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A Journey across India: The call to Adventure

An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar

Signs of the AdilShahi muslim ruler in GOA: A historical trail of pre-Portuguese GOA

 The Adil Shahis of Bijapur or the Bijapur Sultanate as it was known held sway over most of the Deccan region, and they were a major hurdle for the Portuguese conquerors in establishing their stronghold in Goa.


Safa masjid, Ponda 

The mosque was destroyed by the Portuguese, but reconstructed and rebuilt again with the help of ASI (Archaeological survey of India). 

 



Extent of the Bijapur Sultanate - image courtesy public domain

There was also a sizable muslim population in Goa then, and Albuquerque may have very well underestimated their loyalty to the Adil Shahs. They kept Adil Shah apprised of their every move, that Afonso de Albuquerque's 1st conquest of Goa in Feb of 1510, with the help of a privateer named Timoji, led to a complete disaster so far.


Adil Shah's decline in Goa 

Eventually, Albuquerque got to know of the plot. He came back with a better plan than before. It is said that he spilled tons of spice and copper on the streets of Goa to slow down the enemy's horses and it was a major success to begin with. The Portuguese finally set foot in Goa on 25/ Nov 1510.


Gate of Adil Shah's palace~ a sign of Adil Shah's defeat at the hands of the Portuguese 

All that is left of Adil Shah's palace is this gate. It is located near the Viceroy's gate in Old Goa. It was marauded by the Portuguese as Adil Shah ran for their life.

The gate of Adil Shah's palace at Old Goa
The gate of Adil Shah's palace at Old Goa

 

Infuriated by the level of deception, Albuquerque lost no time in ordering Timoji to execute all the muslims that lived *within the walls of the city. 3000 Musselmans were killed and a remaining 2000 got drowned while trying to escape. The women from Adil Shah's harem were taken as maids-in-waiting for the Queen of Portugal, Maria of Aragon.


*Old Goa was the only portion of Goa, referred to as Goa at the time. 


The defeat of the Adil Shah's at the hands of the Portuguese was a big blow to their assets and dignity. All along they had maintained a lucrative trade of getting Persian and Arabian horses for their own cavalry, as well as selling them to other kings and princes. Now, they had lost control of this trade route which was their main source of state income. 

 

Despite all that Ismail Adil Shah made another attempt to recapture Goa, but failed as the Portuguese had fortified the city's defences considerably. 


About Ismail Adil Shah 

Ismail Adil Shah is the son of Yusuf Adil Shah who founded the Bijapur Sultanate. Yusuf died in 1509 while fighting the Vijayanagara king Krishnadeva Raya. Interestingly, Ismail Adil Shah's mother Bibiji Khanum was Mukund Rao of Indapur, a Maratha warrior's daughter.

Ismail was quite young when he took over the reigns of the Sultanate after his father, hence Kamal Khan, a regent to the throne acted on his behalf. It was during this period that the Portuguese captured Goa in 1510. The ambitious Kamal Khan tried to overthrow the young Ismail, but was killed instead as arranged by Ismail's mother Bibiji Khanum.


What happened to the Adil Shahs (Bijapur Sultanate) after the Portuguese conquest of GOA? 

What followed next was The Battle of Raichur in 1520 between The Vijayanagara empire and the Adil Shahs (Bijapur Sultanate).

  

Adil Shah's Palace (Old Secretariat building), Panaji 

Located on the banks of the Mandovi, Adil Shah's Palace-fortress is one of the oldest surviving buildings in Panjim. It was built by Yusuf Adil Shah around the 1500s. 

The victorious Portuguese took control of the building, and it served as a guest house for Governor generals who arrived by sea. During the time of The Goa Inquisition, it was used as the Palace of the Inquisition. Note the changes made by the Portuguese, like the coat of arms carved in stone above the entrance.

 


Thereafter, It was also witness to Goa's struggle for Freedom from Portuguese rule. 

Post Goa's liberation on 16th Dec 1961, it initially served as the Secretariat and currently houses the Goa State Museum.


Tip- The Goa State Museum was previously at the State library building at Patto, Panjim.

 

Suggested read~ The spread of Christianity in Goa : 1510 to 1961


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