An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar...
Bombay (Mumbai) Gothic city : Victorian Gothic style architectural buildings from the British era
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South Mumbai is a treasure trove of exotic Victorian Gothic buildings from the British era which not only stand to this day, but are active and function as normally. Here is a list of few important stately buildings to look out for.
1) Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj terminus (VT station)
CSMT, previously known as Victoria Terminus, is a masterpiece of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture from the British era and an iconic edifice that symbolises Bombay (Mumbai) as a Gothic city.
F.W.Stevens, a British architect and the brainchild behind this project, designed this building by infusing traditional western with Indian elements to make it unique and an endearing piece of art. Construction of the building began in 1878, and took 10 years before it was ready to commemorate for Queen Victoria's golden jubilee.
Besides being a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is fully functional, and one of the busiest railway stations servicing both suburban traffic as well as inbound and outbound trains. The building is protected and maintained by Indian Railways and on special days it is illuminated, similar to Mysore palace.
Picture illustration of CSMT (V.T. Terminus)
1- The building is C shaped with 2 wings extending from the central structure, and is constructed with the use of sandstone and limestone.
CST Mumbai is a Victorian Gothic building which is C shaped with 2 wings extending from the central structure.
What stands out is it's Victorian Gothic style of architecture. Look carefully and you will notice various symbols and decoration elements from the colonial British era.
Notice The statue of Progress which stands on the very top of the central dome.
2- The entrance gates are flanked by 2 columns which are crowned with lion (left) - signifies the U.K. and tiger (right) - signifies India.
Entrance of CST Mumbai terminus. The lion (left) - signifies Britain. and tiger (right) - signifies India
4- The towers and spires are reminiscent of European castles.
The towers and spires of Mumbai CST are reminiscent of European castles
4- The doors and windows are made of Burma wood and look remarkable.
The doors and windows in Burma wood look remarkable, CSMT Mumbai (VT stn)
5- Throughout the exterior, it's easy to see the pointed arches of doors and windows typical of Gothic style architecture. Also worth noticing is the use of dramatic gargoyles.
Note the Gothic features of Mumbai CST ~ pointed arches of doors and windows and dramatic use of gargoyles
6- The interiors look just as lavish. (See video below). Dramatic Italian columns and flooring. The ribbed and vaulted ceiling is again typical of Gothic style. There are beautiful stained glass windows and decoration elements.
2) Brihanmumbai Municipal corporation
BMC Is yet another iconic UNESCO World Heritage masterpiece built by FW Stevens. the same architecture as that of CST Mumbai.
Located right across CSMT, this building was constructed in the Dec of 1894 much later. Here too it flaunts Gothic Revival style of architecture that is so imposing and its golden-biege basalt exterior is eye-catching. It houses the Municipal corporation of Greater Mumbai
3) GPO General Post Office
Right behind CST Mumbai is the GPO (General Post Office) building in typical Indo-Saracenic style of architecture. However, at the present time (May '22) it was shrouded due to restoration work in progress. I had a flashback then of my recent visit to Kolkata where I was stunned by the sheer elegance of the Kolkata GPO.
4) Blackie House
Right across the GPO (General Post Office) is an incredibly beautiful but badly maintained building named Blackie House. Apparently Blackie and Sons was a publishing house from Scotland and London who set up their India branch in Bombay around 1926.
Blackie house, Fort Mumbai was once the office of Blackie and Sons, a publishing house from Scotland and London
The building is black in color and has such character, if you notice the *turrets that are normally seen in English castles.
• Turret - a small tower projecting vertically from the wall. Turrets were mainly used in Medieval castles and forts as a defence fortification.
5) Asiatic society of Mumbai town hall
Built in the Neo-classical style of architecture that was prominent in Europe during the mid-18th century, the Asiatic society of Mumbai was a system created by the British and founded by James Mackintosh who was a distinguished important figure in England around the 1800s.
The idea was to regulate the imparting of knowledge related to India and the Orient. It thus holds a vast range of books on diverse subjects, periodicals, computerization, manuscripts, coins and relics and is now the state central library and museum.
6) Gateway of India, Mumbai
The Gateway of India, Mumbai
Is an iconic monument that signifies Mumbai, and was erected to commemorate the landing of King-Emperor George V in 1911. The arch monument situated by the Arabian sea is the most visited attraction as scores of tourists can be seen taking pics and generally having a good time.;The Taj Mahal hotel is located just beside the monument.
There are regular ferry boats excursions from here to Elephanta caves island.
Besides there are other ferry boats that sail to the coastal town of Alibag at the other end.
Where to stay in South Mumbai ?
Incase you wish to tour places in South Mumbai, mentioned in this blog there are plenty of expensive and mid-range hotels in the area.
If you are looking for a budget option, my best bet is The Salvation army hostel which is another old-world charm building from the British era, situated right behind The Taj Mahal hotel (old wing building).
Salvation army hostel, Apollo Bunder Mumbai. Rs.500/ bunk bed per night, incl GST and breakfast
Rate- 500 RS/ night, bunk bed incl GST and breakfast.
Tip- Weekends are usually non-working days and hence a great way to spend 2/ 3 days around this area to cover these buildings.
Incase you wish to cover South Mumbai completely allow a week atleast.
A leisurely walk from Apollo Bunder to Kala ghoda will take you past some more amazing jewels from the British period. One amongst these is The Army and Navy building.
Army and Navy building Mumbai is presently occupied by Tata group of companies
It's unmistakable Gothic style owes credit to FW Stevens, the same prolific architect of CST Mumbai and BMC head office.
The building was set up in 1891 and served as a store and services outlet for British army and navy personnel. It is presently occupied by Tata group of companies.
It's next door neighbor is the David Sassoon library and Reading Room. David Sassoon, was a Jew from Iraq and a well-known philanthropist. It was he who built this building in 1870, and the cost for its construction was borne both by David Sassoon and the Bombay Presidency.
David Sassoon library (left), Army and Navy building (right)- Mumbai heritage buildings
And further down is the Cowasji Jehangir hall. This too is a heritage building funded by an Indian namely Sir Cowasji Jehangir and two others, Sir James Sassoon and Sir Currimbuoy Ibrahim.
Sir Cowasji Jehangir hall (Elphinston college), Mumbai- heritage building
Tip- Take a break from time to time. There are a myriad food options that one can explore in the area, and a great way to refuel.
Luscious Mango falooda
8) Bombay /Mumbai High court
Diagonally opposite Kala ghoda circle is the Bombay High court. Said to be one of the oldest high courts in the country, it was set up in 1862. The Gothic Revival style of architecture is stunning, but sadly I would imagine it's out of bounds for tourists.
9) Mumbai University
Previously known as Bombay University it was established on 18 July 1857 and is one the the largest Universities worldwide.
But I was here to simply admire the beauty of this building, and despite being denied entry within the premises, I must admit a glimpse of the building from outside the gates was still worthwhile.
Mumbai University heritage building
10) Flora fountain
Is an ornamental fountain that was built in 1874 in the Neo Classical and Gothic Revival style of architecture, and is an endearing piece of the city heritage. The material used for its construction is a type of limestone called Portland stone that was in fact imported from the Isle of Portland in (Dorset ) England.
Flora Fountain, Mumbai
Located right beside Hutatma chowk, it stands at a busy intersection at the heart of South Mumbai's Fort area.
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