At the center of Southern India lies the mountain ranges that span the three states of Tamilnadu, Kerala and Karnataka, a refuge from the sweltering coastal plains.
Anaimalai Hills falls along the Western ghats, within the state of Tamilnadu and Kerala and is home to a wide range of exotic endemic wildlife- tigers, elephants, panthers and exotic birds amongst others.
March to May is the best time for spotting wildlife.
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| Nilgiri tahr spotted while driving from Annamalai to Valparai, Tamil nadu |
Getting here : The nearest major town is Pollachi which is easily accessible from most cities in South India. The closest airport is Coimbatore.
How I got from Palani to Annamalai
It was an easy and comfortable bus journey from the temple town of Palani to Pollachi, and the next 15 km from Pollachi to Annamalai. Annamalai is the base village for heading onward to Top Slip and Perambikulam wildlife sanctuary. Total bus fare : 100 rs
Where to stay at Annamalai
Annamalai is certainly not a tourist-friendly place. There are few guest houses and I stayed at the only one listed then~ Royal Cottages. The rooms are charming, has WiFi and adequately comfortable.
Stay : 1200 rs/night/ single person
The Forest guest house at Top Slip is the best place to stay~ location-wise. Bookings need to be done at their office at Pollachi (Wildlife Warden Office, 178 Meenkarai Road, Pollachi en route to Anamalai). I had absolutely no luck, and btw it's also an expensive proposition.
How I explored Annamalai tiger reserve
Most people stay here for 2/ 3 days. The folks at Royal guesthouse had contacts who conducted forest jeep tours, and forest guides at Top Slip who took you on treks.
Day 2 >
Pathetic Top Slip reception center staff
Day 1 was a terrible waste of time. I boarded an early morning bus to Top Slip as I was considering the cheaper canter safari from the reception center here. There were 2 other families making a total of 10 pax on a weekend. We waited and waited...
It was almost 10 am now, and the reception center staff were unflinching and immobile. After poking and prodding these good-for-nothings, we were finally told 'the numbers of pax was not good enough for conducting a safari today'.
On my return, I stopped by at a nearby mini-market for some snacks, cold drinks and other basic stuff before spending the rest of my day watching T.V. in my room.
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| my guest house at Annamalai, Tamilnadu |
Day 3 >
Private jeep tour : Parambikulam Forest reserve
Well the jeep wasn't available that day, but the tour guide got his personal car and it was definitely worth it. The tour lasted the whole day and cost ~well, I wish I could split if I had company.
Tour cost : 2800 rs - Top slip, Perambikulam & another day drive till Aliyar dam on Valparai road
As we crossed the villages on the forest outskirts, I was absolutely mesmerized by the greenery and foliage on both sides of the road. Peacocks were in abundance and gay abandon, much like fowl that we see everyday. Boars were in abundance as well.
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| peacock during the drive to Top Slip |
From the corner of my eye I saw my guide tipping a few guys along the way (for reasons he knows best). We then stopped at a small forest eatery for breakfast at Parambikulam before heading into the jeep trail. The Parambikulam tiger reserve (Kerala side) reception is better organized and professional.
A paradise for bird lovers~ I had never seen so many different birds in my life. Their sounds filled the air. My guide threw names, which I'm sure would make more sense to a birding enthusiast. We had no such luck spotting animals, especially since some trails were closed due to landslides.
Tip : There are only 2 restaurants in the forest, one opposite Top Slip reception center, and the other at Perumbikulam reception. So carry the food/ snacks and water you need, and don't forget to carry the trash with you.
Day 4 >
Most scenic drive from Annamalai to Valparai
Whether you board the inexpensive state-run bus, ride your bike, drive your car or hitchhike; The 60 kms (2 hour) Annamalai to Valparai stretch is one of the most scenic and nail-biting road trip that you will ever witness.
The initial stretch was definitely scary as our bus drove the steep narrow road with several hair-pin bends. I could see another state-run bus toppled below and made a short prayer.
If you're driving by your own car/ bike, drive safe and slow (during the day) taking breaks at viewpoints until Aliyar dam view point. I was rewarded with glimpses of waterfalls, saw elephants walking in the valley below and an abundance of Nilgiri tahr along this stretch.
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| Nilgiri tahr seen during the drive from Annamalai to Valparai, Tamil nadu |
'The journey is better than the destination' is the quote that comes to mind in times like this. As I approached Valparai, coffee and tea plantations took over, and few quaint villages on either side could be seen for miles. Streams flowing, butterflies fluttering and the occasional lion-tailed macaque could also be seen.
I felt an absolute sense of accomplishment on reaching Valparai after having done this road trip.
Tip : Avoid Night driving as there are many hair-pin bends.
Most adventurous folks coming to Valparai love camping on the slopes. There are classy hotels too at vantage locations. I managed to find a reasonably inexpensive nice lodge which had snug thick blankets and a comfy bed with hot shower, and a T.V.~ which is all that matters in a climate like that.
Stay : 550 rs/night/ single person
That's all for now! I hope you enjoyed this blog. Do Subscribe. Bye !
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