Unbelievable Secret hideout in the hills!! 13 kms from MUSSOORIE, Uttarakhand

Mussoorie was once a favoured summer escape for British elite and Indian royalty. But that was a long time ago. Today the hilly town is a favourite haunt for weekenders who make their way from Delhi and other parts of India. The town is cluttered with innumerable hotels while its narrow streets are traffic congested on weekends.

Getting here~ Mussoorie is 28 kms from Dehradun, the state's capital and can be reached by a curvy mountainous road. If you plan on using public transport, there are regular buses from Dehradun to Mussoorie.

Previous blog post- 6 top things to do in Dehradun

Offbeat hostel hidden in the hills of Mussoorie 

A nature retreat hostel deep inside a valley at Kandi Baglon Ki, 13 kms from Mussoorie 

Exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations and adrenaline rush adventures ain't my priority anymore. I've grown older and wiser and prefer the easy way out; but those perks come with higher spends. After browsing thoroughly for the cheapest stay option at Mussoorie, I stumbled upon one property that was nearer to my budget. 

BANGALOW KI KANDI is a tiny village nestled within an isolated lush valley 13 kms from Mussoorie. Rahul the hostel incharge who was kind enough to receive me pointed out yonder; "That's the hostel right there," he said, "Wwwait, where?!" I stared in disbelief into the valley below.  

A hostel in an isolated valley, Kandi Baglon Ki- off. Mussoorie-Yamunotri road

After a short diversion from the Mussoorie-Yamunotri main road we reached a juncture , "this road to the right leads to Kempty falls," said my host as we took the other way. I nodded half-heartedly. Holding on to my backpack, suitcase and my balance on a bike ride along the steep downhill path was no easy task. 

💡This is not a promotional blog but completely to do with my personal experiences. Please comment if you want more details regarding the hostel.

💡In order to reach here, board the bus to Kempty falls from Dehradun, and request to be dropped at Bangalow ki Kandi. Thereafter there is about 1.5 km steep downhill road to the hostel.

A haven of peace and serenity 

I dropped my bags to the floor breathing in the pure fresh air and soaked in the surrounding environs that seemed so unreal to a 🏙️ city-dweller like me. The sight of the towering hills and the sounds of gurgling natural streams was instantly rejuvenating; 'maybe Rahul would know about the streams' I made a mental note to check on this later.

"Hi, mam, would you like to eat something?" said a voice from behind the door. Gosh I must have fallen asleep... "Sure!' I replied, and headed to the hall. When an affordable hostel in the woods offers stable wiFi, an in-house restaurant and a bonfire pit for chilly nights~ what more can a digital nomad ask for?! "Will you please extend my stay for another two days?" I requested my host. "Sure, why not!" he assured, as I munched on my aloo paratha.

An ideal workation in the serene hills

A trail leading downhill towards Kempty falls Mussoorie 

It was almost evening. "Is there a natural stream nearby?" I inquired haltingly while peering over a steaming cup of tea. "Oh, that!" answered Mohit. "This place is surrounded by natural flowing streams." I couldn't wait to find out so we formed a small group along with 2 other French tourists and set out to explore A Trail leading further downhill to Kempty falls.

The trail leading downhill towards Kempty falls, Mussoorie 

It was a well-paved pathway with steep inclines at a few places. To our right flowed multiple tiered small waterfalls and streams gushing with sparkling water.

Cascading waterfalls 

 

It was a warm evening and I imagined how refreshing it would feel to bathe in the tiny pools. Few folks who knew about this place had come well-prepared and could be seen frolicking in the dammed pools.

Refreshing pools of sparkling clear water

The trail seemed to go about 1½km downhill until the road. Mohit stated the steps would continue for another 2 kms.. I gasped, wondering about the strenuous climb uphill and felt it was prudent to stop right there and begin the upward climb. 

💡 Almost all hostels/ hotels in and around Mussoorie hike their rates during weekends. Hence, as & when you find a suitable rate book the number of days you wish to stay at one go. 

: DAY 2 :

Hailstorms play spoilsport and ruin the day 

86% of Uttarakhand is mountainous with 65% forest cover. The northern reaches comprises of Himalayan peaks that are well-known for its unpredictable climatic conditions; extreme cold and inclement weather. Heavy monsoons accompanied by hailstorms take place from June until end-Aug. Before the onslaught of tourism, Mussoorie even received snowfall (last in the winter of 2014). However, rising infrastructural development has caused heavy logging thereby altering climatic conditions.

We imagine therefore the best time to visit would be March to June. But Mohit warned us, "it rains 'some days' even in March." he remarked. Ominous dark clouds ☁️ in the sky brought not just rains but torrential hailstorms that evening. 

: DAY 3 :

A day at Mussoorie  

💡 Getting around- Mussoorie's winding roads are presently (March 2023) undergoing repairs at multiple places causing inconvenience to pedestrians and traffic. 

Charming Mussoorie is undergoing road repairs at multiple places 

The best way to explore is by foot or by cycle rickshaw. Library chowk is central to the town- A 19th century Victorian-style library stands right opposite it. My first stop was Gun hill. The 2km steep climb is best attempted in the morning hours as it's rather strenuous. In case you wish to avoid the uphill effort, there is also a ropeway (₹200/ to the hill and back). During the pre-Independence British era, a cannon placed here was fired at noon for people to adjust their watches. 

Below: Panoramic view of Mussoorie from atop Gun hill. 

I also spotted the 1800s Gothic CHRIST CHURCH, but sadly it was shut. Then there are the roads, such as; Mall road, Camel's back road and Kulri bazar. But most likely due to the road conditions it didn't seem so much fun after all. I missed out on many places such as Landour and George Everest view point and felt it was ok- remember? older and wiser me!

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