Start the day early, pack some snacks/ lunch/ water, old newspapers/ small mat, camera, drop in a change of clothes~ this is going to be a long day of spirituality, history, mystery and nature at best.
 |
| Day trip from Mysore (a blog) |
SOMNATHPURA KESAVA TEMPLE
The Somnathpura Kesava temple is often ignored from the usual tourist circuit, as most tourists and tour operators cram far too many places already in a 1 - 2 day Mysore trip.
Not to be confused with the Chennakesava temple at Belur (also in Karnataka), the temple at Somnathpura dates back to 1258 CE. Keshava or Vishnu is the presiding deity and the temple's architecture is on par with other Hoysala temples of this region.
 |
| Star-shaped platform on which rests the temple, Somnathpur kesava temple - Mysore |
Especially noteworthy is the star-shaped elevation on which the temple stands and the beautiful black granite has an immediate cooling effect. I took a long time walking around and within the temple admiring all the intricate carvings. A great deal of damage done to this temple was restored by the Vijayanagara rulers during the 16th century. No worship is performed here as the idol of Kesava is missing.
Talakādu - The legend of the sandy river
There are some fantastic stories with regards to the origin of this place, but my favorite is 'The Curse of Talakādu'. When my curiosity knew no bounds, I had it included into my itinerary.
After asking directions with some people, I entered a stark, dusty hamlet, and was immediately greeted by a kannada-speaking guide (guide charge-200 rs can differ with# of pax). And although I wondered how it would turn out given the fact that I don't speak kannada it was still an excellent decision.
Putting some effort in hindi, he narrated how this place is named after two brothers Tala and kādu. Several dynasties, like the Cholas in the 11th century and later the Hoysalas and Vijaynagara kings ruled here.
 |
| A day of exploration : temples of Talakādu, Mysore |
The Curse of Talakādu
Is interestingly centred around the present Mysore Wodeyar royals. When Rani Alamelamma, the second wife of a Vijayanagara king got to know that her husband was about to die, she left Srirangapattanam (nearby town) in haste to be beside him at Talakādu.
With great faith she entrusted the kingdom and her jewels to Raja Wodeyar of Mysore for safekeeping until she returned. But being secretly desirous of possessing the jewels himself, he betrayed the rani (queen).
On knowing that Raja Wodeyar was on his way to attack her for the kingdom and jewels, Rani Alamelamma threw the jewels in the Cauvery which flowed at Talakādu, and later drowned herself. Before doing so she uttered a curse ~ 'Let Talakādu turn to sand, Mālangi become a whirlpool and Mysore Rajas never beget a rightful heir'.
While scholars have debated the authenticity of this story, the mystery of Wodeyar rulers' struggle in finding a true rightful heir is baffling indeed.
The mysterious temples of Talakādu
My guide stated that there were over 30 temples and many lay still buried in the sand. Of the ones unearthed are the 5 prominent Shiva temples ~ Pathaleshwara, Maruleshwara, Arkeshwara, Vaidyanatheshwara and Mallikarjuna.
It was a hot day, after sipping some water I walked along a longish ramp to visit the first temple, as I could see traces of ongoing excavation around to unearth some other temples. For some reason the place had such a positive vibe and I felt so relaxed as we explored other temples.
 |
| 3D style carving on an ancient Indian temple, Talakādu Mysore |
Note the 3D style of carving, said my guide. Indeed! The mind-boggling details and beauty of the carvings really made my day worth it.
Coracle ride
The Kaveri river at Talakādu is right opposite the temple complex. At first it resembled a weekend beach retreat, with food and cold drink stalls, and picnickers having a good time. There is ample space around where you can sit and enjoy a nice picnic lunch, so I bought a cold drink and did just that.
 |
| A coracle ride on the Kaveri river at South India |
Later I could see coracle rides and the kid in me began jumping in glee. I joined a group in one of the coracles and went deeper into the river. Full points for the experience!
Shivanasamudra falls
The road leading towards Shivanasamudra itself is a treat for the eyes. But at some point the bus stopped and from there I had a few more kms before reaching the falls and no means of transport to get there.
Frustrated, I walked a bit when I noticed a refreshing stream, so I decided to just relax in the clear water in case nothing worked out.
I gave it another try, and this time I saw a policeman on his bike. I hailed without a care in the world, and our good man not only gave me a lift all the way to Shivanasamudram waterfalls, but offered me chai (tea) and snacks. Such a kind soul, I remember meeting such angels in disguise during my 15 day Mumbai to Goa coastal adventure.
 |
| Shivanasamudra waterfalls in the background, Mysore |
It is already evening and time to get back to Mysore.
Conclusion
1) The power of knowing the local language, as you travel into the hinterlands further away from big cities like Bangalore and Mysore~ just cannot be underestimated. If you love history and culture, it's a good idea to equip yourself with at least a basic understanding of kannada, since a great deal of information can be got from locals.
2) Public transport is less frequent in such places. Try to hire a car/ engage a bike for day trips to explore better.
Your comments help. Do Subscribe. Bye for now!
Comments
Post a Comment