A historical tour of AHMEDABAD [Amdavad]: top places to see

This blog can be translated in multiple languages. Please scroll down for Google translate tool. 

Ahmedabad [Amdavad] is an important city of Gujarat that lies on the banks of the river Sabarmati. Like Mumbai, this place too holds some bitter sweet memories of the past since I had spent a formative year of my life as a child here.

AMDAvAD blog

Previous blog post- Top things to do in Vadodara 

Getting to Ahmedabad ~

Ahmedabad has several railway stations namely Kalupur Station, Gandhigram Station, Sarkhej Station, Vastrapur Station, Maninagar Station and Sabarmati Station.

Sabarmati station will come first if you are arriving from North& North-west ie. Rajkot, Mehsana, Delhi, Jaipur. Maninagar will come first if you are arriving from South ie. Mumbai, Nasik etc. 

Get down at KALUPUR STATION which is at the heart of Old Ahmedabad's historical route. Later from here you can commute to the more developed newer district of the city. 

History of Ahmedabad [Amdavad]

It is hard to ignore the signs of history when you're here; the darwazas (old city gates), pols (old residential quarters), temples and other monuments~ all have a story to tell. Hence knowing its history makes a city tour even more worthwhile. Here are a list of places/ monuments that trace the city from a historical perspective.

SOLANKI DYNASTY (r. 940-1244 CE)- The pride of Gujarat 

The story of Amdavad is associated with Karna (r. 1064- 1092 CE) a king of the Solanki* dynasty. At the time Ashapalli belonged to a BHIL* chieftain named Asha Bhil. After a series of military campaigns against the Bhil king, Karna's efforts bore fruit in 1094 CE. So to commemorate the victory he established a new city in place of ASHAPALLI and renamed it KARNAVATI. 

*The Solankis- are a clan of Rajputs native to Gujarat- Rajasthan region. Their capital city was Anahilavada ie. present-day PATAN.

*Bhil- one of India's largest ethnic tribal groups, also called Adivasi. They are predominantly found in western and central Indian states of Gujarat, M.P., Rajasthan, Chattisgarh and Maharashtra. 

1) Temples of Kochharba Devi, Jayanti Devi, Karneshwar Mahadev 

King Karna is said to have built these temples during the period of his reign. However none survive as of date. It's possible that Kochharba village near Paldi (within Ahmedabad city limits) could be derived from Kochharba Devi temple, although one cannot be certain. 

Although innumerable temples and monuments of Solankis period exist elsewhere in Gujarat and Rajasthan (MALWA region), there is no mention of KARNAVATI until the end of the SOLANKI DYNASTY (1244 CE) or even until the last [Hindu] VAGHELA DYNASTY (r. 1244-1304 CE) thereafter.

So then where was ASHAPALLI / KARNAVATI located?

It is argued that Ashapalli/ Karnavati was situated on Sabarmati river bank near Calico Mill when one exits from Jamalpur Darwaza-gate of Ahmedabad. However upon looking closely, no traces of KARNAVATI can be seen around. A Gujarati historian named Ratnamanirao Bhimrao in his book 'Gujarat nu Pantnagar' (1929 AD) states; KARNAVATI's temples and houses were reduced to rubble by Ahmed Shah Badshah, the Muslim ruler of Gujarat during 1411 CE. He then established his own new city AHMEDABAD on this heap of ruins. The rubble was then used as building material for the mosques, houses and city walls. So watch closely the pillars, columns and lattice windows of mosques built during the time of Ahmad Shah-I and you will see the intricate carvings Hindu and Jain style features. 

2) Adalaj ni Vav 

For a glimpse into the glorious period of Hindu Solanki rulers do visit the Adalaj stepwells about 20 kms from the city center. The significance of storing rain-water in the semi-arid region of Gujarat prompted the Hindu king Rana Veer Singh to build a vav (stepwell). However, before it was completed Rana was killed in a battle with the neighbouring Muslim Sultan Mahmud BEGADA. Wherefore BEGADA now cast his eyes on the slain king's beautiful widow Rani Rudabai. She promised to marry him on the condition that the Vav be completed, so BEGADA set forth to do so in record time. However the higher levels completed later were built in Indo-Islamic style of architecture. When the vav was completed, the proud queen circumambulated the well saying prayers and then jumped into it ending her life.  

Adalaj ni Vav, Ahmedabad 

Built of sandstone in typical Solanki architectural style, the structure is octagonal in shape and 5 stories deep with steps leading to the bottom. There are vents for air and light. The beautiful intricate carvings on the walls and pillars are indeed a treat for the eyes.

Beautiful wall carvings of Adalaj stepwells, Ahmedabad 

3) Kaanch ki masjid 

This mosque was erected in 1503 CE, ie. even before the DELHI or GUJARAT SULTANATE arrived here, and 20 years after Mahmud of Ghazni attacked Somnath temple. Hence it's most likely that Islamic doctrine would have trickled down by Arab traders who landed in Khambhat and later travelled inwards to Amdavad.

Kanch ki masjid exits since 1503 CE ie. even before Delhi Sultanate came here. The structure has gone through innumerable renovations in recent years 

 

DELHI SULTANATE (1206 to 1526 CE)

King Karna deva-II was the last hindu king of Gujarat. It was during his reign that the region faced two invasions (1299 & 1304 CE) from the DELHI SULTANATE under Sultan Ala ud-din Khalji.  The second invasion of 1304 CE brought GUJARAT under the control of DELHI SULTANATE. 

GUJARAT SULTANATE (r. 1391 to 1583 CE)

AHMED SHAH BADSHAH: The founder of AHMEDABAD

AHMAD SHAH I (r. 1411- 1442 CE) was the grand-son of MUZAFFAR SHAH-I  the founder of Gujarat Sultanate. All through the SOLANKIS, DELHI SULTANATE and Muzaffar SHAH-I's reign, the capital city of Gujarat had been Anhilwada ie. present-day PATAN. 

Suggested read- Gujarat Sultanate: muslim invasions Part 3  

4) BHADRA FORT AREA  

Manek Burj is a bastion of the Bhadra fort. This is where the foundation stone of the city was laid on 26/ Feb 1411. It is said that a Hindu saint named Maneknath inspired the Sultan to build the new city here. Ahmad Shah-I subsequently made it his capital city on 4/ March 1411.

Manek Burj, Ahmedabad- where the foundation stone of the city was laid on 26/ Feb 1411

The fort was built as a means to fortify the city and is named after goddess Bhadrakali whose temple is situated right at the entrance. The temple was built during the Maratha's rule 

Also within the fort complex is Ahmad Shah mosque (Juni Jami masjid / Shahi masjid). It was erected in 1414 (17/ Dec) to serve as a private mosque for the royal household. This was the first mosque built by Ahmad Shah-I using stones from the ruined temples of KARNAVATI. 

Tip- as of writing this blog i.e. Oct 22, Bhadra fort is undergoing renovations and entry is restricted. 

To the eastern side of the fort is Teen Darwaza, a historical gateway erected in 1415 CE. It is here that foreign dignitaries used to assemble before approaching the royal palace. Presently this narrow street is a congested marketplace with hawkers and shoppers everyday of the week, so walk cautiously. 

The congested Bhadra plaza shopping area, Old city Ahmedabad 

Down the road to your right is Jama masjid- a mosque for the general public, built in 1424 (4/ Jan) CE by Ahmad Shah-I. It is grand-looking and large with 3 different gateways. 

This yellow sandstone mosque is built in typical Indo-Islamic Gujarati style of architecture.

Arabic Calligraphy on the exterior walls of Jami masjid, Ahmedabad 

Ahmad Shah-I died in 1442 at the age of 53. His mausoleum Badshah no haziro lies near the Jami masjid. His queens also lie here in Rani no haziro. His son Muhammad Shah-II's tomb is to the left and Qutb ud-din Ahmad Shah-II, his grandson is to the right.

A few hundred meters ahead is Manek chowk- a night street-food lane (open 8pm till midnight). 

5) KANKARIA LAKE 

Ahmad Shah-I  was succeeded by  his son Muhammad Shah-II (r. 1442- 1451 CE), who in turn was succeeded by his son and heir apparent Ahmad Shah-II (1451- 1458 CE). Ahmad Shah-II during his reign won a battle against the advancing MALWA Sultanate forces and defeated them. To commemorate the victory he built KANKARIA Lake in 1451. There is an inscription mentioning his name 'Hauj-ē-Qutb ie pond of Qutb. Since then it has been the favorite leisure getaway for the rulers of Gujarat and their royal guests. Around 1600s the Dutch and other Europeans were trading with India and so you will find Dutch and Armenian tombs similar to Surat. 

Free entry for joggers from 4am to 8am. Mon closed. Other days open for the general public from 8am- 10pm. Laser show and musical fountains evening time.

Suggested read- Tracing British history in India- PART 1 

Qutb ud-din Ahmad Shah-II also built a mosque SULTAN KUTBUDDIN MASJID or QUTB SHAH'S MOSQUE. It is near Delhi Darwaza. 

Minaret of Sultan Qutbuddin masjid, Ahmedabad

plaque of Qutbuddin masjid Ahmedabad 

 

6) SARKHEJ ROZA

After Qutb ud-din Ahmad Shah-II's untimely death due to a sword wound, his half-brother Mahmud BEGADA became the next ruler. The self-styled name BEGADA is owing to his victory over the hill forts of Junagadh (Girnar) and Pavagadh. The rulers of Gujarat Sultanate held high reverence for a Sufi saint named Shaikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj Baksh who lived a simple life at Sarkhej which was then a village. The sufi's tomb is enshrined here, and opposite it is the tomb Mahmud BEGADA. Also on either side of the Sultan are the tombs of his son Sultan Muzaffar Shah II and his great grandson Mehmud Shah III.

Tomb of Mahmud BEGADA (middle) his son Sultan Muzaffar Shah II and his great grandson Mehmud Shah III at Sarkhej Roza, Ahmedabad

7) Rani Sipri mosque and tomb

After Mahmud BEGADA'S death on 23 Nov 1511, his son and heir apparent Muzaffar Shah II ascended the throne. Rani Sipri was BEGADA's widow. She was a Hindu and had commissioned the mosque to be built in 1514 which got completed during the reign of Muzaffar Shah II. The jaali work and intricate carvings on the minarets are in typical Gujarati style of architecture. The queen was buried here after her death. 

Mosque and tomb of Rani Sipri, Ahmedabad 

8) RANI RUPMATI'S MOSQUE

A mosque commissioned by/ in the name of yet another queen. Rani Rupmati or Rupmanjhri was the hindu princess of Dhar who became the wife of Qutb ud-din Ahmad Shah-II. And when Qutb ud-din died, his half-brother Mahmud BEGADA married her. The craftsmanship is elaborate and intricate, similar as other mosques in Gujarat. 

Minaret of Rani Rupmati mosque, Ahmedabad

9) SIDI SAYYID  MOSQUE, Lal darwaja  

It is located opp. Electric house,  Gheekanta, better known as Lal darwaja (area) and nearby Bhadra fort. The mosque is small but beautiful, and its central jhali [lattice carved window] is the iconic symbol for Ahmedabad. It was built by a Habshi (African origin) noble named Sidi Sayyid in 1572 ie. towards the end of the Gujarat Sultanate. He died in 1576 and is said to be buried near the mosque. 

jhali [lattice window] of Sidi Sayyid mosque, Ahmedabad

The road from Lal darwaja to Kalupur railway station is a crowded market area. Stop by Swaminarayan temple enroute for a sublime devotional experience. 

At a corner near KALUPUR STATION you will notice the Shaking Minarets or Jhulta minar. This is an interesting work~ a gentle nudge to one Minaret will cause the other to vibrate after some seconds despite being unconnected. 

 

The Gujarat Sultanate was crushed by the Mughals. The British came later. However, I have not heard of any monuments or legacy left by them. 

10) The pols of Ahmedabad 

The pols are gated residential quarters and typically cater to specific communities. A Jain 'pol' is a cluster with Jain households, Hindu 'pol' with Hindu households and so on. The 'pol' living concept is is about 600 years old and found mainly in the old Ahmedabad city. There is a morning heritage walk conducted by AMC (Ahmedabad municipal corporation) which begins from Swaminarayan temple at 7 am. Call +91 98251 25920 which will cover some of the pols of Ahmedabad. 

Swaminarayan mandir, Ahmedabad old city 

11) Huteesingh Jain temple 

A highly recommended place on your visit to Ahmedabad is the Huteesingh Jain temple. It was commissioned by Seth Huteesingh Kesarising a wealthy merchant and got built in 1848. 

Huteesingh Jain temple, Ahmedabad wears an evening glow

I was here for an evening darshan and was simply mesmerized by the sublime beauty and peace this place has to offer. The intricate Jain style carvings and the temple's inner enclosure gives the impression of a palace.

Tip- photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple and head covering is preferred.

Suggested read- Understanding Jainism 

12) india's  independence struggle  (1857 to 1947) 

With the aim of bringing an end to British rule, the struggle for India's Independence has been a painful journey from 1857 to 1947. There are two great places to experience this reminder of India's independence movement. 

A) Sabarmati ashram, Sabarmati Ahmedabad 

Located on the banks of river Sabarmati, this ashram is a treasure house of Mahatma Gandhi's moments which he spent here, when he wasn't living in Sevagram, traveling or serving time in jail. Open all days, except Thurs.

B) Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel memorial, Shahibaug

This museum is richly preserved with moments of India's first home minister Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel and his invaluable efforts in bringing together the princely states to integrate the nation. Open all days except Monday. 9 am to 6 pm 

13) VINTAGE CARS MUSEUM 

Vintage car museum in Ahmedabad was founded in 1927 by Pranlal Bhogilal Patel, a mill owner. This place has a collection of 100+ rare cars and is an absolute must for vintage car lovers. Most of the cars were in use by royals of the time before making it into Panlallji's collection. It's a delight to see how well they maintained. The place is also well-kept and has 2 restaurants plus a recreation spot for kids.

Getting here~ From old city Ahmedabad take a BRTS bus to Naroda gam, and then auto to Auto world vintage car museum.

Address~ Dastan Estate, Service Rd, Nikol, Kathwada ph# 098253 03569

Open 10 am to 9 pm closed on Mondays. Entry fee 100rs + mobile camera use 100rs  

Vintage cars museum, Ahmedabad 

Hope you enjoyed reading this blog post. Do feel free to comment and share with those who might like to read it. Follow my journey...

Next blog post- Top 3 things to do in Bhavnagar