2 days in Daman: good food, wine and history tour of pure indulgences

Where the hell do I chill this weekend with friends? 

When a question of this nature pops up in a sane Gujju bhai's mind, the answer to that is quite simple 'it's either Diu or Daman!'. Daman is like an oasis in the dry state of Gujarat !

Both Daman & Diu are located snug within Gujarat, but geographically apart and were once part of Éstado Português da India ie. The Portuguese State of India. Since being liberated in 1961  Daman & Diu have  been designated as U.T. (union territory) with certain privileges, one such being tax-free booze. 

Previous blog post- Kaas pathar: the plateau of flowers & Bhambavli falls

Don't make this mistake while  travelling from Mumbai to Vapi 

The best way to reach Daman is by train. The closest railway station is Vapi. There are multiple trains that run between Mumbai and the industrial town of Gujarat's Vapi. But beware of one thing~ book the best seat/ berth. Anything that is SL (sleeper class) and above is good enough.

The reason; Mumbai -> Vapi -> Surat -> Ahmedabad is along the industrial/ commercial belt and therefore extremely busy. What's worse; it's disorganised. Hence travelling by 'General compartment or even SS confirmed seat in general compartment is a traumatic experience. The crowd usually starts piling in from Bhoinsar and steadily goes on until Ahmedabad. As some Pune-Vapi trains run via Mumbai, I had a seriously tough time alighting at my destination.

A bottle of tippy to quench my thirst 

Driving down from Vapi to Daman; the sight of huge signs of homegrown Jupiter gin and Royal distilleries as also those of Kobra & Kingfisher beer had me salivating already. Even before my share auto reached Daman, I knew clearly  what I needed to do for a smooth check-in. After picking a few of my favourites, I checked into my hotel; an old-world charm parsi establishment.

'On second thoughts', I wondered, 'why not dine out instead?!' Most standard hotels have an in-house restaurant, and I found one with a great but affordable selection a là carte menu. 

Chilled red wine with squids at Daman

Where to stay in Daman? 

Daman is quite crowded with tourists from mostly Mumbai, Surat, Vadodara and Ahmedabad during the weekends. If you have the privilege of a 2 weekday break, there are far better chances of finding a suitable hotel without even booking in advance. There are many good hotels in the range of 1000 rs and upwards.

Daman's Parsi connect 

Like a few places situated along the coast of Gujarat, Daman too has a strong Parsi connection. The Parsis certainly have a fine sense of taste; their homes are spacious and laid with polished teakwood flooring, an excellent layout plan complemented with art deco pieces of furniture and old b&w photos reminiscent of the good 'ol days. Many of these parsi homes are now converted into guesthouses/ hotels in the range of 1500 rs and upwards. 

Exploring Daman's Portuguese legacy  

Daman's 2 major areas~ Nani Daman(Nani meaning small) and Moti Daman (Moti meaning big), are both separated by a river. Quite frankly the town is quite disorderly and not well-maintained, except for the Portuguese churches and forts that lend a touch of grace and elegance.   

St. Jerome's fort

The extravagant gateway of St.Jerome's fort 

The fort is spread over a large area. Dom Jeronimo de Azevado, the 12th Portuguese viceroy of India initiated construction of the fort in 1672 CE and dedicated it to St.Jerome, the patron saint after whom he was himself named. The figurine of the saint can be seen at the centre-top of the gateway. Within the fort precincts is the church of Our Lady of the Sea; it's delightful to glance through its architectural excellence and interiors and the ol school pews. 

Location: Nani Daman, on the tranquil banks of the Daman Ganga river and is accessible from the main city market. Nani Daman jetty is right across and the Nani Daman beach on the other, although it didn't seem too enticing to wait longer.

It was almost evening and I was rather tired after my journey, so I spent the rest of the evening watching t.v. in my hotel room before turning in.

:: Day 2 ::

A bicycle tour is the best way to go around Daman, but since I... well.. I can't ride a bicycle 😔 so I planned to cover as much as I could by foot. After crossing the pedestrian bridge from Sai Baba temple at Nani Daman, I was now in Moti Daman.  

Bom jesus church

The frontage of Bom Jesus church, Daman

Not to be confused with the Bom Jesus cathedral at Old Goa. This is yet another cathedral by the same name in Moti Daman built by the Portuguese between 1559 to 1603.  I sat awhile and under the pretext of praying admired its Roman style architecture, imposing ceiling and ornate filial work.  

Moti Daman fort 

Moti Daman fort, Daman

The sun thankfully hid behind the clouds. No sooner had I reached the fort of Moti Daman, a strange sensation came over me. It wasn't as simple as stepping back in time, but kinda eerie~ as though the soldiers of the past were screaming 😱 through. So what went on at this fort I wondered? I looked around quickly but there was one in sight. I was torn between staying awhile at this incredibly huge fort or running away. 

But in the end I fled the scene. 'Maybe another time', I promised myself.  The experience was overwhelming; I said a prayer for the souls of people ~ though I am not sure who they were or what transpired. 

A cross at Daman

Taking a gulp of the gin I had kept close to me that day, I set out in search of some good food. 

vegetarian (Jain) indulgent thali

It's not always easy finding a restaurant that serves the most delicious and affordable meal; I was lucky to find one such place that is popular for jain vegetarian buffet thali (Sundays only). It was at Nani Daman but sadly I don't recollect the name). Despite being a small eater and not a big fan of thali meals, I relished every single item laid out on the buffet table.

The market and most establishments in Daman are shut down during the afternoon hours and only reopen in the evening. After a meal like that, I deserved an afternoon break myself.   

Drama at sundown  

After a sobering siesta, I walked down the pedestrian bridge once more. Beyond Moti Daman fort and along the newly constructed causeway; I continued my long beach walk at sunset when all of a sudden I spotted a young couple engaged in a heated argument at the far end of the beach. After spending some time under the evening glow, I walked  towards the jetty on my way back. On hearing a great deal of commotion, I rushed towards the jetty bank...

Not an everyday sight... A young girl attempted suicide at Daman; was it the same girl on the beach? Hmmm, I'm not sure as I hadn't gotten a closer look at her. She lived to see another day, and that's what matters most. Kudos  to the brave local guys who saved her 👌.

I hope you enjoyed reading this blog. Do comment and share with those who might like to read. 🙏

Next destination- Surat: shopping for textiles and diamonds