The trail of the British Raj : 1-day CHENNAI city Self-tour

Chennai or Madras as it was known during the British Raj has a rich legacy of colonial buildings and architecture left behind by the British, many of these are still in use to this day. The trail of the British Raj will take you on a tour of these remarkable buildings to get a sense of how it all started and progressed.

TABLE OF CONTENT 

1- Fort St. George
2- Zero point Milestone
3- Ripon Building & Victoria public hall
4- CHENNAI CENTRAL RLY STN 1873
5- Egmore railway station

 

Tip~ If you plan on doing a walking tour, the total distance is roughly 4km. It can get hot during the day, so do carry a cap, water and some snacks.

 

Previous blog~ SIRUSERI: CHENNAI's new glitzy frontier

Fort St. George 1644 

Timings~ 9 am to 5 pm, Fridays closed
Entry fee, Museum 20rs (Indian)

Built by Francis Day in 1640, this fort was the stronghold of British power in India. The fort sets out a living example of India during the British era. It was named St.George after the patron saint of England. 

A model of Fort St.George displayed at the Fort museum

1640- Construction of Fort St. George begins. It got completed over a span of 13 years.

1645- East India Company obtains permission to expand the fort. This foundation is what exists to this day

placard about Fort St George

Read- On the Trail of the British Raj

The eventual years of Fort St George~

1640- 1749: Formation of institutions

Fort St. George was a birthplace of several 'institutions'. Governor Langhorne began the systematic filing of records of all transactions at the fort. In 1676, they acquired the ancient village of Triplicane; and thereby the expansion of the Madras beyond its native origins. A Choultry court and the Court of Admiralty were instituted to deliver justice. 

St. Mary's Church (1678 & consecrated 1680)

The oldest surviving Anglican Church outside England was built inside the fort. The credit for the church building goes to  Streynsham Master (1640 - 1724) who was in the services of the East India Company at Surat, prior to his arrival in Madras. He proposed a proper church to be built here, now, due to the growing number of British staff that lived here. Interestingly St. Mary's church is also the oldest Anglican church in Asia. 

The first constabulary, hospitals, mint and other civic amenities were created within the fort. The city was surveyed and a map was prepared in 1710.

FORT MUSEUM 

Is a small but impressive building inside the fort exhibiting~ cutlery, coins, metals, arms, sculptures and a rich collection of paintings.

SECRETARIAT 

A representation of the earlier Government House at Fort St George CHENNAI

Even today, Fort St. George plays an important role. It is home to the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly and the office of the Chief Minister

ZERO POINT BRIDGE 

This Zero point Milestone on the Parktown railway overhead bridge is the marker to calculate distance on 3 major roads starting from Chennai.

Chennai city's Zero point milestone

NH-45 going south to Trichy
NH-4 heading westwards to Bangalore and the coastal road of NH-5 that goes upward to Kolkata.

 

CHENNAI CENTRAL RLY STN 1873 

Built in Romanesque style of architecture by the British in 1873 it is the main railway terminus and hub for long distance trains to Chennai~ Station code (MAS). The stations has now been modernized with escalators and lifts to & from the metro making commuting easy.

George Harding, the chief architect of this building is also credited to designing the Ripon Building (see below). Read more about Chennai Central

Ripon Building 1913 or Greater Chennai Corporation bldg 

Ripon building or Greater Chennai Corporation house
 

During the governorship of Elihu Yale, after whom the World-famous Yale University is named, the Corporation of Madras, the first of its kind was inaugurated in 1688. 

A marble placard about Elihu Yale, Governor of Fort St.George

Ripon Building is an extravagantly outlandish structure built in Neo-classical style. Named after the then Governor-General Lord Ripon, who is considered as the initiator of local self-government. The building is still used for the same purpose by the Greater Chennai Corporation.

Victoria public hall 1890 

This red brick structure is located in the same precincts as Ripon building, and is a perfect example of Indo-Saraconic British architecture. It served as the Town hall and sometimes as a theatre during the British. Plans are presently underway to converting it into a museum and also have a sound & light show.. which will be interesting. Read more about Victoria public hall

 

Egmore railway station

After Chennai Central, Egmore Is the other railway station for long distance trains to and from Chennai. This too is a beautiful building in grand Gothic style. Read more

Tip~ If you started late and doing this tour by foot 👣, you may wind up for the day. Egmore is connected by bus, cabs, autos to almost all places in Chennai

Hungry 😋?

Right opposite the Egmore station is Vasantha Bhavan for reasonable and delicious food. They also have good quality sweets, I tried moti chur laddus 100gm (2 pcs) for 63rs, really good!

A simple but delicious meal of sambar rice and lemon juice

 

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