An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar...
Mysore's Royal Indulgences Top 10
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At the heart of South India's cultural hub lies Mysore/ Mysuru, a city of extravaganza and lavish opulence. Everything you heard or read about 'oh poor India' 'a developing nation' blah blah will go right out of the window when you step into her palaces and art galleries.
How to explore Mysore (a blog)
How to reach Mysore/ Mysuru
Mysore is well-connected by air / rail / road to all major cities and even smaller towns in South India.
< Day 1 >
Theppakadu to Mysore 90 kms/ 2 hrs
After 3 days in the jungles of Mudhumalai, I boarded a minibus from Theppakadu and bid farewell to wild elephants and herds of deer along the forest stretch, passed by Bandipur NP and Nanjangud... And as I entered the city, a huge board greeted me, 'Welcome to Mysore : The Land of Maharajas'
And why not ?!
India is a nation which was made of 565 princely states until her Independence from British rule in 1947. Mysore was one of the few important states. The Kingdom of Mysore, as it was known then, was governed by the Wodeyar family who have kept the Maharaja tradition alive till today.
An old friend and colleague who I knew back in my Mumbai days was employed here in Mysore. I was so excited to know she was going to be here to receive me...
After getting some rest, the first thing we did was find a cool pub to wind up the day.
TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN MYSORE
When in Mysore, here are 10 things you need to tick from your checklist [ in any order].
#1Nightlife in Mysore
Although nightlife in Mysore isn't as comparable to nearby Bangalore, there are still some cool places to chill.
The ambience at Purple Haze was psychedelic. The theme was Hard Rock and a giant screen was playing Jon Bon Jovi as we entered. It was only 7.30 pm and the party was just getting started. We ordered cocktails and starters until Lina's friend showed up.
Cocktails and starters
Later we ordered a beer barrel among the 3 of us which kept the mood going. Around 9-10 pm headbangers were loosening up as the club played Welcome to the Jungle by Guns and Roses and a host of other numbers from the 70' and 80s.
< Day 2 >
#2Mysore Palace walkthrough
Just as the palaces of Rajasthan in North India will leave you spellbound, so also the Mysore Palace in the state of Karnataka, South India.
Also known as the Amba Vilas Palace, it was built in 1897-1912. The palace's imposing gates with the insignia, life-size tigers in bronze on either side, and gold-plated marble domes portray royalty and authority.
The architect is Henry Irwin from British India, while the Wodeyar rulers who were patrons of art and culture left no stone unturned to have the best craftsmen to build this monument.
As I followed the queue of visitors we passed by exquisitely carved doors with ivory and bronze embellishments, and lavish ornamental chandeliers. The Kalyana Mandapa (marriage hall) in gold, aqua green and creams with its peacock motifs, and stained glass took my breath away. Besides a treasure of artifacts on display~ including the Golden Throne.
There are two durbar halls (meeting halls), one of which opens out to the grand elephant gate that seemingly merges into the outdoors, as it overlooks the large gardens surrounding the palace.
Timing~ 10 am to 5 pm, Entry~ 70 rs
Mysore Palace virtual tour
Tip : I suggest doing the Mysore Palace tour independently at leisure, instead of accompanying a tour group.
#3Tonga (horsecart) ride around the city
The Palace tour was tiring, I was hunghttps://youtube.com/shorts/Qfkm5OtAfwU?feature=sharery and thirsty, so we took a lunch break at nearby Hotel Mysore Refreshments, and later struck a bargain with a tongawalla, and asked him to just take us around.
tonga (horecart) ride in Mysore
Tip : we could find tongas around the Mysore Palace.
Mysore's landmark ornate roundabouts (traffic circle) such as KR Circle, Chamarajendra Circle (1920) and Hardinge Circle does give the impression of being a royal yourself while riding through the city on a tonga.
KR Circle, Mysore - heritage site
#4Evening sound & light show at Mysore Palace grounds
An eventful way to end a fine day in Mysore is the Sound and Light show.
While the palace is illuminated only on Sundays and Public holidays from 7 to 8 pm, the Sound and Light show is held daily on the sprawling palace grounds.
< Day 3, 4 >
After a day of relaxation, cooking some food together and catching up on ol' times, I had chalked out my tour for the following day...
#5Jaganmohan palace and art gallery
This palace was initially built by Krishnaraja Wodeyar III as a second home for the royal family and is presently an art gallery. If you love art, expect to spend 3 hours at least, as this gallery is a treasure house of priceless Raja Ravi Verma's paintings. Also those of other prominent names such as Rabindranath Tagore, Nikolai Roerich and many others. Particularly interesting is the family tree of the Wodeyar Dynasty,1399 to 1950.
#6Chamundi hills
Goddess Chamundi is the family goddess of the Mysore rulers and the Chamundeshwari temple devoted to goddess lies atop the Chamundi hill. There are 1,008 steps that reach up to the temple. The easier option is to board a bus to Chamundi hills temple.
#7Mysore Dasara celebrations
2021 Dates - 7th to 15th Oct
Dussehra/ Dasara is a10 day Hindu festival celebrated all over India during Sept/ Oct. The Mysore Dasara festivities are carried out on a grand scale, with the whole city being lit up and decorated with flowers.
Golden howdah (Ambari) was previously the Maharaja's seat during Dasara. Now carrying goddess Chamundeshwari is placed instead at Mysore Dasara celebrations. It weighs about 750kgs.
On the last day of the festival there is an elaborate ceremonial procession, and a beautifully decorated elephant will carry goddess Chamundi from the Mysore Palace. The GOLDEN HOWDAH (called as Ambari) which carries the goddess they say weights 750 kgs all in gold!!
< Day 5 >
#8St.Philomena's church
This 1843 church built in Neo-Gothic style looks imposing and like a tall chocolate cake. The interiors are just as graceful
St.Philomena's church, Mysore
It was the first time I went to a church that had catacombs ( basically an underground cemetery). It gave me a creepy and strange feeling to walk along the corridor with small niches of tombstone. Also called 'crypts' they were originally constructed by Romans.
#9Mysore zoo
Was started way back in 1892 by Chamaraja Wodeyar X initially exclusively for visits by the royal family. This is really a big zoo and will take at least 3- 4 hours. The birds collection is mind-blowing, it also has a reptiles section.
< Day 6 >
#10Shopping in Mysore
Mysore Silk
The most common thing that comes to mind when you think of traditional shopping in Mysuru is silk. Especially silk saris and I assure you they don't come cheap. Minimum price for silk saree is10k and depends on how much 'real gold' is used. Even a basic simple stole/ scarf can cost 1000 rs and above.
Even so the question is how to identify real natural silk' ie. made out of silkworms. There is a test to find that out ~ but the shortcut is to buy it from an authentic source.
Government Silk Factory ( KSIC Silk weaving factory) is the official original government factory outlet located at Mananthavadi Rd, Near NI Engineering College, Vidyaranyapura, Mysuru.
There are however many other private stores that sell Art silk (basically synthetic silk) in the name of silk. Silk does look and feel good~ I once bought a salwar set in green, maroon with gold border for 800rs ( many years back) and believe me no matter how much I wore the outfit, the rich lustre was intact.
Mysore Sandalwood
Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium
Is another big name and is Karnataka state govt store for buying craft sandalwood and rosewood products and artifacts, besides other traditional art and jewellery.
There are just 2 authentic stores~ one is at the Mysore palace itself and the second one on S.R. Road. So many people have been duped by private outlets who sell in the name of the government store.
Tip : If you are tagged with a tour group, the guide will invariably stop at a private store, so they get a %cut out of the products bought by their tourists.
Another authentic store
The Government Sandalwood Oil Factory, Kuvempu Nagar
Timings: 9:30 AM - 11:00 AM and 14:00 PM - 16:00 PM. Closed on Sundays
Mysore pak
Is a mithai (sweet) traditionally related to Mysore. The biggest name in this category is Guru sweets near Devaraja Urs Market. However, there are many other places you can buy from.
Mysore pak (sweet) delicacy of Mysore
Besides other palaces like Rajendra Vilas and Lalitha Mahal, which has been converted into a hotel; and Jayalakshmi Vilas, there are many other places of interest around Mysore.
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