroji Indulkar. After viewing the fort, Maharaj was so pleased, he asked Hiroji "what do you want in return for this great work?". Hiroji replied, "I request my name be written on a small tile in such a way" "sevechya thayi tatpar Hiroji Pharjand" meaning "I am at your prompt service for my whole life". And let this tile be placed at the footstep of Shree Jagadishwar temple.
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Tribute tile to Hiroji Pharchand (Indulkar), the architect of Raigad fort
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जय भवानी जय शिवाजी
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