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A Journey across India: The call to Adventure

An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar...

Mahakumbh mela 13 Jan to 26 Feb 2025: gearing up for the world's largest event: PRAYAGRAJ & LUCKNOW tour

PRAYAGRAJ

Uttar Pradesh's Prayagraj is all set to host the 2025 Maha Kumbh Mela which will start on January 13 and end on February 26. The Mahakumbh mela is the largest gathering of Hindus worldwide, which occurs once after a gap of 12 years whereby devout Hindus come go to Prayagraj and take a dip in Holy Ganga. The last Mahakumb was held on 4 Feb 2013. Purna Kumbh पूर्ण महाकुंभ which completes circle of 12 mahakumbh that is 12×12 is celebrated once every 144 years. 

In simple terms 'kumbh' means 'kalash' or 'a pot' — referring to the kalash/ pot of nectar. The 12 year celebration cycle is meant to commemorate 1 complete revolution of the planet Brihaspati (Jupiter). The festival is celebrated at 4 riverside pilgrimage sites, namely; PRAYAGRAJ~ which stands at the confluence of the rivers Ganga-Yamuna-Saraswati, HARIDWAR~ On The Bank Of The Ganges, NASHIK~ river Godavari and UJJAIN~ river Shipra. The Kumbh mela has also been revived at a 5th place, namely; Bansberia Tribeni Sangam in WEST BENGAL~ at the confluence of Hooghly and Saraswati. Prayagraj is mentioned in ancient Hindu Vedic texts c. 1200–1000 BCE) as well as the Mahabharata c (400- 500 BCE and various other texts. Bathing in the rivers at Prayagraj as also the other 4 places is symbolic to the atonement, penance and restorative action for past mistakes. 

Visiting Mahakumbh Prayagraj and Lucknow 2025
Visiting Mahakumbh Prayagraj and Lucknow 2025

Prayagraj is well-connected by air, rail and road. If you're traveling here for the Kumbh mela, make sure:

• You have prior hotel reservations. 

• Do not walk around with heavy jewellery or loads of cash. Have a money belt or hidden pouch/ cash wallet to keep your money safe.

• Keep water handy. Review the hygiene level before eating at a restaurant. 

• Dress warm as winters are severe in U.P. 

• Download the Maha Kumbh mela 2025 app and follow the instructions accordingly.


LUCKNOW 

If you wish to skip the Mahakumbh mela and  head straight to Lucknow, there are many overnight trains that run between Delhi/ Varanasi to Lucknow. Lucknow is the official capital of Uttar Pradesh and it is well-connected by air/ rail/ road from most major cities in India.

Although the city's name is credited to Lakshmana, the brother of Rama (refer to the Hindu scriptures~ Ramayana), most monuments and places of interest in Lucknow bears witness to its Nawabi heritage from the 18th- 19th century. 

Early History 

From 1350 onwards, Lucknow and parts of the Awadh region were ruled by the Delhi Sultanate. Thereafter by the Sharqi Sultanate of Jaunpur. Emperor Humayun made it part of the Mughal empire around 1555. Emperor Jehangir granted an estate in Awadh to a favored nobleman named Sheikh Abdul Rahim. 

The Nawabs of Awadh

The Nawabs were mainly of Sayyid origin Iranian descent who established Lucknow as their capital. After the death of Aurangzeb, the Mughal empire began to spiral downwards. The semi-autonomous Nawabs of the Mughal empire were at war with other rulers. They joined Ahmed Shah Durani in The Battle of Panipat (1761). Awadh established complete autonomy from Mughal rule in 1818. 

Under their dominion music and dance flourished, and construction of many monuments took place. One or two days should suffice if you wish to Explore Lucknow. 

BARA IMAMBARA, RUMI DARWAZA, CHOTA IMAMBARA

Bara Imambara, monument in Lucknow

Asaf-ud-Daula was the Nawab of Awadh (Oudh) bearing allegiance to Mughal ruler Shah Alam II between 1775 to 1797. Shah Alam II was regent to the throne (r. 10 Oct 1760 to 31 July 1788) at the time when the Mughal empire was in its decline

In 1775 when Asaf-ud-Daula moved his capital from Faizabad to Lucknow, he built many monuments such as Bara Imambara or बड़ा इमामबाड़ा bada Imambara in Hindi, Asfi mosque situated within the Bara Imambara complex, and the elaborately carved Rumi Darwaza. Given the fact that the Nawabs of Oudh were of Iranian descent, the style of architecture and ornate carvings are typically Persian and reflects the Nawabi era's opulence and their contribution to arts, culture, and architecture, despite the political turmoils of the period.

Rumi Darwaza, Lucknow
Rumi Darwaza, Lucknow 

Asfi masjid, Lucknow

A major part of Muslims belong to the Shia sect. It is said that the purpose of building these monuments was to provide employment for people in the region during the period of a devastating famine (1780).

Of particular interest is the Bhool Bhulaiya (labyrinth) with passages interconnecting with each other through 489 identical doorways. 

Tip- Guides charge nominal fees. It's advisable to have a guide for a tour of the Bara Imambara and especially the Bhool Bhulaiya. 

Looking out~ a balcony of the Bhool Bhulaiya labyrinth, Bara Imambara LUCKNOW
Looking out~ a balcony of the Bhool Bhulaiya labyrinth, Bara Imambara LUCKNOW 

A few meters diagonally opposite the Rumi Darwaza is another beautiful gem; Chota Imambara.

Rumi Darwaza Lucknow
Rumi Darwaza Lucknow 

The Chota Imambara, built as an Imambara or congressional hall for Shia muslims took 54 years to complete. It was built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah in 1838. It was to serve as a mausoleum for himself and his mother, who is buried beside him. The exterior of the Palace of Lights is very beautifully decorated with Quranic verses in Islamic calligraphy. Also the chandeliers and other pieces of decor are worth mentioning.

You may spend the next day or two visiting other places of interest such as; the upscale Gomti nagar, Ambedkar memorial park, Husainabad clock tower and the market.

I bought 2 kgs of Gujia a sweet speciality of Lucknow. Gujias are made with a delectable filling of grated and roasted dry fruits, khoa, dried coconut and a hint of suji for some grainy texture. They have  a wide range and variations of filling from which you may select. 

My next destination is Nepal~ follow my journey as I board an overnight train to Gorakhpur, U.P. Gorakhpur is about 93 kms / 2:30 hours from Sonauli (Indian side) of the Indo-Nepal border 


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