Ahmedabad has proven to be an emotionally distressing city for me at a personal level; fake and hostile relatives and now this bad crush that I could well... do without! After my last trip to Somnath, Girnar and Dwarka (spiritual journey), I spent a few weeks in Ahmedabad to pull myself together. Visiting a new place they say works like a charm, so I'll pack my bags for a new journey across the white deserts of KUTCH.
When a man is out of sight, It's not long before he's out of mind.~ Victor Hugo, French poet
KUTCH is the farthest western district of Gujarat jutting into the Arabian sea and bordering Pakistan's Sindh province to the north. The major part of this district are the marshy salt flats better known as the Great Rann of Kutch or White desert.
Getting here:
Bhuj, a major city in Kutch district, is well-connected to Ahmedabad by air, rail and road. The most affordable and convenient means to travel is boarding a night train to Bhuj.
Pleasure & pain tugged at my heartstrings as I boarded 19115 DDR BHUJ Exp at 23.59 hrs. The train was scheduled to reach Bhuj at 07.00 am. Twice I experienced myoclonic jerks which most likely could be due to my emotional upheaval ie. the sensation of slipping while in deep sleep.
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| 19115 DDR BHUJ Exp drawing in at Bhuj 07.00 early morning |
The train came to a grinding halt well on time but much too early for checking-in.
Where to stay at Bhuj:
There are multiple hotels in various categories. These are usually full during the Great Rann festival season (Dec, Jan) so book in advance.
I checked-in at City guest house, nearby Prag Mahal. Langa street, Nr. Darbargad, Bhuj_ ph: 02832 221 067 / 9913922669. They host backpackers which is an excellent option for solo travellers, at 300 rs/ dorm. For early arrivals, they allow usage of the clean common washrooms before check-in time. There are other backpackers hostels like this one, do look around.
Things to do in Bhuj
Before merging with the Republic of India in 1947, Kutch was an independent princely state ruled by Jadeja Rajputs who originally belonged to the Sindh province in present-day Pakistan. Around 15th ce they migrated eastwards and settled in Bhuj. Since then Bhuj has been the administrative capital of the state from 1549 CE till this day. Much of the palaces and buildings owe credit to the erstwhile Jadeja Rajput rulers.
After holding my bags in the locker, followed by a hot shower and breakfast, I stepped out to explore a bit.
Shri Swaminarayan Mandir
The most profound experience is an early morning visit to a temple. Swaminarayan Mandir is set in pristine surroundings. The sounds of aarti~ drums, cymbals and bells resonated with slow tempo first and towards the end built up a rhythmic crescendo. The crowd clapped together along with the beat, filling the empty space in my heart and my soul with joy.
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| Gopuram- Swaminarayan mandir, Bhuj |
Similar to other Swaminarayan mandirs, I found out here too that the trust provides affordable stay; ₹300-500/ day for a private room and ₹100/ day for dormitory. Kindly check online and verify availability etc before booking.
đź’ˇFor those interested in doing a self-tour, rental bikes are available near the bus stand. Splendor ₹300 per day, Activa ₹300 per day and Royal Enfield ₹800 per day.
Kutch museum
Kutch museum was founded in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji III (r. 19 Dec 1875 to 15 Jan 1942), and is said to be the oldest museum of Gujarat. Among its priceless exhibits are the 1st CE indus seals and Airavat, the fabled white Indian elephant with 7 tusks. The museum building was built by a British engineer in typical Italian Gothic style of architecture. There are 11 sections so allow at least 2 hours to view at leisure.
Location: across Satyanarayan mandir
It was almost noon, so I visited Swaminarayan mandir once again to partake of their delicious vegetarian lunch (₹50 meal) before heading back to my hotel for an afternoon siesta.
Prag Mahal palace
Khengarji III's father and predecessor, Maharao Pragmalji II (r. 26 July 1860 to 19 Dec 1875) was a progressive Rao and credited with a number of developmental works, one of them being~ Prag mahal palace.
Prag mahal palace (built between 1865- 1879 CE), was designed in typical Romanesque architectural style by a Britisher, Col. Henry St. Claire Wilkins. It was an expensive venture it is said, at a staggering cost of ₹3.1 million at the time. The palace is a masterpiece in luxury; built using sandstone with Italian marble flooring, Corinthian pillars, chandeliers and art dĂ©co statues. The 2001 Kutch earthquake had a devastating effect, hence entry is restricted to some portions of the palace.
Open- Mon to Sat. Ticket price, Indian ₹20/ camera ₹30/.
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Prag mahal, Bhuj after 2001 Kutch earthquake
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:: DAY 2 ::
KUTCH DAY TOUR by private car
A full day tour by private car is a convenient and hassle-free way to cover the maximum number of places further away from Bhuj. I had been contemplating about it at breakfast, when the hotel manager came up to me and asked if I'd be interested to join a group of 3 french tourists by car. I was obviously elated!
Javed bhai was our tour guide and driver for the day. He's a humble and easy-going guy. Per car costs approx ₹3000 (4 pax), so that works out to less than ₹1k pp. However, do wassup him at +91 6359 346 977 and confirm the booking.
There are many other tour operators in the same category.
đź’ˇ Indians- carry aadhar card/ Voter Id, Pan Card, Passport and p/copy. Foreigners- carry passport and p/copy. Since the White Rann is at the country's border, you will need to make an entry and sign the register. If you go with a private cab tour, these guys know the protocol and organise the permits. There may be a nominal entry fee of ₹100/ 200.
đź’ˇBest time to visit - Nov to March. If you are looking for a quieter vacation Feb-Mar is a good time.
The White Rann is about 90km from Bhuj. Enroute, we made several stopovers...
Rakshak van
Our first stop was Rakshak van. This sprawling garden is a1972 India-Pakistan war memorial. The contribution and sacrifice of our armed forces as well as the locals of villages surrounding this place is beautifully depicted throughout the garden.
Nirona crafts village
Nirona is a crafts village that has gained considerable popularity for its unique Rogan fabric art, metal crafts and ajrakh block printing which is similar to the artisans who live across the border in Pakistan. Read more about Nirona
Tropic of Cancer, Rudramata, Kutch
The Tropic of Cancer in India passes from east to west through the states of Mizoram, Tripura, West Bengal, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and finally at
Rudramata, Kutch in Gujarat. Great Rann of Kutch lies to the north of the Tropic of Cancer.
~Bhirandiara stopover for refreshments~
As we drew into Bhirandiara (50 kms from Bhuj), it seemed we had entered into a muslim dominated region, plus they looked so impoverished and isolated. Culture shock and skewed perception struck me; It was if we had already stepped into Pakistan. Then I reminded myself that we could be less than 100 kms from the border with the same stock of people on the other side.
We stopped at a restaurant for lunch, where I found sockets to charge my phone. Bhirandiara is famous for its mava.
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Mava (dessert prepared out of milk) is a speciality of a small village called Bhirandiara in Kutch
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Kalo Dungar
Kalo Dungar (black hill), at 462 meters, is the highest point in Great Rann of Kutch. It is accessible via the village of Khavda (25 kms away). We did a brief stopover at Khavda to check out some painted pottery. It is heartening to see our guide stopping at places where skilled locals can earn a few bucks for their hard labour.
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| A view of the white salt marshlands, pic taken from Kalo dungar, Kutch |
Few BSF soldiers are posted here on duty. On a clear day one can see all the way till the Pakistan border with a telescope of course. On the hill is a much revered temple that is said to be 400 years old. The temple is dedicated to Shri Dattatreya; an incarnation of Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh.
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| A panoramic view of Kalo Dungar, close to India Pakistan border, Great Rann of Kutch |
We spent a considerable time dancing alongwith with the local musicians at kalo dungar. Time just flew by, before our guide signalled us to get on the move...
Gandhi nu gam, Ludiya
Gandhi nu gam is a dedicated handicrafts village. Before getting here we took a short tea break at Khavda.
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| Gandhi nu gam handicrafts village at Kutch Gujarat |
This village too bore the brunt of the 2001 Earthquake, but was restored with the help of govt. aid. 3.30 pm may have been an odd hour as very few places were open. So I took the liberty of stepping inside a Kutchi home, and it was truly heart-warming. The kitchen and sitting area was so well-organised in such a tiny space!
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| Assorted handicrafts jewellery, bags and knick knacks on sale |
White Rann of Kutch
So Javed, our guide knew all along; the best time to visit the White Rann of Kutch is either sunrise or sunset. Dhordo is at the edge of the salt desert and this apparently was our last stop for the day. We were free to spend all evening walking around this vast barren white landscape.
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| A panoramic view of White Rann of Kutch~ 7,505.22 sq kms the largest salt desert in the world |
I glanced around and found we were not alone; a couple here... no there... they may be close by but looked so distant, or a family there.. no here they may have been far away but looked so close. The shift in visual disorientation of the White Rann could I'm sure, drive me crazy.
If you're still reading, do also check out my
complete India travel itinerary plan.
Visions of the White Rann haunted me that night; I dreamt as if I was walking a long time into the distant horizon that had no end.
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| A distant horizon with no end, White Rann of Kutch |
:: DAY 3 ::
BHUJ to MANDVI ½ day trip
Bhuj-Mandavi is a route frequented by locals and the road is excellent. I boarded a shared cab 58 km/₹50 per pax that dropped me at Ship building yard. From here, I hired an auto ₹150 that first took me to Vijay Vilas palace before dropping me at Mandvi beach.
Vijay Vilas palace
Timings: 11 am-1 pm & 2 pm-6 pm daily
I got to know this palace was the setting for a famous bollywood movie named Dil de Chuke Sanam. The palace was built (1920- 1929) by Khengarji III for his son and successor Yuvraj Vijayarajaji. The plan is similar to the palaces of Orchha and seems to be a mix of Indian and western styles. Constructed in red sandstones with jhalis, stained glass windows and roman columns; are among the elements in use. I paid ₹100 entry ticket and walked at leisure throughout the palace clicking as many pics as I wanted to. The photo gallery is truly impressive and gives an impression of the royal family's brush with the rich and famous.
Mandvi beach
The 4pm sun glare struck me no sooner I got her, so I hung out at a nearby restaurant for refreshments. The sand at Mandvi beach is compact and brown in color. The beach itself is vast with fewer people. Unlike the beaches of Goa and Kerala Mandvi certainly lacks foreign tourists.
:: Day 4 ::
On Day 4, I visited Sharad baug palace, Aina mahal and did some shopping before boarding a night train to Ahmedabad.
I do hope you enjoyed reading my blog post. Do comment and let me know your views. Bye for now 🙏
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