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An easy, practical and in-sequence itinerary planner I have travelled the length and breadth of India, and am truly proud of its rich and varied heritage. I am amazed by the tradition and values, the people, festivals, celebrations and the changing landscape. Have you wondered if it's possible to travel across India completely? Most foreigners arriving in India, land in Delhi and then travel the Golden Triangle route first- which is a good decision incase you have limited time at hand and want to make the most of it. The Golden Triangle- Delhi, Agra and Jaipur includes the much hyped Taj Mahal which invariably is part of a tourist's bucket list. This blog on the other hand- is a sequential strategy and detailed 'been there done that' itinerary plan starting from Mumbai. I am sure as we go through this Journey you will understand India better. My experiences are based from the perspective of a - digital nomad, budget backpacker and from a local standpoint. Each Itinerar...

The mysterious temple of LEPAKSHI : Did giants really exist?

Previous blog~ Spooky tales night at Nandi hills

 

How to reach LEPAKSHI

Bangalore to Lepakshi is roughly 120km/ 2.30 hrs and the road condition is excellent. You will drive past Chikballapur, and until the (Karnataka & Andhra Pradesh) border town of Bagepalli. Cross the highway at T B Cross, and you are now in Andhra Pradesh.

Now take the road going towards Hindupur. Enjoy another 12 km drive on the quiet and scenic road, and you will find LEPAKSHI to your left. BINGO! 


Public transport from Bangalore to Lepakshi

From Majestic/ Devanahalli/ Chikkaballapur, Karnataka buses are available till Bagepalli. Thereafter cross the road, walk a few 100meters into AP and take AP bus going to Hindupur. Almost all buses go from here to Hindupur. Ask to be dropped at LEPAKSHI. 

Tip~ If using public transport, then it's a good idea to stay overnight at Hindupur. This will give you an early start for Gandhikota the next day. Also it's less tiring.

Veerabhadra temple, LEPAKSHI  Andhra Pradesh | mysterious temples
Veerabhadra temple, LEPAKSHI  Andhra Pradesh | mysterious temples

Did giants walk this earth? 

The temple at LEPAKSHI is said to have been built during the period of the Vijayanagara Empire (1336–1646). But here's what makes it baffling. While speaking to a local guide, he stated what archaeologists talk about is the newer temple which is the stone wall boundary and within. The older temple was mostly washed away possibly by floods and eons of natural calamities. 


What is left of the old temple is a giant standalone Nandi bull. At 15' tall & 27'' long it is the largest nandi in the world. "So where is the Linga that should be with the Nandi", I asked our guide.

The giant Nandi bull of LEPAKSHI
The giant Nandi bull of LEPAKSHI

So, a Lingam is always situated behind the Nandi bull in a Shiva temple. But in this case he stated the Linga stands 500 meters away within the temple wall. Moreover, it is a 12' tall Nagalingam similar in size to the giant Nandi bull. It's called Naga as it is protected by 7 headed overhead naga.


So why is this baffling? 

Because centuries ago, worshippers used to place the thumb & index finger across the horns of Nandi bull, and then looked at Lingam through the gap of the palm. "That was the Treta Yuga", said my guide. "People during Treta Yuga stood at 28-30 ft tall."

"Let me show you something more interesting" he said, leading me to a giant foot impression 2.5' large. Surely one can see that only a gigantic person at least 28-30 ft tall can have a foot this size. 

2.5' giant foot impression at LEPAKSHI temple
2.5' giant foot impression at LEPAKSHI temple


The new temple complex of LEPAKSHI

Veerabhadra is lord Shiva in his fiercest form. When we entered the temple a puja was being performed. The temple priest asked my name, he then recited a mantra using my name.  There are aartis held here morning and evening.

The new Veerabhadra temple is built in classic Vijayanagara style of architecture. There are many remarkable things of interest that got my attention, like :

The mural of Veerabhadra on the ceiling

Is painted with natural pigments and looks stunning to this day.

Tip~ photography is not permitted inside the sanctum sanctorum of the temple.


The hanging pillars  :A true piece of engineering carved in stone

Pillar carvings of Brahma & Vishnu, Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
Pillar carvings of Brahma & Vishnu, Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

At the bottom of the pillars there is a gap, meaning the pillars do not touch the ground and one can pull across a newspaper or fabric from one end to another.  There is a story about a British engineer (during British rule) who tried to uncover the mystery of what supports the columns, but was unable to. 


A Ganesha monolith 

A Ganesha monolith at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
A Ganesha monolith at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

As explained by our guide the older temple sculptures of Terta Yuga were monoliths ie. sculpted out of a single rock.

A Ganesha monolith at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
A Ganesha monolith at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

 

Natya mandapam (dance hall)

an intricately carved dancer in stone
an intricately carved dancer in stone

The sculpted pillars (columns) of a natya mandap or dance hall. Just standing here takes you back in time during the days of the Vijayanagara kings who were patrons of the art.


Kalyana Mandapa

Open-air Kalyana Mandapa ie. marriage hall at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
Open-air Kalyana Mandapa ie. marriage hall at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

This open air Shiva-Parvati marriage hall is grand and a feast of the senses. A shadow of cloud and spray of drizzle made the experience rather ominous.

Sculptures depicting war scenes, yakshas and mythical creatures

A war scene depicted on a column at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
A war scene depicted on a column at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

These are just a few images, but there is a mind-boggling variety of sculptures to keep you engaged for at least 2 hrs. Besides there are inscriptions in kannada that document the history of this temple.

Yallis, mythical creatures depicted at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI
Yallis, mythical creatures depicted at Veerabhadra temple LEPAKSHI

Tip~ hiring a guide will be helpful in making your tour productive. Guides however are fluent in Telugu, also maybe kannada, and manage a little Hindi.


Back to~ Bangalore escapades : living and working in Bangalore


Next blog~ Gandikota canyon and Belum caves : Road-trip from Bangalore



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