An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar
Soma- Moon and nath-God; Somnath is the first among the 12 revered Jyotirlingas ie. Shrines of Shiva. It is here that MAHADEVA SHIVA manifested himself as a column of light. Krishna bhagwan who also worshipped the Shiv linga here was forewarned that he would meet the end of his earthly journey at Dwarka. And right enough a hunter's arrow accidentally struck his heel while he was resting at BALIKA TIRTH, Somnath.
The temple of Somnath in Gujarat is the 1st among the 12 jyotiringa temples
Darshan ~ 6 am to 10 pm
Aarti timings ~ 7 am, 12 noon and 7 pm
Only wallets are allowed inside the temple, heavy baggage will need to be deposited at the luggage counter. Same with leather items- clothing/ belts/ bags etc.
All electronics such as mobiles, tabs, laptops, even car keys must be deposited before entering the temple.
Getting here-
If you plan on using public transport, there is a good road network with S.T. as well as private buses plying on the Somnath-Junagadh-Dwarka route. The easiest and convenient way to travel for a long journey is by train. Nearest railway station to Somnath is VERAVAL JN.
The indomitable spirit of Somnath
Somnath was plundered multiple times by Muhammad of Ghazni in 1026 CE. This itself goes to show how fabulously wealthy this temple might have been. It has been recorded that the shivling was made of polished stone and adorned with a bejewelled chain of solid gold. Its wooden pillars were inlaid in wrought silver with jewels and golden chandeliers kept the fire burning night and day. As the story goes, it took the despot Ghaznavid Sultan 18 days to secure all the temple's wealth on camels before leaving for GHAZNI. Other invaders of the Delhi Sultanate such as Allauddin KHILJI and Mohammad bin Tughlaq also followed suit. It was last destroyed by the Portuguese in 1537. But each time it was raided and razed to the ground, it sprung like a Phoenix from the ashes and all credit goes to those great visionary kings and rulers who spared no effort in doing so. Rani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore last rebuilt the temple in 1788.
The temple's interior already has 130 kgs of gold plates. After golden pillars, the ambitious task of gold plating 1,450 Kalash or stone spires atop Somnath temple is undertaken by the trust
Actual worship is now conducted at the new Somnath temple. The initiative of building the new temple of Somnath (1951) goes to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, India's first Home Minister.
Basic info-
Somnath can easily be done in a day. However after a long tiring journey I longed to stay overnight. There are several Dharmashalas, but it's advisable to do the booking online in order to avoid inconvenience.
All these dharamshalas at Somnath now indulge in corrupt behavior and malpractices. Despite having 100s of dormitory beds, I was refused one on the pretext that I need to pay for the complete dormitory room of 4 beds (normal cost is 90rs/ dorm bed). When I left for a while and returned 10 mins later, I was informed that the complete 4 floors of the Atithigruh Temple Trust building were fully booked😨... Incase you face this problem then;
Contine the onward drive to Junagadh and further to Bhavnath ie. the village at the foothills of the Girnar mountains. There are some dharamshalas here.
Day 2- GIRNAR: the arduous uphill climb
Mount GIRNAR is an important pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Jains. It is shakti sthal (place of worship) and every fortnightly full moon 1000s of Hindu pilgrims undertake the arduous 10000 steps climb in order to pay obeisance to Upleta matri mata ie. Parvati mata. For those who prefer the easy way out there is a ropeway that will save you time and effort~ 600rs approx for a return ticket.
The shrine of Upleta matri mata looms in the background at the peak of Mount GIRNAR, Saurashtra GUJARAT
Getting here~
The nearest railway and bus station is Junagadh. There are regular train and bus services from Ahmedabad to Junagadh.
Tip- Girnar is a day's work if you use the ropeway. However if you plan on climbing uphill, it's strenuous and time-consuming. Most pilgrims prefer to climb throughout the night and reach the hill at the break of dawn; in which case one may need a day of rest. There are dharamshalas at the foothills that provide basic stay. There are also various of food options available at the dhabas.
The ancient mountain of Girnar is seeped in history that goes way back to 250 BCE ie. during the time of Emperor Ashoka. The rock inscriptions in Junagadh indicate the presence of many other ancient dynasties, but the most heart-wrenching episode in Girnar's history is towards the Medieval age....
Signs of faith~ bangles and red cloth for mata, along the uphill climb at Girnar
The Siege on Girnar 1472-73 CE
During the reign of Mahmud Shah I BEGADA, also known as MAHMUD BEGADA (r. 1458- 1511 CE), SAURASHTRA at the time was under control of the CHUDASAMA Rajput king Ra Mandalika III and Junagadh was the capital. Mahmud Shah I had subjugated the CHUDASAMA king twice earlier and compelled him to suzerainty. But Ra Mandalika III continued to conduct himself as a sovereign which enraged the Gujarat Sultan. In 1472 Ra Mandalika III was ordered to convert to ISLAM*. The king finally realised the shocking truth of an Islamic mindset and escaped by night to the hills of Girnar (1472-73 CE). A two year siege of Junagadh fort followed after which Ra Mandalika III's stores were empty and he was finally forced to surrender and accept Mahmud Shah I's conditions and was forced to accept Islam to save his life. Thereafter it is said he moved to Ahmedabad with the Sultan and lies buried at Manek chowk. Saurashtra and Junagadh thus came under the folds of Gujarat Sultanate.
*ISLAMIC MINDSET
There are some historians who project Muslim rulers in a manner that they were simply ambitious kings longing to expand their territories as their Hindu counterparts. But the truth is. Muslim rulers invaded India with a single-minded focus and primarily strived towards the advancement of ISLAM in a bid to claim a place in the Islamic paradise. Their reign is recorded with sufficient proof ~
Desecration of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist places of worship and plunder of temples wealth.
Conversion of Hindus into Islam.
Streamlining new converts of Islam, for fear of them slipping into the religion of their ancestors was another concern for the autocratic muslim rulers.
Lastly jiziya was exacted from Hindu principalities who did not convert to Islam
Day 3- Porbandar
It's advisable to take a day's break at Porbandar. Doing so will give you the much needed rest before moving on to DWARKA the next day. It is also gives you an opportunity to visit Sudama temple and birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi,
Sudama temple, Porbandar
Day 4- DWARKA
Dwar- door and ka- Brahma; DWARKA is the gateway to Mokshã and one among the 7 revered Hindu tirthas that helps liberate the soul from pain, traumas and the unending cycle of life and death. These 7 mokshadayikas (places of liberation) are :
After killing his evil uncle Kamsa, Shri Krishna left Magadha and chose Dwarka as his home and during this period, Krishna performed many great deeds~ he rescued Draupadi from the clutches of the Kauravas princes thereby protecting her dignity and honor, he vanquished the evil Nakasura and finally led the war of Kurukshetra that is mentioned in the Mahabharata.
Dwarkadheesh temple, Dwarka GUJARAT
💡 Archaeological excavations give sufficient proof that Dwarka is one of 24 ancient cities in India.
What to see in DWARKA
1) Dwarkadheesh ~ the door to Mokshã
A visit to Dwarkadheesh is considered auspicious to a pilgrim's spiritual journey. This ancient temple built in typical Chalukya style of architecture is also known by the name of Trilokasundara ie. A thing of beauty across the 3 world. The captivating black idol of Sri Krishna held my gaze for a while before the crowd nudged me to move on.
Tip- all electronic and heavy luggage need to be deposited at the luggage counter before entering the temple.
Darshan timings~ 7 am to 12.30 closed during afternoon hours and reopens 5 to 9.30 pm.
chhakada~ a hybrid version of bike + small tempo is a commonly used for commute in Saurashtra
2) Shri Nageswar Mahadev temple
The temple of Shri Nageswar Mahadev is situated in a serene location about 18 kms from Dwarka. In order to reach Nageshwar, there are temple trust buses at specific timings from outside Lemon tree hotel that take pilgrims on a tour of all sites in Dwarka which also includes Nageshwar. Incase you miss the bus, there are chhagadas (a bike+ tempo hybrid vehicles) that ply from here to Nageshwar for 30rs/ pax.
Nageswar Mahadev~ 10th among the 12 jyothirlingas, 18 kms from Dwarka
The temple itself seems recently renovated in modern practical style, but it's the mesmerising Nageshwar jyotirlinga encased in silver covering that stays in the heart.
Tip- allow an extra day if you wish to visit Beyt Dwarka and all other temples.
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