KUMBAKONAM is the equivalent of KANCHIPURAM as these are both Ancient Temple towns of Tamilnadu. Just as the temples of Kanchipuram have a strong influence of the PALLAVA dynasty, those lying within the Cauvery delta of KUMBAKONAM have a strong Chola dynasty influence and are certainly a feast for the eyes.
TABLE OF CONTENT
CHIDAMBARAM, GANGAIKONDA CHOLAPURAM
KUMBAKONAM
KUMBAKONAM
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KUMBAKONAM pilgrimage tour blog
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Tip~ This is a 3 day itinerary, designed keeping in mind elderly people, so they can have a comfortable darshan and soak in the spiritual ambience of this temple town. Moreover, some temples may have long queues.
Tip- This itinerary is in easy sequence that does best not overlap or go back and forth, while covering all major temples.
Tip~ You may use google maps to chart the route according to the day-wise sequence.
< Day 1 >
PONDICHERRY --> Chidambaram --> GANGAIKONDA CHOLAPURAM --> KUMBAKONAM
Incase you are following my itinerary, Day 1 starts from Pondicherry thereby reducing the distance by a great deal.
GANGAIKONDA CHOLAPURAM
It was almost evening when we drove into the non-descript little village of GANGAIKONDA CHOLAPURAM for a brief stopover. This place has immense historical significance, for it was here that Rajendra I, the great Chola king built his capital city from a barren piece of land. The temple here is a smaller replica of the Brihadeshwara temple at Thanjavur.
Where to stay in KUMBAKONAM
I don't mean to be discouraging, but staying in KUMBAKONAM is certainly beyond a poor pilgrim's reach. Most hotels are in the mid-range category, and a basic room will cost you avg 700rs/ 1 night for 2 people.
It was almost 8pm when we drove in and looked up 2/ 3 hotels for a cost-effective deal. Finally we zeroed down on a brand new mid-range place (don't remember the name). Luckily as we stepped in they were having an (Inauguration) pooja and we joined in. It felt so special, even the prasadam was super delicious.
It's been a long drive day, after a hot dinner at their inhouse restaurant, we will turn in ..Good night 😴
< Day 2 >
Adhi Kumbheshwar temple --> Brahma temple --> Sri Airavateeswarar temple, Darasuram --> Swamimalai --> Chakrapani temple --> Sarangpani and Ramasamy temple --> Kashi Vishwanathar temple
The best way to tour the temples is by hiring a cab/ auto for the purpose. Nearby temples can be even covered by a cycle rickshaw to keep the cost low.
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A cycle rickshaw ride in KUMBAKONAM
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Adhi Kumbeshwar temple
This Chola era temple is dedicated to Kumbeshwara (SHIVA). At first glance the gopuram of this temple is stunning and the SHIVLING looks unique with a tapering top. There are also small shrines of Ganesha and Sri Murugan. Look out for a pillared hall that was built later during the Vijayanagara era. It has carvings of 27 celestial stars and the zodiac signs, a testimony to the astronomical advancement of the time.
What to buy in KUMBAKONAM
The popular things to buy are metal objects, idols, utensils and the like in brass, copper and alloy. Adhi Kumbeshwara is pat inside the market area and right opposite are some interesting shops to do your purchases.
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Metal objects and utensils store at KUMBAKONAM
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Where to eat in KUMBAKONAM
There are many restaurants that serve mostly south indian vegetarian fare.
Brahma temple
This is one of the few Brahma temples in India. I missed visiting it, but it's a good idea to include it in your itinerary for the day.
Tip~ There are fewer restaurants as you travel away from the town area, so do keep snacks and water handy.
Tip~ All the temples are beautiful and photo-worthy, so be equipped with a good camera/ mobile camera 📷.
Sri Airavateswarar temple at Darasuram
The chariot shaped temple at Dussaram is grand and was built by Rajaraja II (1143-1174 CE). Watch how the Mandapa stands on a razed platform in the shape of a chariot that is about to take off.
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The dramatic-looking Sri Airavateswarar temple at KUMBAKONAM
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The setting of this temple is so unreal that it feels you have stepped back in time. The only other time I had a similar experience was at the Chenna Kesava temple at Belur. We walked along the spaces within and around admiring the breathtaking carvings on the pillars and walls, besides carvings of optical illusion.
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Walking back in time at Sri Airavateswarar temple, KUMBAKONAM
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Tip~ Sri Airavateswarar temple at Darasuram temple is not an active temples (no worship is conducted here); and is more like a heritage structure. So ideally visit this temple during the noon hours when other temples are closed.
We were here during the afternoon hours, and were fortunate to partake of the free annadana. It was delightful to see langurs (monkeys) seated along with humans within the temple grounds savoring the simple but delicious meal served on plantain leaf. All that rice and sambar made us so drowsy that we rested for a while in the beautiful lawns surrounding the place.
Swamimalai Murugan temple
Among the 6 Arupadai veedu, this is the 4th in the series. The previous 3 being Thiruparankundram, Tiruchendur and PALANI. The next 2 are Tiruttani and Pazhamudirchozhai.
Just as we had seen during our visit to PALANI and Tiruttani, here too the fervor of devotees as they run up the stairs towards the shrine of Murugan, set on a hillock makes one's heart filled with joy. It was evening and we were fortunate to witness the elaborate aarti. Sri Murugan abhishek (holy bath) is done using paste of sandalwood, ghee and bathed with milk and water.
< 2nd half of Day 2 >
On our return, we thought it advisable to stop for refreshments, shower and a fresh change of clothes before visiting the last 3 temples for the day. All these are located within KUMBAKONAM town and can be done in any order.
Kashi Vishwanathar temple
Another ancient temple that traces its origins to the times of Ramayana. According to legend, during the course of their search for Sita, Rama and Lakshmana came to this temple to worship Shiva. The name is similar to Kasi Vishwanathar in Varanasi. Bathing in the Mahamagam tank is considered auspicious.
Sarangpani temple
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Spectacular Rajgopuram of Sarangpani temple, KUMBAKONAM
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At first glance, one can see the splendid Rajagopuram~ so tall and intricately carved. I stood there admiring it for a long time. The temple is dedicated to Lord Sarangpani and it is among the 108 Divya desams sacred to the Vaishnavite sect. The Cholas, Vijayanagara rulers and Nayaks also contributed in making the temple what it is today. The evening aarti is certainly a beautiful experience.
Ramasamy temple
When at Sarangpani, also visit Ramasamy temple which is in the same precincts. It's a temple dedicated to Sri Rama and built by the Nayaks in the 16CE.
Chakrapani temple
The last temple for the evening is Sri Chakrapani which is a Vaishnavite temple. I was particularly mystified by the ambience and setting of the temple. It has such a powerful and positive aura especially with young Brahmin boys reciting the vedas. The temple is called Chakrapani as Sri Vishnu is said to have appeared in the form of Sudarshan Chakra here.
< Day 3 >
Thiruvidaimaruthur --> Thirubhuvanam --> Thirunageeswaram --> Uppilappan koil --> Nachiar koil --> Patteeswaram & Return KUMBAKONAM
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Rice fields of the Cauvery delta, TamilNadu
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Driving through the verdant green fields of the CAUVERY DELTA in TamilNadu is indeed a pleasure. Fertile paddy fields and banana plantations can be seen, so we took frequent breaks for photo ops and breathing in the fresh air.
Thiruvidaimaruthur
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The giant Nandi of Thiruvidaimaruthur temple, KUMBAKONAM
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Lord Shiva is known as Mahalingeshwara here at Thiruvidaimaruthur. As one steps in there is a mammoth Nandi facing the main sanctum. The temple is ancient and has received patronage from the Pandyas, Cholas, Nayaks and even Marathas.
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The beautiful and spacious temple of Thiruvidaimaruthur
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It is believed that Shiva himself laid down the protocol of Saivaite worship here. There was a mention somewhere about sinister carvings in the dark corners of this temple. Our guide mentioned that people with malefic effects, like victims of black magic and the like come here to get rid of their sufferings, though I'm not so sure. But the carvings on the walls and pillars are beautiful.
Thirubuvanam
Yet another Shaivite temple built by a Chola king. Lord Shiva here is worshipped as Kampa-Hareshwar and it looks similar to Brihadeshwara temple at Thanjavur.
Thirunageswaram Naganathar temple
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Thirunageeswaram Naganathar is one amongst the 9 Navagraha sthalams, dedicated to Rahu
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As one of the 9 Navagraha sthalam Thirunageeswaram Naganathar is a popular temple dedicated to Rahu ie. North Lunar Node. Fridays are dedicated to Rahu and one can expect the temple to be crowded.
This is also a Shiva temple and Lord Shiva is worshipped as Naganathar and Parvati is Gujambigai. Although unable to get any photos, I must say this is a beautiful temple. The pillars and ceilings have frescoes painted with natural dyes in green, indigo and other light shades.
Sri Oppiliappan koil (temple)
This is a revered Vishnu temple which is among the 108 Divya desams (divine Vishnu temples). It's likely to be crowded so factor some wait time here. Temple closes at 1 pm, if you had an early start you should do good.
Patteeswaram
After a leisurely lunch one can visit Patteeswaram, a village with 2 temples of antiquity~ Thenupuriswara and Shaktivaneswara.
....And that is the end of our 3-day pilgrimage tour. Return to KUMBAKONAM. You deserve some rest and a hot dinner.
Thanks for reading. Your comments will be appreciated. Please share this blog with people who may need it. Bye for now!
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