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A Journey across India: The call to Adventure

An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar

VELANKANNI to Point CALIMERE (Kodiakkarai) road trip - a land right across Point Pedro in Srilanka

Everyday 1000s of pilgrims from every religion and walk of life pour into VELANKANNI to offer prayers and seek favors from Mother Mary. And after doing so, they bid farewell until the next year. Very few adventurous souls venture further south till Point CALIMERE (Kodiakkarai) - a land jutting out into the sea right across Point Pedro in Srilanka.

 

VELANKANNI to Point CALIMERE (Kodiakkarai) - a land jutting out into sea right across Point Pedro in Srilanka
VELANKANNI to Point CALIMERE (Kodiakkarai) - a land jutting out into sea right across Point Pedro in Srilanka

Fishing boats on the coast of Kodiakkarai (POINT CALIMERE)
Fishing boats on the coast of Kodiakkarai (POINT CALIMERE)


How to reach Point CALIMERE from VELANKANNI :

Kodiakkarai or Point CALIMERE is located at the country's southern border and is only 28 nautical miles from the coast of Sri Lanka.

From VELANKANNI drive 37 kms South towards VEDARANYAM. And from there another 10- 11 kms South to Kodiakkarai (POINT CALIMERE).


Tip- In case you plan on using public transport, this will certainly be a slow journey and you need to muster patience as bus frequency is not that great. So try to get an early start.


By Public transport:- 

Board a ST bus to VEDARANYAM. The bus stand is on the road at VELANKANNI [Not the main bus depot]. At Vedaranyam again, you need to get on another bus going to Kodikkarai. This  is one of the last bus stands of the country's southern border.


Tip- It is advisable to carry any mineral water, snacks etc at VELANKANNI or NAGAPATTINAM. In case you haven't then do so at Vedaranyam.


Much of that later.... but first ~

 

If you haven't then please check out my previous blog~ Tranquebar: the old Dutch town along coastal Tamil Nadu 


Enroute stops : KARAIKAL, THIRUNALLAR 

Starting from Tranquebar we decided to make an initial stopover for breakfast 13 kms south at a place called KARAIKAL.

As part of the U.T. of Pondicherry,  KARAIKAL bears some French colonial influence like the beautiful church of Our Lady of Angels. Built in the Neo-Gothic style of architecture (in 1822) the church looks stunning with its dome-shaped towers reaching out to the sky. I stayed a while and prayed 🙏 to God for  all the good things so far and a safe and pleasant journey ahead.

 

Church of Our Lady of Angels at KARAIKAL
Church of Our Lady of Angels at KARAIKAL

The other advantage for stopping at Karaikal is cheap booze; so I thought it a good idea to pick a bottle of good wine, snacks and mineral water for the journey ahead. But before doing so, we took a detour to visit the Sani temple at THIRUNALLAR.


THIRUNALLAR Saneeshwar temple

As the name suggests this temple is a Navagraha sthala dedicated to Sani I.E. planet Saturn. We were lucky to arrive just in time for the aarti to Saniswara bhagvan. 

The temple is no doubt large with a separate shrine for the main deities namely; Shiva - Parvati. There is an equally large temple tank across the street for the holy dip to rid any malefic effects in one's life.

 

The cute temple elephant at Thirunallar
The cute temple elephant at Thirunallar


Note~ So far we have covered 3 Navagraha sthalas  (1) THIRUVENKADU temple dedicated to Budha - IE planet MERCURY (2) Thirunageswaram Naganathar temple, for Rahu (North Lunar Node) at Kumbakonam and (3) NAGANATHASWAMY temple, for Ketu (South Lunar Node) also from Kumbakonam


There was such a positive vibe at the temple; the outer area is lit up with diyas offered by devotees. As a good backup plan, I prayed this time to Sani bhagvan to rid me of any obstacles along the way, And make my journey all across India a truly safe and pleasant one. So let's see how that goes....



SALT, SALT as far as the eye can see 

The road from VELANKANNI to VEDARANYAM is smooth and pleasant... and as you drive further, the landscape changes dramatically with salt pans all through the drive.

Acres of salt pans along the drive from VEDARANYAM to KODIYAKARAI, Tamilnadu
Acres of salt pans along the drive from VEDARANYAM to KODIYAKARAI, Tamilnadu 


VEDARANYAM to KODIYAKARAI is a major salt production hub in India, the same as Gujarat on India's west coast. It was here that C Rajagopalachari, who was inspired by the Dandi March, took out The VEDARANYAM Salt Satyagraha in 1930 to draw attention to the struggle for India's Independence from British rule.


These salt pans spanning 1000's of acres provide a daily source of livelihood to a large number of locals who earn from 300 to 600 rs daily wages.



Where to stay in Point Calimere 

The only stay option that I know of is :

V.M. Thandapani Tourist bungalow- 
3/ 19-3 Sethu Salai, Main Rd, Kodikkarai (POINT CALIMERE), NAGAPATTINAM
pH: 04369 272299 
Customer care: 9940291199 /9566013299  Website link

VMT hotel is a reasonably clean and comfortable place to stay. Min tariff 700/- per night. They also provide simple meals at an extra cost.

Tip~ Do carry your Id proof, since this place is located close to the Sri Lankan coast.


Things to do at KODIKKARAI (POINT CALIMERE WLS) 


KODIKKARAI is a sparsely-populated village and one can't help but notice the slow pace of life here. The natural beauty and tranquility that the place has to offer calms the body, mind and soul. Point Calimere is Tamil Nadu 's Ramsar wetlands, and thus important from an ecological point of view.

The ethereal looking landscape of Kodikarai (Point Calimere), Tamilnadu
The ethereal looking landscape of Kodikarai (Point Calimere), Tamilnadu 


1) Wildlife and birds in the forest

 
There is plenty of wildlife on display- wild boars, wild horses, foxes, and a variety of birds. During peak summer months the forest authorities refill water troughs at specific areas. So get assistance from the hotel staff regarding the good spots to watch wildlife. 

Evenings are the best time when the animals venture out in the open. Watch foxes as they walk around 2 by 2. 

wild ponies at Point Calimere (KODIKKARAI), T.N.
wild ponies at Point Calimere (KODIKKARAI), T.N.


Tip~ This is a wildlife area so maintain the required speed limit. 


2) Spiritual connect

 
KODIKKARAI natural beauty is mentioned in the Ramayana. There is a tiny temple here with Sri Rama 's footprints. There is also a Vinayagar temple here.


3) Historical connect

 
During the Chola period ( 970 A.D.) when maritime trade was carried out between them and Srilanka, a lighthouse was built to help ships navigate safely. The dilapidated lighthouse is still seen on the coast.



4) Lighthouse 

 
The lighthouse at Point Calimere (KODIKKARAI), Tamil Nadu
The lighthouse at Point Calimere (KODIKKARAI), Tamil Nadu


Go past the helipad and you will spot the lighthouse on the coast. Climb to the top of the new lighthouse for a glorious view of the surrounding sea. It is said to hold the record of being the tallest lighthouse in India  A small BSF outpost is stationed at this place. 

Point calimere (kodiyakarai) is just 28 nautical miles to Srilanka
Point calimere (kodiyakarai) is just 28 nautical miles to Srilanka 


5) Pink flamingos

 
Pink flamingoes at Point Calimere [KODIKKARAI] T.N.
Pink flamingos at Point Calimere [KODIKKARAI] T.N.


Nov to Feb- is the best time for viewing pink flamingos and other migratory birds. I was lucky to see flocks of pink flamingoes even during summer.


6) Dolphins watch


Between Jan to April, is a good time to spot dolphins. There are also turtles that come to the shores.


5) Black buck sanctuary

There is an exclusive black buck sanctuary. The area is quite vast with herds of black buck. It will take a great deal of legwork if you want to get photos of these nimble creatures.


It was late evening after a long day. The hotel staff recommended I should check out the rooftop.... And I did. 

The rooftop at VMT tourist lodge, Point Calimere, T.N.
The rooftop at VMT tourist lodge, Point Calimere - nothing but a wide expanse of desolate beauty surrounding this place 

WoW! What an experience - I requested some tea and snacks while I sat there taking in the vast view of this desolate wilderness. 

Later, I requested them to send my bedding on the rooftop instead- for a night under the stars.


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