Bir, Mccleodganj-Dharamshala tour~ Kangra valley~ Himachal Pradesh

The previous year's monsoons (2023) had a devastating affect on the hilly state of Himachal Pradesh. Although I was mostly unaffected as I had been staying in Pinjore. This year too, I decided on a transit stay at Mandi town, for the rainy months of July and August before heading onwards to the Kangra region. 

Previous blog: Srinagar - Leh- Manali by public transport 

When to visit Kangra valley

Mar-May and Sep-mid-Nov. Winters are very cold and snowfall can cut off the roads in Jan-Feb, the coldest months.

Meadows and unmatched views of the east Kangra Valley. This is Bir paragliding landing site during off-season

BIR

Distance from Mandi- 68kms

Bir is famous as a paragliding 🪂 landing site, while Billing situated at a higher elevation is the place from where paragliders take off. The paragliding season is closed during monsoons and resumes around Sep 16th.

Bir has a significant Tibetan population, and a number of monasteries; more famous among these is ~ Nyingma monastery and Chokling monastery. 

If you're here on a Sunday; spend a couple of hours at Nyingma monastery for a profound experience in soul-healing Tibetan chants and sounds.

Yet another interesting place around Bir is the ancient Baijnath (Shiva) mandir, approx 11 kms/ 20 mins distance from Mandi by road.

𝗠𝗰𝗖𝗟𝗘𝗢𝗗𝗚𝗔𝗡𝗝

Mccleodganj - Dharamshala is the Seat of the Tibetan govt-in-exile. 

The twin towns are divided into Upper Dharamsala or McLeodganj, where the Dalai Lama has his official residence and where a large Tibetan community lives in exile, and Lower Dharamsala (the commercial hub), 9 km away by road down the hill.

A BRIEF HISTORY

From the 2nd to the 4th century CE, Dharamsala became a Buddhist site and many monasteries were established here. From the 6th to the 15th centuries, there was an influx of Rajput tribes to this region.

In the 8th century CE, Buddhism declined and Hinduism experienced a revival. Later, the Gurkhas occupied Kangra Fort in the early 19th century but the British annexed the area by 1848 and established a military garrison here. Dharamsala eventually became the administrative capital of Kangra District in 1852 and a popular hill station with the British. 

After the town was virtually destroyed in the massive earthquake of 1905, the British moved their summer headquarters to Shimla. 

When the Dalai Lama fled Tibet, India provided him refuge in Dharamsala, and a Tibetan settlement and government-in-exile came up here. Since then, several thousand Tibetan exiles have settled in the town, mostly in McLeodganj (named after David McLeod, who was the Lieutenant Governor of Punjab when the town was stabilised as a British garrison in the mid-1850s).

Where to stay

If you're looking for affordable stays, hostels are an ideal option especially for solo travelers. Most hostels in the range of ₹200- ₹500 per night are located in main Mccleodganj area,  further up in Dharamkot and closer towards Bhagsu waterfalls. There are also several budget and mid-range hotels in these places.

T̲H̲I̲N̲G̲S̲ ̲T̲O̲ ̲S̲E̲E̲ ̲A̲N̲D̲ ̲D̲O̲

The streets are uphill and downhill. 

DAY 01

Take a leisurely walk from the junction (bus stand/ taxi stand) at Mccleodganj junction along the street leading towards Dalai Lama temple. It's a heady vibe of a mix of Israeli and Indian tourists, eclectic looking shops selling curios, small street kiosks selling momo, cafes and restaurants. 

Mccleodganj street leading towards Dalai Lama temple 

The Kalchakra monastery is to the left. Kalachakra- meaning Wheel of Life ☯️ is a philosophical system of Tibetan Buddhism. Tibetans believe that its empowerment ceremonies can cleanse the environment of any malicious, sad or unhappy thought or deed and

revitalise its natural energies. The initiatory rites are thus considered to contribute towards world peace and harmony.

Slightly further to your right is the skyway station that covers the short distance ( 9 km) between Mccleodganj - Dharamshala. 

Tsung-Iha-Khang temple complex is straight down the street. The Dalai Lama temple is on the first floor of the complex.

The Tsuglagkhang (Central Chapel)

The Dalai Lama's palace (The Old Mortimer House, residence of the British Viceroy) is a collusion of office space, an audience chamber and the Dalai Lama's personal quarters. 

Also within the complex is the Namgyal Monastery, where you experience the continuous drone of chanting and monks who are going about their daily chores. The two-tiered Tibet Museum, features exhibits related to the Chinese occupation of Tibet and the community's projections and hopes of the future.

Timings- Closed Mondays

Museum Entry - ₹5 per person

Do all, but don't miss out on the food scene! Such an eclectic blend of cuisines to choose from; Tibetan, Indian, Biryanis, dessert cafés, Italian, liquor lounges~ you'll be spoilt for choice.

A warm hearty bowl of Thupka to comfort the soul

The Dalai Lama temple road forks to  Jogiwara road that is also lined with curio shops, restaurants and the like. Jogiwara road incidentally goes downhill to Dharamshala~ it a steep 3 kms downhill climb, which can leave you breathless on the way up.  

TIP- Taxis are available for sightseeing and getting around from one place to another. The rates however are steep; ₹150 and upward.

DAY 02

Mccleodganj junction upward towards Dharamkot and Bhagsu waterfalls 

One road from Mccleodganj junction leads towards Bhagsu waterfalls (kindly check with locals). The road is lined with several inexpensive food joints.

Bhagsu Nag temple (H.P.)

It's possible to hike all the way up to the waterfalls, or choose to watch it from a safe distance. This place is along the Triund trek (9kms) route and thus common to spot trekkers on this path. 

There is a paved (shortcut) walkway from Bhagsu to the Dharamkot road at the top. The road will end at RR Hotel. Take the right direction from RR Hotel to Dharamkot (approx 1½ kms walking distance). 

Dharamkot is set amid tall pines and rhododendron forests and offers a great view of the mighty Dhauladhar. The main market in Dharamkot village is a compact row of houses, guesthouses, cafés and shops. 

On the return stop by TIPA (Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts). TIPA is the venue for annual Shoton Opera Festival, a 10-day fiesta held in all its exotic pageantry during spring 🌱 🌼 (Feb/Mar). On other days, one can visit the small museum of Tibetan culture.

DAY 03

Downhill road trek from Mccleodganj to Dharamshala apprx 2.5 kms

Day 3 was the most interesting day of my Mccleodganj visit. From Mccleodganj walk downhill along the Jogiwara road. This is a narrow one way traffic road and not so crowded. There are some interesting cafés and curio shops for about 1 km. If you haven't then stop by one of cafes of your choice and have a hearty breakfast before continuing further downhill.

Midway is The Tibet museum 🖼️; a must visit place to get an insight on the Tibetans' struggle of Independence from China. 

Tibetan men and women costumes at the Tibet museum. The museum stresses on preserving Tibetan culture, tradition and customs

Tip- reach here around 11:30 atleast. It will take an hour to soak in the ambience and information at the museum. 

All the buildings are closed from 1pm to 3pm for lunch.

Also visit The Library of Tibetan Works and Archives (9am-5 pm Mon-Sat) located opposite the museum. It houses valuable ancient texts as well as translations of Buddhist texts.

The museum complex has a small Tibetan canteen where you can have lunch.

Continue onwards. The route will take you all the way down until Kotwali bazar, Dharamshala. The bazar is vibrant and has a mix of good stores selling groceries, clothing, electrical appliances and a few restaurants . 

After browsing through the bazar, head onwards to Kangra Art Museum (550m from the bus stand ). This small  museum houses a treasure trove of art and crafts indigenous to Kangra valley as well as artefacts dating from the 5th ce. Of particular interest is the gallery filled with beautiful Kangra style miniature paintings.

Timings- 10am to 5pm Mon Closed

Entry- Indians ₹10, Foreigners ₹50

You can avoid the uphill trek by hopping into a shared vehicle going to Mccleodganj. The place for getting shared vehicles is right opposite the bus stand. Ideally halt at Forsythganj, just below McLeodganj. Here is the British era church of St. John in the Wildernes. There is a memorial of Viceroy Lord Elgin who died and was buried here in 1863.

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