The town of AVUDAIYARKOIL is oddly located, hard to reach and off the usual tourist/ pilgrimage circuit. The folks at my hotel in Karaikudi mentioned something about the incredible sculptures and carvings of AVUDAIYAR KOIL ('koil' means temple), so I decided to make this trip on my own.
Tip- If you are a first time traveler to this place, navigating your way through the Tamilnadu hinterland is a challenge if you do not speak Tamil and twice that where the bus frequency is low. Having your own vehicle in this case can be a blessing.
How to reach AVUDAIYARKOIL
If you are coming from Chennai/ Thanjavur route (southward) then head towards Pudukkottai. From here you can get a regular bus for AVUDAIYARKOIL. Bus frequency is not that great and is likely to get crowded during peak hours. Buses are also available from KARAIKUDI.
An hour's bus ride from Karaikudi, finally got me to the disorderly village of AVUDAIYARKOIL. The temple was undergoing renovations, so after stepping over sand and bricks I looked squarely into the rather dark uninviting interiors for the carvings that I hoped would transport me back in time.
.... And here was this lady all adorned and sporting an exaggerated hairdo.
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| sculpture of fully adorned lady wearing an elaborate hairstyle |
Tip- There are Hindi/ English/ Tamil speaking guides available here for a nominal fee. It is advisable to hire one as many carvings are in dark corners and places, that one would otherwise miss
The temple is called Tirupperunthurai or Athmanathaswamy koil, and is dedicated to SHIVA as Athmanathar ie. the formless one. The pedestal (AVUDAIYAR) is therefore void of the shivling. So too the nandi that is missing in this temple. "What is that so?" I asked my guide. "Shiva is a Universal force, a Universal energy" he began "and to an expert who has mastered this deep significance; no longer needs a lingam or idol to denote this truth. Hence this temple has none." Shiva's consort Yogambal is also worshipped without any form.
Brahma, is the Ultimate Supreme truth that has no form, but for a novice this reality may take awhile to grasp, hence idols help us focus.
Oh how I wish the place was well-lit! Even though the deity may be formless; the temple hall was literally a museum of elaborate and mind-boggling carvings.
Pillars carved out to display border patterns of the renowned Kanjeevaram sarees of Kanchipuram.
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| Carvings displaying border patterns of the famed Kanjeevaram sarees of Kanchipuram- Athmanathaswamy koil, Avudaiyarkoil |
This astounding temple and it's carvings owes credit to Manickkavacakar a 9th century Tamil poet-saint who served at the court of Varagunavarman II the Pandyan king. A sculpture of Manikkavacakar can be seen here.
A remarkable feature of this temple is this part of the ceiling that displays iron rods, rafters and even nails all carved out of granite.
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| A portion of ceiling that displays iron rods, rafters and even nails all carved out of granite- Athmanathaswamy koil, Avudaiyarkoil |
A sculpted pillar of a woman with elaborate braided hair riding a horse or perhaps half woman-horse creature.
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A sculpted pillar of a woman with elaborately braided hair riding a horse or is it a half woman-horse creature, Avudaiyarkoil temple
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What is astonishing is the fact that these sculptures give one a sense of fashion and style at the time.
Another sculpted pillar with an interesting story perhaps.
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| An interesting carving at the temple of Avudaiyarkoil, Tamilnadu |
Many carvings speak of people and a lifestyle that existed at the time; like this life-size sculpture of a merchant with a purse around his waist.
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A life-size sculpture of a merchant with a purse around his waist- Avudaiyarkoil temple, Tamil Nadu
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In all of the carvings the sense of proportion and minute detailing is hard to miss, like the folds and pleats of a fabric or the beads of a necklace.
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A 9th century Dravidian sculpture of a wealthy man. Note the minute detailing like the folds and pleats of the fabric as well as ornamentations around the waist- Avudaiyarkoil temple Tamil Nadu
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If you found these sculptures fascinating do leave a comment below and tell us what you think. Do share this blog with someone who may enjoy reading it. Thanks 🙏
Next blog ~ Madurai, Rameshwaram and Dhanushkodi 2 days trip
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